What the hell kinda chain sharpening job is this, what bar do I have?

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They stayed shallow with a chain grinder. That gullet or lack of gives me nightmares.

On 3/8” LP chain I use a 7/32” round file below the cutting edge of the tooth to file out the gullet. Once that file is under the top of the tooth then sharpen the upper edge with a file n guide.
 
Looks like someone was to high with the corner of the wheel.


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There’s so much unfilled gullet material in those cutters that it wouldn’t make anything more than bug dust. Regardless, the wood ticks and maybe even some of the timber terrorists here can put you on the right track when it comes to filing/grinding.
 
The chain looks like it was sharpened with the grinding wheel for 3/8 lo pro inside of 3/8. If someone had a harbor freight grinder and did a good job at stopping the grinding wheel at the depth to give the top plate a proper hollow grind, it would look similar to that chain.
 
Just needs a few swipes with a file to clear out the gullet. How does it cut?
Never tried it. It was on a saw that never ran that I tossed. The guy I got it from had one of those chainsaw adapter on his skills 77 worm drive if that tells you anything. Unless this works with any of the saws in my sig I cant test it. It looks about 24 inches. All I have are 20 inch bars except my husky
 
You like my tooth brush lol
I use a stainless steel, welding 'scratch brush' that I get from welding supply stores for about a buck each - really looks like a toothbrush; really cleans chains well.

The guy I got it from had one of those chainsaw adapter on his skills 77 worm drive . . .
Hard to know what the previous owner was thinking. If he was also using it on on a Prazi beam cutter, that might (?) be the correct grind for cutting kiln dried construction lumber:
http://praziusa.com/beamcutter.html

Lots of life left it it if you want to run it on a conventional saw. Not a big deal to 'bring it back' - easier to do on a grinder. Someone local can also spin it down to fit the saws you have, either to try it 'as is', or after being reshaped.

Philbert
 
I use a stainless steel, welding 'scratch brush' that I get from welding supply stores for about a buck each - really looks like a toothbrush; really cleans chains well.


Hard to know what the previous owner was thinking. If he was also using it on on a Prazi beam cutter, that might (?) be the correct grind for cutting kiln dried construction lumber:
http://praziusa.com/beamcutter.html

Lots of life left it it if you want to run it on a conventional saw. Not a big deal to 'bring it back' - easier to do on a grinder. Someone local can also spin it down to fit the saws you have, either to try it 'as is', or after being reshaped.

Philbert
Yeah I figured in this case I might pay to have the local shop grind it. I'll see if the bar lines up on my makita
 
No fit but could be made to fit. Close
 

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I’ve acquired several chains like that, definitely just sharpened with the wrong or worn out wheel. I even got a few from a former AS member that looked like that and supposedly he “knew what he was doing”. Sharpen it with the proper file/wheel and adjust the depth gauges and it will cut like new.

No clue on that bar, but best guess is large Husky. What width is the stud groove?
 
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