Poulan Pro to Stihl MS 250

[Tape]

I am sick and tired of only being able to start the Poulan once a day, it seems I have to keep it running while adding fuel and bar oil because if I shut it off that's it, it will not start til tomorrow. I solved that issue, I bought a Stihl MS 250 and MAN this is the it! It feels so solid and it starts everytime I pull the cord.

I'm a happy camper!!


BTW got it on sale for $299

 

[Justin Taylor]

Glade your happy the 250 is a great all around saw

 

[Joseph Huckabaa]

It’s a good saw. I’ve had mine for about 6 years. Just keep an eye on the air filter assembly. After a while the air filter doesn’t seal to the carb adapter very well.


Joseph Huckabaa

 

[Brushwacker]

A very good saw for small to medium wood. Lots of things I like about them. If warranty isn't an issue i would open up the muffler to about 75% the opening of the exhaust port and readjust the carb ,sooner or later. It will be louder but should gain significant power.

 

[scottr]

Maybe it's time for a compression check and new rings or piston and rings .

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

The MS250 is a great saw for the money. I’ve had mine for like 8 months or so. Being that I work in the power equipment industry and can’t leave well enough alone I did a few mods to mine. First mod was a 025 muffler. I also drilled the holes in the internal baffle to 3/16”. I didn’t drill any new holes just made the existing holes slightly larger. I threw on a WT-215 carb and a rim sprocket kit. Let me tell you it’s a different saw now. These saws are really choked down on the exhaust due to EPA regs.

 

[Tape]

Hey guys, this is an Excellent saw! It starts everytime. I'm just busting that this thing does exactly what it's suppose to. I glad I started with the Poulan, it shows me how a chainsaw is suppose to operate.

 

[alleyyooper]

What Polan?

I love my little 2150 for limbing and a bit of hewing even. I admit the Polands are not the saw they were back in the 50's and 60's but look at what the cost out the door and from box stores too.





Al

 

[Tape]

What Polan?

I love my little 2150 for limbing and a bit of hewing even. I admit the Polands are not the saw they were back in the 50's and 60's but look at what the cost out the door and from box stores too.





Al

Poulan PR4016

I would gladly pay twice the price if it were as reliable as the Stihl

 

[Chris-PA]

Two plastic cased clamshell saws with nearly identical fuel systems and carbs made by one of the two companies that make all of them (ZAMA and Walbro). There's no reason to expect any difference in reliability (indeed, my dad's MS250 had fuel lines that didn't fit and leaked air when it was new).

The only way to get a reliable starting and running saw is to learn how to maintain, repair and tune them yourself. Otherwise over time you'll be right back where you were.

 

[ColdNorCal]

Two plastic cased clamshell saws with nearly identical fuel systems and carbs made by one of the two companies that make all of them (ZAMA and Walbro). There's no reason to expect any difference in reliability (indeed, my dad's MS250 had fuel lines that didn't fit and leaked air when it was new).

The only way to get a reliable starting and running saw is to learn how to maintain, repair and tune them yourself. Otherwise over time you'll be right back where you were.

If only I had learned this several years ago. I sold a couple saws cheap, they were not expensive pro saws to begin with though, over the past 20 years because they would not run. Ughhh.... Live and learn. I recently bought a 5020 cheap and got it running. Making up for past mistakes

 

[Colt Marlington]

I've been transitioning my middleweight lineup to all old Poulans.
Have Dad's old 3400 that's about to get a 61cc 3800 top end. Then there's the 3500 and Craftsman 3.7 thin ring.

And have been eyeballing a clamshell 2900 that looks in real good shape for it's age. Similar size and weight(maybe a touch lighter) to a 250. And hopefully power to match. But much much less expensive(a sometimes critical factor in the grand scheme of hoarding chainsaws). Although I'd have to find a 16" bar to get it like I want it.

Planning on selling a few other nice saws that are worth a bit more money.

