To full wrap or not to full wrap.

[U&A]

More of a search for everyone’s personal opinions on the subject.

Iv never felt the need for a full wrap. But i also think they are handy. Non of my saws have one though.

A saw with a fill wrap also wont fit on the floor in the cab of my truck very well.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Czed]

I'm primarily left handed
And the hills we cut on a full wrap is very handy
But not necessary.
Most of my falling saws are full wraps
But i have many that are not
I flush cut on populated properties.

 

[Derf]

On all my saws over 60cc, or that regularly use a 20”+ bar, I like a full wrap. And I’m on the east coast.

Once you get used to them they allow you a lot more ability and options to more safely approach a tree in the woods. However, if I was in lawn care and just doing urban tree removals in someone’s back yard and had lots of room to walk around a tree I would see less utility in them. Although, you do get the random homeowner who has a tree growing 20” from a garage wall that he wants to remove and you would like a full wrap.

Mostly it’s a west coast/steep terrain thing.

If you want to save some weight and do flush cuts as low as possible, I suppose the half wrap wins. But I don’t like cutting that low anyway, too many rocks/grit to worry about the last 2” of stump. Let the grinder take them down, or leave 20” and pull it out with a back hoe and a chain.

 

[Efisher26]

If I could find a full wrap for my poulan 3700 I would


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[Skeans]

How much do you really loose with a full wrap maybe an inch on the clutch side vs what you gain in safety is huge, I’m a little biased being just about everything have for falling timber is full or 3/4. The advantage to a full is being able to stay on the same side of the stump well falling or putting a face in with the clutch side up easier, when walking to bump knots they come in handy as well for flipping the saw side to side which is hard to explain unless actually seen being done. Bucking it’s the same thing it gives you another option, options are what can be the difference between going home at night and not.


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[EchoRomeoCharlie]

Never used one...never fell trees on steep terrain. I can generally always get to both sides of the tree without issue around here.

I'd be interested in giving it a try though.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Do not care for full wrap handles, but to each his own.

 

[farmguywithasaw]

I love full wrap don’t know why they make saws without

 

[svk]

I was thinking it would be nice to have one saw with a wrap but I fall large trees so infrequently that I just can’t justify it.

 

[Matt93eg]

Got a full on my 390XP

 

[U&A]

I flush cut in my woods EVERY time so i can drive my truck over it.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Do not care for full wrap handles, but to each his own.

There’s a full wrap handle in your avatar[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

I was thinking it would be nice to have one saw with a wrap but I fall large trees so infrequently that I just can’t justify it.

What is “large” to you? I frequently fall trees that are 70+feet but the diameter ranges from 20”-30” . Not “large” IMO. I would LOVE to have to chance to cut down a monster.

I tried to cut down the biggest ones that cast the most shade so all the small trees have more opportunity to grow.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[fool skip]

Full wrap always. Skeans covered most of it in an earlier post. One more thing. Even on flat ground, you want to cut from the side you want to pull to. Undercut and backcut. If you undercut from one side and backcut from the other, you won't hit a bull in the ass consistently.

 

[Skeans]

I flush cut in my woods EVERY time so i can drive my truck over it.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I get yelled at if my stumps are much over 6” in a trail one trick I’ll do to cure this issue is to wack the back cut off the stump afterwards

How much lower are you going to get without a full wrap on something like this?


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[Stihl 041S]

I got 3/4 wrap on as many as I can find.

 

[catbuster]

3/4 wrap or bust on a bar over 24”. I’ve run saws without them, particularly in the midwest when I was younger, but after some saw time out west I’m pretty well on the 3/4 wrap train and not getting off. I have one saw that doesn’t have one, my 441, and I don’t really fall with it, and it runs a 28” bar exclusively. The 461 and 046 have the 3/4 wrap and they’re what I grab to fall or run the longer bars.

It’s all about controlling your saw and where you can put yourself. If I flip the saw clutch side up and don’t have to back bar, and it’s much safer grabbing a hold of it with the handle that’s on the side facing up than the side over the top cover, which is then vertical. Doesn’t work your forearms, and puts the operator in a better position to keep that hand on the saw if it does kick, which cutting with the bottom of the bar it should be at a much lower risk of doing so.

Not to mention that you don’t have to cut from both sides on flat ground, or put yourself in a bad spot in places where you can’t get to both sides.

 

[Justsaws]

Not a huge fan of wrap handles, some are better than others. I like the wrap on the Husq 395 better than the Stihl 660. There are times when the wrap allows for safer operation of the saw, I basically consider them to be like chain brakes and chaps. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have.

Still though, not a huge fan.

Always thought the Husq 346 needed a wrap. The Stihl 360 would also have been nice.

 

[thomasinvancouver]

What’s their application in clearing blow down?

 

[Woodslasher]

If you have to ask that question, you need to turn your saws in to the proper authority (me). WRAP 'EM, DUH!