wtf moment

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Here's an odd one, or I thought it was.

So I bought an 84 drive link 3/8 stihl RS chain, as you do, and it wont sharpen with any 7/32 or 13/64 file.

If I use any of the afore mentioned files they just rub against the tooth and dont make any noise. It feels smooth, like there is not friction at all and the tooth stays the same. They are not filing. It doesnt matter how new the files are, and I know they work from using them on other chains.

But, if I switch to an oregon 3/16 file it works fine! Of course I have to spend a little more time on each tooth but it works just like normal. File makes proper noise, feels right, shavings are created and tooth gets smaller.
Switch back to the "proper" files, nothing.

Anyone else had this?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Stihl chains are usually a little harder to file but I've had great results with the SaveEdge files. Are you sure no one sharpened it with a grinder and overheated the cutters? Any sign of bluing on the cutters? The 3/16 file may work because you're taking a smaller bite.

 

[Andyshine77]

The small file works because you're getting under the tooth more and you're putting more pressure on a smaller area. A file that's too small will likely make too much hook. I use 13/64 Stihl files and have zero issue filing Stihl RS chain. If you have issues with a good new file, I too would think the tooth has been overheated from a grinder, or from running it too long when the chain was really dull. Some say Stihl chain is harder to file, that is hogwash, something else is going in.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

How old/used are the files?

 

[user 122190]

New chains are that way. Initially, the files don't fit in the groove. Stay at it, and the chain and the file will become compatible.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I have tried files of all qualities, some brand new some old as fcuk with rust and everything.

The chain has not been ground since the factory, so maybe something went wrong there? My saw is oiling properly and at maximum oil flow. I usually sharpen once every 3 tanks or so. I cant think of any time i would have damaged the chain myself and I did have this problem on the first filing. Also, I never run stock chain for very long, I usually file it straight out of the box if I have time.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

New chains are that way. Initially, the files don't fit in the groove. Stay at it, and the chain and the file will become compatible.

I have found that the bigger chains become easier to file with age, but I have never found anything THIS resistant to filing.

 

[Spectre468]

I will usually run a new chain for two cutting sessions before I sharpen. Then 4 strokes per tooth with file guide and it's good as new. I then sharpen after every use. Once I have to drop the rakers for the first time, I go to the next size up file ( for .404) and do 4 strokes per tooth. This really cleans out the gullets. Then back to the regular 3/8 file until the rakers get too high again. Repeat with the gullet cleaning. It's been years since I've had to replace a chain, but I'm getting down to the witness marks on a couple of them. I'm cutting 10-15 cords a year in addition to doing a lot of clearing on our wooded property. Since the spring I've been running a saw about 8-10 hours a week on average. I'm using mostly 33RSF. Hope this helps.

 

[Andyshine77]

I have tried files of all qualities, some brand new some old as fcuk with rust and everything.

The chain has not been ground since the factory, so maybe something went wrong there? My saw is oiling properly and at maximum oil flow. I usually sharpen once every 3 tanks or so. I cant think of any time i would have damaged the chain myself and I did have this problem on the first filing. Also, I never run stock chain for very long, I usually file it straight out of the box if I have time.

3 Tanks of fuel is quiteba bit, depending on the wood I often sharpen in between tanks, wood has silica in it and will dull the chain without actually hitting something in the wood or getting in the dirt. I do have a suspicion that your chains might be more dull than you know. Can you take a quility picture of one of your used chains? That may help.

Other than that I really don't know what to say. I use Stihl files, they bite better than some other bramds I've used, not sure who actually makes them. Maybe try using more pressure, although that isn't recommended and shouldn't be nessairy.

 

[Andyshine77]

I will usually run a new chain for two cutting sessions before I sharpen. Then 4 strokes per tooth with file guide and it's good as new.

[emoji44] I'm always amazed how some can put up with such things. Sorry and not to pick on you, but there is no way your chains are properly sharpened, for multiple reasons. I hope you were joking.