But I won't fault anyone for buying a brand new 250. I've thought about it myself. And I've bought a couple of new small saws recently that someone might say, "you coulda just fixed up an old Poulan XXV and had a better saw". Of course I think the 2511 is pretty unique and a sweet little machine.

 

[Tape]

UPDATE: Well had the 250 for almost 2 months & 2 chain resharpens and today the crank cord gave way. It seems this is an ongoing cycle, happened several times with my Poulan and once for the Stihl but the Stihl cranks "everytime" I still love that part.

I've run a couple of gallons through the Stihl now and wonder if I should clean the air filter? If so how do you guys clean the filter? with gas??

 

[PV Hiker]

Go to page 42 and 43 of your manual that came with the saw. Most Stihl air filters I can use brake clean sprayed from the inside and lightly blow compressed air from same side. Below says warm soapy water.

MS 250
English
42


The air filter system can be adapted to
suit different operating conditions by
installing a choice of filters. Changing
the filter is quick and simple.
The saw comes standard with either a
fabric filter or a fleece filter.
Fabric filter
For normal operating conditions and
winter operation.
Fleece filter
For dry and very dusty work areas.
If there is a noticeable loss of engine
power
N Press down the throttle trigger
lockout and move the Master
Control lever to choke closed l.
N Turn the knob 90° to the left.
N Lift off the carburetor box cover
vertically.
N Always replace damaged filters.
N Clean away loose dirt from around
the filter.
N Place fingers behind the air filter (1),
press thumbs against the housing
and swing the filter in direction of
rear handle.

Air Filter System
208BA001 KN
Cleaning the Air Filter
208BA005 KN
1
135BA035 KN

NOTICE
To avoid damaging the filter, do not use
tools for removing and installing the air
filter.
N Blow out the filter with compressed
air from the clean air side.
If the filter fabric is caked with dirt or no
compressed air is available:
N Wash the filter in a clean, non-
flammable solution (e.g. warm
soapy water) and then dry.
N Reinstall the air filter.

 

[Brushwacker]

The bad: The air filters clog up on them fairly quick.
The good: they are easy and cheap to maintain.
I usually check mine every fill up or 2 and tap it lightly so as a majority of the debris falls off the filter and then turn the saw on its side or upside down, and use gravity and a bit of air from your lungs to remove the loose particles. Not much more then a minute taking your time. Clean it at home thorough often enough it gets all the way clean frequently .
Run it with the filter clogging to long robs power,fuel efficiency, and is a primary cause of carbon build up which can lead to bigger problems.

 

[Bret4207]

Two plastic cased clamshell saws with nearly identical fuel systems and carbs made by one of the two companies that make all of them (ZAMA and Walbro). There's no reason to expect any difference in reliability (indeed, my dad's MS250 had fuel lines that didn't fit and leaked air when it was new).

The only way to get a reliable starting and running saw is to learn how to maintain, repair and tune them yourself. Otherwise over time you'll be right back where you were.

Very well said! A brand name doesn't mean no problems. Fixing the old Poulan is a good way to learn.

 

[Bret4207]

UPDATE: Well had the 250 for almost 2 months & 2 chain resharpens and today the crank cord gave way. It seems this is an ongoing cycle, happened several times with my Poulan and once for the Stihl but the Stihl cranks "everytime" I still love that part.

I've run a couple of gallons through the Stihl now and wonder if I should clean the air filter? If so how do you guys clean the filter? with gas??

No offense, but a typical starter rope should last for for a lot longer than 2 months and a couple gallons of fuel. Some guys are long armed and pull the rope out to the very end every pull. That will strain the knot at the end on the pulley and break it eventually. There can also be sharp edges abrading or cutting the rope. Worth a look to see where the problem is.

 

[Tape]

No offense, but a typical starter rope should last for for a lot longer than 2 months and a couple gallons of fuel. Some guys are long armed and pull the rope out to the very end every pull. That will strain the knot at the end on the pulley and break it eventually. There can also be sharp edges abrading or cutting the rope. Worth a look to see where the problem is.

No offense taken at all, I posted it because I thought the same, the cord broke almost midway.