Splitter problems

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No - push power is defined by the size of the cylinder and pressure in the system.
An increase in the GPM will translate to an increase in speed.

Is there any sort of tag/model # on your pump?
Cant find anything but on cylinder says big brave think its a 22 ton called brave they could not be certain but said it came over on mayflower it is one of there frist models guy told me he hasnt seen one of them in years and that was from Brave
 
Are the couplings tight on both shafts, engine and pump?

Is the pump whining or making any loud unusual noise when this starts to happen?

Also, you can hold the spool lever for a little while to see if it gets warm which would indicate flow is bypssing the piston circuit. Or, If the hoses to the piston, and the piston get warm then it might be bypassing in the piston.

Does the hydraulic spool make a noise (pressure release/bypass) when you retract the piston fully?
There is no noise from any thing after i would say a hour its warm on Cylinder and hoses even tank is warm and that is recently when outside temps has been 60 's and down to 40's
 
I've heard of those lines de-laminating and collapsing internally without outside evidence. A thought to pay attention to. Of course, that would only apply if it's a supply problem to the pump.
Only problem i have seen is line to cylinder has a few weather cracks going to replace lines soon
 
So would it be better if i went with 13gpm pump new hoses new valve and cylinder and tank current tank is 2.5 gallon need some ideals on sizes wife wants me to get new splitter or get this one going used splitters are High here everone burns wood im wanting to redo this splitter where it is waist level and tilts have had a recent failed back surgery so lifting is out. that way maybe me and wife can set it vertical and split the bigger logs if you look at last picture there is 4 logs that the splitter wont even try to make a mark on them had son and his freind lift them on splitter and tryed to quarter and even shave them but it wont they tried a maul on a couple but gave up. So what ram would be a good setup
1 my stove takes 22 in logs
2 what would be a good size ram for it welded or non welded
3 what gpm valve would work could i have a dual spool and not use one side to add log lift later ?
4. so if i go with 13 gpm pump do i use the threaded port type or is the pressed in 3/4 inlet tube pumps ok
5. Centric or Gear type Pump ? Dont know differnce
6. Tank size current is 2.5 gallon i think its a bit small from 1 other splitter i have had in past
I know i will have close to box store splitter price on this build but it will be new and i do have a 13.5 briggs rider engine i could use if needed but motor on it is newer 6.5
 
Before putting a pump on it you need a gage. Using one gage, placement i would say install it in the main, but others might say to install the gage in the cylinder supply line. If I remember correctly, that splitter is too close to the ground. If you increase pump size you will need to increase your oil tank. If you are not attached to that splitter and you have the extra funds, I vote to replace.
 
all good suggestions, but everything is a ‘could be’ situation. Before throwing parts and money at it get the pressure gauge installed. Ideally a flowmeter also installed but at least start with the pressure gauge.
What type of gauge would i get i read it is 3000 lb ? System
 
The closer the gage is to the designed pressure the more accurate it will be. 3k pump/3k or 3.5k gage. I dont think a 4k/5k gage would be inaccurate for your purposes.
 
Im running 5k gages (edit- correct) on my splitter and both spools trip at 3k. I agree that you could most likely damage a gage due to overpressure, so I would want something over my designed pressure. A lower psi gage would be more accurate, but that is what the dealer had over 3k psi.
 
Im running 5k gages (edit- correct) on my splitter and both spools trip at 3k. I agree that you could most likely damage a gage due to overpressure, so I would want something over my designed pressure. A lower psi gage would be more accurate, but that is what the dealer had over 3k psi.

Agree if you're running the system at 3K. Most run below that. The majority of gauges don't have a hard stop at top pressure indicated. If the system is running at 2,750 psi then a 3K gauge will work.
 
What is your thoughts on this one was told i coild get it for 300.00 and it runs and splits View attachment 771769

It is definitely higher off the ground, and you may end up with similar problems again. You cannot purchase those parts separately for that price. But, depending where you live, you are only $500+- away from headache free (theoretically) ownership for the next 10-20 years.

I would consider purchasing that and offer it to someone for the $300 I paid. Just to help someone out and keep the splitter out of the junkyard. For resale, I dont think one could get more for it. But, something is only worth a given value to the beholder, or what someone will pay.
 
To bad there wasn't a picture of the splitter instead of just the tougne set up.

Just put. anew pump on the opne you have. Worry about a PG after you do the install.

:D Al
 
UPDATE i put gauge on just to check pressure and it would not go over 1100 psi so i orderd a new 13 gpm pump for 129.00 and it now splits any thing i put on it the big logs in the last picture are cut up and on the wood pile thank you so much for everyone's help here im still going to be around i enjoy reading a lot of forum post
 
Glad you got it going.
Several said it was a pump problem to begin with too.

:D Al
Yes they did but was a good ideal to check pressure frist so now i have this i can install in summer and remove in winter since its liquid filled but if any one is needing parts check out. www.tooltuffdirect.com best prices i have found and they sell wood splitter build kits stll need to do some modifying wedge and push foot making it a little taller but that is a spring project again thank you to everyones help
 
i can install in summer and remove in winter since its liquid filled

See if you have any information on the liquid filling. You may not have to do the removal/re-installation. They usually have some form of glycerin in them, and after some quick looking online, I saw that some can be used as low as -40°, depending on the mixture inside.
 
See if you have any information on the liquid filling. You may not have to do the removal/re-installation. They usually have some form of glycerin in them, and after some quick looking online, I saw that some can be used as low as -40°, depending on the mixture inside.
I'll have to check that out Thank You
 

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