MS260 Piston Pin Circlip Killed Piston

[9050lx]

What do you guys think of blowing bearings out with a water hose?I have used this method several times and it seems to get all solids out of the bearings.O course I lubricate immediately and don't spin them until lubricated.

 

[drf255]

I see your in the UK, so I’m not sure on the availability of used parts. A 44mm used oem jug plus a new meteor piston would work just fine. Not all MS260 are 44.7, most are actually 44mm. The later ones labeled 50cc on the tank label are 44.7 in unmolested form. The performance is identical.

You can flush the case out, but a “stitch in time saves nine”. I’d split it, as you really have no idea what other crappy parts the prior owner used.

You’ll need an oem case gasket set.

You can try Chinese bearings as long as you clean them out and make sure they feel good on installation, but oem are always gonna be cheap insurance. The PTO bearing is the same 024-046. The flywheel side bearing is unique, it’s a thinner width 6202-I can’t recall the number right now. You can get the Fly side from a good bearing manufacturer and save a few sheckles.

I’d boil that crank personally. You want every last bit of grit out of it. Then blow out, inspect and oil the main bearing.

I know it sounds like overkill, but shortcuts aren’t worth it. Sometimes you win, but when you lose you will kick yourself.

I ported an o34S which ate 3 oem pistons. There was debris in the main crank bearing from the prior donor saw. Even with multiple trips through the ultrasonic, it kept spewing out little particles and rubbing the piston. After the 3rd one fried, and after multiple re-chamfering and rehoning of the jug, I finally realized what was happening.

It’s worth the extra effort to split the case.

 

[drf255]

And BTW, that kit you’re looking at does not look like oem. Look how thick the piston pin looks.

Also, if your look up into the combustion chamber of your bad jug, you can see a casting of the manufacturers logo at the apex. My bet is Huztl.

 

[drf255]

Oem vs Huztl

 

[Ricrhys]

And BTW, that kit you’re looking at does not look like oem. Look how thick the piston pin looks.

Also, if your look up into the combustion chamber of your bad jug, you can see a casting of the manufacturers logo at the apex. My bet is Huztl.

Thanks for your reply, I've found a local Stihl dealer and ordered a genuine kit for £130, just had a look now, looks like Hutzl to me.

 

[Ozhoo]

Fill the crankcase with mix, rotate crank time and time again, dump mix, repeat a couple times and reassemble. If you don't already have a pressure/vacuum pump get one.

 

[Mad Professor]

Are there any markings to tell if it’s OEM?

what should be on my parts list and to do list?

Stihl pistons are stamped on the crown, A, B or A/B. It designates sizing. Cylinders are stamped too.

Edit: I think meteor also stamps pistons by size.

 

[Ricrhys]

Well I ordered a new genuine kit from an authorised dealer, and to be fair it was genuine, it wasn’t however new.

 

[Mad Professor]

Well I ordered a new genuine kit from an authorised dealer, and to be fair it was genuine, it wasn’t however new.

Not new? how so?

 

[Ricrhys]

See the photos, they have confirmed its an old refurbed one and are sending me a replacement as I payed for new.

 

[Mad Professor]

See the photos, they have confirmed its an old refurbed one and are sending me a replacement as I payed for new.

Never heard of a refurbed stihl P/C?

 

[Ricrhys]

sorry my bad they have confirmed it's an old one, I just assumed refurbed.

 

[SteveSr]

sorry my bad they have confirmed it's an old one, I just assumed refurbed.

An authorized dealer selling USED parts?

 

[Ricrhys]

it was sent directly from sthil I'm told.

 

[drf255]

How do you know it’s not new?

Looks like a 44.7 from the top.

 

[Mad Professor]

How do you know it’s not new?

Looks like a 44.7 from the top.

I've seen some crusty looking NOS from sitting on the self open box.

 

[NickC]

What dealer did you buy from? Stihl sending a used kit sounds extremely unlikely.....

I always buy from L&S Engineering, great service. That kit looks like the ones I have, made in Brasil, out of curiosity what was the replacement? The same or German Mahle brand?

 

[Ricrhys]

So the Stihl dealer said this one was made in brasil and sent from Sthil is that not right? I picked up a replacement yesterday that still looks a bit tatty, will post pics

 

[Ricrhys]

The one that is coming off is on the left, the Stihl one I picked up from the dealer yesterday on the right. Does this look ok?

 

[Ricrhys]

Also I’m aware that I’m putting on a slightly larger cylinder, but I’ve noticed in the new one the transfer ports have gone and it’s just a big space, is that also ok?