 

[Andyshine77]

This is more or less how a work chain should look after a filing.

 

[Spectre468]

[emoji44] I'm always amazed how some can put up with such things. Sorry and not to pick on you, but there is no way your chains are properly sharpened, for multiple reasons. I hope you were joking.

No offense taken. I was not joking. If I get a chance I'll post up some pix of my sharpened chains. I use Stihl guides, files and gauges. I have chains with teeth half the length of when they were new and other than that they match the profile of a new tooth. My sharpened chain typically cut smoother and faster than a new chain. Not being sarcastic, but how am I doing it wrong? I've been doing it this way for many years. If there is something I'm missing I'd like to learn.

 

[Andyshine77]

No offense taken. I was not joking. If I get a chance I'll post up some pix of my sharpened chains. I use Stihl guides, files and gauges. I have chains with teeth half the length of when they were new and other than that they match the profile of a new tooth. My sharpened chain typically cut smoother and faster than a new chain. Not being sarcastic, but how am I doing it wrong? I've been doing it this way for many years. If there is something I'm missing I'd like to learn.

[emoji106] Some can't take criticism.

I don't know how your holding the file or your technique so I won't comment on that specifically. And obviously without seeing one of your chains means I really don't know what shape it's truly in.

The concern I have is the length of time you go between sharpenings, and having a set number of strokes per tooth. Teeth don't always dull evenly, so each tooth gets it's own separate treatment. Just going by a set number will leave some teeth sharpe some dull, one must look at the and determine whether or not it's sharp. Feeling the tooth helps too, but if you know what to look for there is no need. Tooth length is mostly inconsequential on a work chain, so long as you have your depth gauges set correcthy with a progressive depth gauge tool. The depth gauge tools that just ride on top of multiple teeth don't work well, especially when the tooth gets past halfway used. Maintaining the gullet is key too.

 

[Spectre468]

[emoji106] Some can't take criticism.

I don't know how your holding the file or your technique so I won't comment on that specifically. And obviously without seeing one of your chains means I really don't know what shape it's truly in.

The concern I have is the length of time you go between sharpenings, and having a set number of strokes per tooth. Teeth don't always dull evenly, so each tooth gets it's own separate treatment. Just going by a set number will leave some teeth sharpe some dull, one must look at the and determine whether or not it's sharp. Feeling the tooth helps too, but if you know what to look for there is no need. Tooth length is mostly inconsequential on a work chain, so long as you have your depth gauges set correcthy with a progressive depth gauge tool. The depth gauge tools that just ride on top of multiple teeth don't work well, especially when the tooth gets past halfway used. Maintaining the gullet is key too.

No, I can take criticism, especially when it's constructive. I'm a lifetime learner. So after the initial "break-in" period I sharpen after every use, which is usually a tank or less. Like I mentioned, I use Stihl sharpening equipment, the file holder with guide and the filing guide that goes on the chain, which the file with guide fits into for consistent angles. I find that 4 strokes is usually all I need to get the chain back in shape. If I "dirted" the chain I'll go a few more strokes as needed, and then get each tooth up to the same number of strokes to maintain consistent length on the teeth. I mark the top plate of a tooth and the rivets of the master link to ensure that I don't hit any of them double. My teeth bite and draw blood if I feel them too much. I'm guilty of using the Stihl depth gauge that sits on top of multiple teeth. It seems plenty accurate, but do you recommend a better tool?

Thanks, buddy, for the info.

 

[Andyshine77]

No, I can take criticism, especially when it's constructive. I'm a lifetime learner. So after the initial "break-in" period I sharpen after every use, which is usually a tank or less. Like I mentioned, I use Stihl sharpening equipment, the file holder with guide and the filing guide that goes on the chain, which the file with guide fits into for consistent angles. I find that 4 strokes is usually all I need to get the chain back in shape. If I "dirted" the chain I'll go a few more strokes as needed, and then get each tooth up to the same number of strokes to maintain consistent length on the teeth. I mark the top plate of a tooth and the rivets of the master link to ensure that I don't hit any of them double. My teeth bite and draw blood if I feel them too much. I'm guilty of using the Stihl depth gauge that sits on top of multiple teeth. It seems plenty accurate, but do you recommend a better tool?

