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Found two busted AV springs so had to order those today. Also ordered another ring to replace the one I busted. I’m ready to get this thing cuttin!

with the 50cc p&c and the base gasket delete, will this saw cut with an 80cc saw?
 
Found two busted AV springs so had to order those today. Also ordered another ring to replace the one I busted. I’m ready to get this thing cuttin!

with the 50cc p&c and the base gasket delete, will this saw cut with an 80cc saw?
you mean the 50mm P&C? did you go with the OEM parts, or some aftermarket ones? the OEM mahle cylinder flows quiet well if you were to do the "farmer jones" mods too it I would say deffinitely (gasket delete, muffler mod, and then trim and knife edge the lip of the transfer ports sorry my terminology is probably worthels but a quick search here on the forum should get you going. that or look up "afleetcommand" on you tube, he has several very good videos on how to wake up the 371/372 series saws.

If you went with a chinese cylinder then all bets are off as the port timing on them suck and getting them to perform at the OEM levels takes a lot of effort.
 
Well quite disappointed... I got it all back together last night but it STILL won't start. I checked for spark and seen the spark when I pulled the rope. It's got new fuel line and totally rebuilt carb. One thing I checked as I was rebuilding the carb was how many turns it took to bottom out the adjustment screws. The high speed was all the way in so when i rebuilt it, I screwed it back until it bottomed out, just like it was. Could that prevent it from starting?
It's so frustrating to have went through all of this and it not start. I just don't know enough about these engines to know what I'm doing. I was planning to tackle the 25hp Honda engine on one of my power washers next but my track record sure isn't good. Maybe I should stick to fixing diesel engines.
 
Well quite disappointed... I got it all back together last night but it STILL won't start. I checked for spark and seen the spark when I pulled the rope. It's got new fuel line and totally rebuilt carb. One thing I checked as I was rebuilding the carb was how many turns it took to bottom out the adjustment screws. The high speed was all the way in so when i rebuilt it, I screwed it back until it bottomed out, just like it was. Could that prevent it from starting?
It's so frustrating to have went through all of this and it not start. I just don't know enough about these engines to know what I'm doing. I was planning to tackle the 25hp Honda engine on one of my power washers next but my track record sure isn't good. Maybe I should stick to fixing diesel engines.
H- 3/4 to 1 turn out. L-1 turn out. Turn T screw out 3-4 turns, butterfly needs to be open to start. Let saw warm up before final adjustment. Idle 2700-2800rpm. High around 13,000 and will four stroke. Adjust T so chain does not move when at idle.
 
Actually I do have one and got it hooked up now. It's isn't reading anything. Jumps up as i pull then goes back to zero. Need to hook it up to my 261 to make sure the gauge doesn't have a leak.
 
This is the saw I had vacuum on, waiting for ported cylinder to arrive. You do not have to make a plate, just use vinyl or duct tape to cover exhaust port and install muffler with gasket. Remove carb and block with vinyl or duct tape, have used thumb to seal. I also made a plate and gasket for carb side. Vinyl or duct tape method will draw laughs, but as you can see it does work. That carb boot I am using is junk, has a tear and reason why person traded in saw. You can see vinyl tape on exhaust side also.
 

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