Wood stove issues

[Kristi Lutes]

We are having some problems with our Blaze King Ashford 30. We have about 18’ of single wall pipe and then double wall out the ceiling to outside. We have already replaced the interior pipe once in 3 years due to small holes in the pipe. I’m assuming this is from creosote build up and the hard chimney brush that was used to clean it. We try to clean the pipe twice a year if possible. We burn as hot as we possible can to get the creosote to burn but it doesn’t seem to do much. The pipe is now making a sizzling sound right where it connects to the stove. There doesn’t seem to be very good draw anymore. There is also drippings of creosote coming outside of the interior pipe. We have only been burning 13-14% moisture wood for about a month. What the heck are we doing wrong? Thanks!!!

 

[al-k]

welcome to the site, I'm just taking a guess here but I would say you need a new converter. How old is the stove?

 

[Kristi Lutes]

welcome to the site, I'm just taking a guess here but I would say you need a new converter. How old is the stove?

It’s only 4-5 years old.

 

[Husky Man]

We are having some problems with our Blaze King Ashford 30. We have about 18’ of single wall pipe and then double wall out the ceiling to outside. We have already replaced the interior pipe once in 3 years due to small holes in the pipe. I’m assuming this is from creosote build up and the hard chimney brush that was used to clean it. We try to clean the pipe twice a year if possible. We burn as hot as we possible can to get the creosote to burn but it doesn’t seem to do much. The pipe is now making a sizzling sound right where it connects to the stove. There doesn’t seem to be very good draw anymore. There is also drippings of creosote coming outside of the interior pipe. We have only been burning 13-14% moisture wood for about a month. What the heck are we doing wrong? Thanks!!!

Hi Kristi, I’m afraid I can’t answer your question, but I would like to Welcome you to the AS forums

I Miss “The Inland Empire”, I’m a truck driver and have spent about 20 years delivering to your area, from Yakima to CDA and Sand Point, Omak to Lewiston seen most of it, Beautiful, and FRIENDLY area.

Welcome to AS, I can’t Help You, but I’m sure someone here can, there’s a Great Bunch here

Doug

 

[Kristi Lutes]

Thanks! We love it here. Born and raised North Idaho!!

 

[Husky Man]

You don’t happen to know Casey and Lisa Schorzman, in Post Falls do you?

old Friends of my Wife, I kinda Like Em’ too


Doug

 

[Kristi Lutes]

I used to work with Lisa at the hospital! She’s great!!

 

[Husky Man]

Small World, even more Surprising is that you ADMITTED to knowing Lisa

They are Good People, if you talk to Lisa, tell her “Sand Lake SUCKS “ She WILL KNOW who you’ve been talking to without asking

Doug

 

[Sandhill Crane]

There is also drippings of creosote coming outside of the interior pipe. We have only been burning 13-14% moisture wood for about a month. What the heck are we doing wrong? Thanks!!!

Check the single wall pipe connections above the stove. Female ends should be up, male ends down. Creosote should run down... inside... the pipe at the joint connections, and not escape to the outside of the pipe. Creosote outside the pipe is a obviously a fire hazard.

As far as the rest of it, not really sure.
If your house is well sealed, it could be a draft issue. Some stove have outside air supply kits available for combustion in well sealed homes, such as our Vermont Casting Defiant. Use of a magnetic temp gauge 12" above the stove on the flue pipe will give an indication of optimal burn and possibly what may be going on.

Side Note: These are just some thoughts, I'm not a professional installer or/and NOT qualified to give advice.

 

[moresnow]

As recommended elsewhere you need to give serious consideration to changing out the single wall connector pipe to double wall. 18' of single wall is a loooong stretch to keep warm enough to prevent condensate from forming. Even running a old school stove with extremely hot exhaust! The extremely low temp exhaust output of a the efficient BK stove running low and slow just compounds the effect. Give your user manual a perusal. It is also available to read on the BK website. Double wall is noted in it. You will notice less buildup inside the double wall. I did the same thing as you when I went to the BK. Definitely helped installing the double wall. I like using the telescoping double wall purchased online from Menards. They will ship directly to your home. Reasonable.

https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...8-black-stove-pipe/dsp6tl/p-1444453726558.htm

Also. Have you serviced/cleaned the face and rear of your combustor recently? Easy process. Guessing you are predominantly burning softwood? Fly ash accumulation/plugging on the face of my combustor can cause issues from softwood burned at a high airflow rate. At 4 or 5 years I am guessing the combustor may even benefit from a removal and cleaning. Worth researching that process if you have not yet.

 

[Patrick62]

Two things come to mind here, and the first one has already been mentioned. Turn the pipe around, then the stuff will flow inside the pipe.
18 feet is a LONG run, and I would have suggested using a 8 inch pipe if you are not already doing that. Reduce the boundry layer with larger pipe, better flow.

I under stand the insulated pipe idea, but on the other hand 18' of pipe will be radiating heat into the house...

One more aspect to consider, a long pipe like that will have a significant length of expansion, probably a 3/4 of a inch !! a slip joint will be necessary somewhere in the system

 

[Kristi Lutes]

We found the issue. Well, we think anyway. Creosote is leaking from the ceiling box where the interior pipe comes inside. We are pretty sure it is installed correctly. Thoughts ??