Thanks, buddy, for the info.

Only a tank or so is fine if you don't hit anything obviously. Don't worry about tooth length much. In fact you can file the teeth on one side of the chain all the way back it will still cut fine, so long as the depth gauges are set correctly. So if tooth length varies here and there it won't do any harm. I file freehand most of the time, the guides are good to learn with and I use one from time to time.

These are the about the best progressive depth gauges available. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Depth-Gauge-Pitch-Chainsaw/dp/B001W0FGAQ

 

[farmer steve]

Here's an odd one, or I thought it was.

So I bought an 84 drive link 3/8 stihl RS chain, as you do, and it wont sharpen with any 7/32 or 13/64 file.

If I use any of the afore mentioned files they just rub against the tooth and dont make any noise. It feels smooth, like there is not friction at all and the tooth stays the same. They are not filing. It doesnt matter how new the files are, and I know they work from using them on other chains.

But, if I switch to an oregon 3/16 file it works fine! Of course I have to spend a little more time on each tooth but it works just like normal. File makes proper noise, feels right, shavings are created and tooth gets smaller.
Switch back to the "proper" files, nothing.

Anyone else had this?

I lent a saw to a fellow member who needed a bigger bar for some big oak. I put a new chain on it. He called me the next day to ask what size file as he was having a hard time filing it. I knew what he was talking about and told him how to go about it. It must be a stihl chain thing. I had one tooth on another chain that was like you describe that no matter what i did the file would slide across it and the rest of the chain filed fine.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

That sounds like my problem.
Do you still have that chain? Try using a smaller file, 3/16 works fine for me. Weird.
Even after I file a tooth with 3/16 and then try and file it with 7/32 or 13/64 I get the same result. Just slides across it.

 

[Andyshine77]

That sounds like my problem.
Do you still have that chain? Try using a smaller file, 3/16 works fine for me. Weird.
Even after I file a tooth with 3/16 and then try and file it with 7/32 or 13/64 I get the same result. Just slides across it.

Really odd[emoji19] I have never experienced that on a chain that wasn't cooked on a grinder. I have 50 Stihl chains right now, zero problems with sharpening any them. I'm thinking the file is too high in the tooth and isn't getting under the chrome for the proper hook. Can you post up a pick of a chain that you've filed?

 

[farmer steve]

Really odd[emoji19] I have never experienced that on a chain that wasn't cooked on a grinder. I have 50 Stihl chains right now, zero problems with sharpening any them. I'm thinking the file is too high in the tooth and isn't getting under the chrome for the proper hook. Can you post up a pick of a chain that you've filed?

The chain I had problems on is long gone.
I have more issues filing a new 3/8 chain than my other sizes. Gonna run a file across a new .325 chain in the morning and might put a new chain on the 462 and hit that to see how it does. I only run stihl chains.

 

[HarleyT]

Here's an odd one, or I thought it was.

So I bought an 84 drive link 3/8 stihl RS chain, as you do, and it wont sharpen with any 7/32 or 13/64 file.

If I use any of the afore mentioned files they just rub against the tooth and dont make any noise. It feels smooth, like there is not friction at all and the tooth stays the same. They are not filing. It doesnt matter how new the files are, and I know they work from using them on other chains.

But, if I switch to an oregon 3/16 file it works fine! Of course I have to spend a little more time on each tooth but it works just like normal. File makes proper noise, feels right, shavings are created and tooth gets smaller.
Switch back to the "proper" files, nothing.

Anyone else had this?

PICS!!!!