MS261 Clutch drum question

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pigpen29

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I was replacing my sprocket on my MS261 and figured i would grease the cage bearing while i was at it. When i tried to remove the clutch drum it took a bit of a work and was slightly stuck on. When i got it off i noticed a bunch of residue along the outermost section all the way around. Do i just clean this off and put it back on there or do i have a bigger issue and need to replace more? See pic below for the residue
 
I have had some clutch drums be a little tight when removing. I would just clean it up and reinstall. I think the residue is just sawdust fines mixed with bar oil. I would blow out the clutch area with air and call it good. While your this far pull off the chain brake cover and clean it out.
 
Thanks farmer Steve took your advice removed the cover and realized in doing so the chain brake was on. Obvious issue why i couldn't get it back in easy. blew out the area after taking the cover off (its was nasty!) and put it all back together. That problem solve now onto the next... leaking gas and oil. Going to start easy and replace the caps, it has the easy one. probably should replace the spark plug and air filter while i'm at it... haven't done those ever on the saw.
 
I use a parts brush and diesel/kero to clean under the cover followed with detergent to get rid of stench. Take some sandpaper to inside of clutch drum. Clean bearing, crank stub, and inside bearing surface of drum with gas or mineral spirts. Then grease those. Pivots on chain brake should get a drop of oil.

People don't realize what builds up under that cover. I saw a 026 cover that started to melt from friction with debris.
 
Thanks farmer Steve took your advice removed the cover and realized in doing so the chain brake was on. Obvious issue why i couldn't get it back in easy. blew out the area after taking the cover off (its was nasty!) and put it all back together. That problem solve now onto the next... leaking gas and oil. Going to start easy and replace the caps, it has the easy one. probably should replace the spark plug and air filter while i'm at it... haven't done those ever on the saw.
I never see anyone mention cleaning under that cover. My personal preference is OEM on the air filter and plug. You may be able to clean your old filter and save for a backup. Do you mean flippy caps when you say easy ones?
 
I use a parts brush and diesel/kero to clean under the cover followed with detergent to get rid of stench. Take some sandpaper to inside of clutch drum. Clean bearing, crank stub, and inside bearing surface of drum with gas or mineral spirts. Then grease those. Pivots on chain brake should get a drop of oil.

People don't realize what builds up under that cover. I saw a 026 cover that started to melt from friction with debris.
MP, I couldn't believe the crud under the chain brake cover the first time I pulled it off on my 290. I never knew it was supposed to be pulled off. I think I did all my saws that day.
 
Generally that outer stuff is just "crud". But after you have cleaned it off, see if the inner surface of the clutch drum is even or if there is still an outer raised surface. If the outer edge is significantly higher than where the brake band rides, you may need a new sprocket. The specs are if the band area is less than 80% of the clean outer area, you should replace the sprocket. The only problem is that I have never figured out how to measure the band area diameter with the instruments I have. Fortunately the problem has never come up.
 
MP, I couldn't believe the crud under the chain brake cover the first time I pulled it off on my 290. I never knew it was supposed to be pulled off. I think I so I all my saws that day.

Most of my Stihls I got for free or little $$$, old grungy Stilhs......... I clean them up for a rebuild so I've seen the/or close to, the worst. We had a thread on that? Filthiest saw? Where is that?

If I get the time and a saw has not had attention I'll pull the clutch and flywheel and clean to the case. But that is with filthy saws.

Just pulling off the clutch side cover (clutch not bar) , and recoil cover and cleaning once in a while takes care of things without removing flywheel/clutch.
 
Yea the non screw type cap. If I turn my saw on the cap side gas pours out. And when I leave it in the case for a week there is a pool of oil.
I looked up the price of them though and about died. Going to try cleaning and pulling the rubber gasket first to see if that makes a difference. $40 for a cap is just stupid. Assuming the oil could be the feeder hose but going to do the same with the rubber gasket on the cap and hope that fixes all. I saw baileys has a oem filter for $40.. again seems so excessive. Will check eBay see if I can get a better deal as pretty sure I should replace it even if I have to pay 40

again thanks for all the help you guys always rock!
 
Generally that outer stuff is just "crud". But after you have cleaned it off, see if the inner surface of the clutch drum is even or if there is still an outer raised surface. If the outer edge is significantly higher than where the brake band rides, you may need a new sprocket. The specs are if the band area is less than 80% of the clean outer area, you should replace the sprocket. The only problem is that I have never figured out how to measure the band area diameter with the instruments I have. Fortunately the problem has never come up.

Use vernier calipers.
 
Yea the non screw type cap. If I turn my saw on the cap side gas pours out. And when I leave it in the case for a week there is a pool of oil.
I looked up the price of them though and about died. Going to try cleaning and pulling the rubber gasket first to see if that makes a difference. $40 for a cap is just stupid. Assuming the oil could be the feeder hose but going to do the same with the rubber gasket on the cap and hope that fixes all. I saw baileys has a oem filter for $40.. again seems so excessive. Will check eBay see if I can get a better deal as pretty sure I should replace it even if I have to pay 40

again thanks for all the help you guys always rock!
I was just at my dealer because i had trouble with the attachment string for my 462 fuel cap. He pulled a new one out for us to look at to determine the problem and the price on it was $7.49. Even though baileys sells OEM stihl parts they are not an authorized stihl dealer. Their site says they get stihl parts from various sources so i just figure they mark them up. IMO. The O rings are a replaceble part on the caps.
 
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