 

[Mad Professor]

Something is not right at your through ceiling connector if you have creosote coming out. Piping connection upside down or or a hole?

I might consider replacing the 18' run with double wall with stainless interior, or using stainless 304 chimney liner for the run. You can get the 304 liner with a lifetime warranty .

https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/black-stove-pipes/double-wall-black-stove-pipe

https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c.../304l-stainless-steel-rigid-chimney-liner.php

For the latter you can get snap on 24" sections of insulation and could insulate near the ceiling where the gases will start to cool. Add insulation sections as needed.

Insulating the pipe is going to help with your draft problem and creosote build up.

One more thought on draft. If you have a chimney cap the steel mesh can build up creosote and kill your draft.

 

[moresnow]

That is not a familiar pipe install for me. Almost looks like a short section of single wall inserted upside down (male end up) up into your chimney pipe adapter. Then it appears to have a finishing band mounted above that connection. If I am correct you will always have leakage at this joint. Not to mention it would be completely incorrect! Almost looks like the installer was trying to extend your chimney pipe adapter? Really questionable making a call from a few pics but you absolutely should not have any leakage as shown. Period. Call a pro. This should be addressed. Good luck.

 

[brenndatomu]

There is also drippings of creosote coming outside of the interior pipe. We have only been burning 13-14% moisture wood for about a month. What the heck are we doing wrong? Thanks!!!

How do you test it? Externally?
It should be re-split and tested on the fresh split face, with wood at room temp.
The wood almost has to be too wet to make that much creosote...can't see any way 13-14% MC could possibility 'sote up that bad...

 

[TRTermite]

Check the single wall pipe connections above the stove. Female ends should be up, male ends down. Creosote should run down... inside... the pipe at the joint connections, and not escape to the outside of the pipe. Creosote outside the pipe is a obviously a fire hazard.

Sandhill Crane is on target -- If you look at the connection you need to imagine the air current. If spiggot/male end is up air will be pulled/siphoned/sucked upward and compromise the chimney draft
If spiggot/male is down then air current has to do a 180 degree turn to get inside the chimney and the hot air (Energized air) rises not go down so the 180 degree isn't likely to happen. When the chimney draft is compromised it cools the smoke letting te creosote form ....
My dad had a northern Leader wood/coal furnace and the thimble would not accept the male end so he insisted I was wrong (a father son thing) I finally just crimped the heck out of it and reversed the pipe direction and for the record Selkirk insulated pipe adapter from stove to their insulated pipe has the male pointing down. My Royale wood/coal furnace has 2-1/2 sections before the insulated pipe and works great even on green wood but I have to burn it hot after a good bed of coals and yes it will creosote after a while ..
I have been burning wood all my life and YUP I have learned a lot through 60 years of experience.

 

[Highbeam]

4-5 years of full time use can easily exceed the expected 10,000 hour life cycle of a catalyst. I swap mine after it fails approximately every 3 years. If you only use the stove occasionally, it can last many years. The key is 10,000 hours.

18 feet of single wall is too much for any stove. My manual for the NC30 noncat stove says max run is just 10 feet of single wall and that's what I have. You need to swap that BK to double wall for many reasons. The single wall strips so much heat from the exhaust that even 10% moisture wood will be able to condense and cause goo as you see.

When you upgrade to double wall, you can install it properly to create a dripless system that will keep any liquids inside the chimney. All of my sections of duravent class A and double wall include a sticker that says which way to point up.

Softwood is great in the BKs. This is a Washington state company with roots in softwood country.

 

[Marshy]

We found the issue. Well, we think anyway. Creosote is leaking from the ceiling box where the interior pipe comes inside. We are pretty sure it is installed correctly. Thoughts ??

You are having this issue because the low exhaust gas temperatures are causing the gases to condense. The issue is being realized because you have a female connector in your pipe facing down which is not good install practice. The best recommendation is to get double wall interior pipe and replace the single wall, and fix the female connector that is facing down.

I have fought a similar battle with my Blaze King regarding condensing flue gases and the only solution is to increase your flue temperatures. Easiest way for you to do this is use insulated interior pipe. Do not increase the pipe to 8" as one suggested. Follow all of the recommendations within your manual regarding chimney installation as if they are requirements, not recommendations. Ensure you have a proper cap on your chimney pipe to eliminate water entry also.

I know you joined another forum and have posted the same concern. I made a reply and haven't heard from you (same user name). My question was, what is the moisture of your fuel?

Remember, draft is a function of flue gas temperature. The hotter the flue gas can exit the chimney the more buoyant the air is and will therefore have a stronger draft.

 

[Marshy]

Sorry, I must of missed where you stated 13-14% moisture. Another member made and excellent point, same point I made on the other forum. Proper moisture meter testing is essential. The wood should be at room temp (been inside for 24hrs), make a fresh split through the thickest section, then test in the middle (between the cut ends) on the fresh split face.

Please let us know if that is the same way you test your fuel and if not, test that way and let us know your results.

 

[TRTermite]

How do you test it? Externally?
It should be re-split and tested on the fresh split face, with wood at room temp.
The wood almost has to be too wet to make that much creosote...can't see any way 13-14% MC could possibility 'sote up that bad...

when my dad had his stove pipe reversed (wrong) it would hardly burn wadded up newspaper.. Worked great when the pipe was installed correctly.