Super EZ fuel issues

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Also Leon will have new Reed valves, don't forget to get the gaskets. You don't have to take the cylinder off to replace it, just cut the existing one off at the edge of the cylinder then do the same with the new one, that way you don't have to worry about the cylinder end of it.
 
Also Leon will have new Reed valves, don't forget to get the gaskets. You don't have to take the cylinder off to replace it, just cut the existing one off at the edge of the cylinder then do the same with the new one, that way you don't have to worry about the cylinder end of it.

Once I get in there, how do I tell if the reed valve is good or bad?
 
Youtube reed valve replacement or adjustment. It will be able to show you what you need in a few minutes vs taking forever trying to explain it on here.
 
I agree, check the reed valves. 4 in a square block if I remember correctly. If they don't seat properly it will spit back. If they are deformed they will probably need to be replaced. It just might be a dirt issue though that is keeping them from seating properly.
 
Ok will do a little more fiddling with the carb and then go check out the reed valves. Looking at the saw tonight. You have to pull the whole handle assembly to get to the reeds?
 
Ok will do a little more fiddling with the carb and then go check out the reed valves. Looking at the saw tonight. You have to pull the whole handle assembly to get to the reeds?
Yes, it's not as bad as it seems right now to get it apart. This is the part where you are going to tear up the gasket behind the handle, or at least on three of them that I have done and I was really careful but they just get old and don't play well with others.

Get the Homelite shop manual from Leons site. Get the Forth edition pages 1-76. It has the section on the Super EZ in it.
 
Thanks for the link on the shop manual. That will be very helpful.

Update for anyone who cares:

I now have a saw that runs and idles and actually responds to the H-L screws. Not sure what’s changed. Maybe I didn’t give it enough time to warm up last try. The only other thing that is different since last go round was replacing the duckbill valves.

Whatever spit back remains appears to be pretty minor, if at all. I’m going to hold off on tearing down to inspect reed valves for now. Want to clean up the residual moisture and run a tank or so and see what happens.

Need to get a correct spark plug (saw currently has a DJ7J) and tune it in some wood. I ~might~ have an minor air leak somewhere. The saw occasionally reacts when I do the “hold upside down and in various positions” test. But it’s not consistent, actually kinda rare. I’ll at least spray some carb cleaner here and there whilst running to pinpoint anything obvious at the crank seals or cylinder gaskets, etc. I do have a brake bleeder and can rig up a crude vac test if need be.

Can’t wait to do some cutting. The SEZ sounds like an angry little dirt bike.
 
Been following your saga on your saw. Good job on getting it going. Had a friend give me a 1979 Super Ez auto that had less than 1 tank run thru it, and the remaining half tank was left in it. Replaced all oil and fuel lines, and rebuilt carb. Getting the carb settings right was a task. About gave up and posted it here for sale. I am a Stihl guy.This is a peppy little saw. Let us know how it performed when you get to cut some wood.
 
The DJ7J plug is fine in the saw.

I don't know if you would have much luck spraying the saw to test the seals. They have the oil pump hiding it pretty good on the PTO side and the flywheel and points box hiding it on the other side. If you do get a change I would guess that it would be pretty small unless the seals where completely trashed.
 
The DJ7J plug is fine in the saw.

I don't know if you would have much luck spraying the saw to test the seals. They have the oil pump hiding it pretty good on the PTO side and the flywheel and points box hiding it on the other side. If you do get a change I would guess that it would be pretty small unless the seals where completely trashed.

Good point. Unlit propane torch maybe? Or perhaps I should just do things right and hook up the vac tester.
 
Well I think I’m back to where I started. Got the saw all cleaned up, bar rails filed, chain sharpened yesterday. Made it out about 4 pm today with a plan to do some test cuts and tune.

It started easy, idled well, and cut very strong in some 18” hickory that’s been down a year. I was fiddling a lot with the low jet trying to get it just right. I’d occasionally kill it, but I could always go back to “home” setting of 1 1/4 turns and it’d fire right up and run.

After about 15-20 mins it started doing this thing where it’d stall after a cut, immediately once the rpms came down. It was too dark to see the screws anymore so I took it back to the garage. It got real hard to restart, so I pulled the air filter and saw a good puddle in the airbox again.

Looks like I’m gonna have to check out those reed valves after all. Anyway, I’m not super discouraged. The saw cut very, very well when it ran so at least I know there’s a good platform to work with.
 
One more thought...

99% of this saw was well engineered. I love how functional the design is.

The location of the oil fill however....leaves much to be desired o_O
 
LOL, well it was a joke, there is another bad thing about the oil tank and even with a funnel you will find out. It's hard to tell where the level is because of the shape of the housing inside so even with a funnel you will over fill it like I do I bet. But still one of if not my favorite saws.
 
LOL, well it was a joke, there is another bad thing about the oil tank and even with a funnel you will find out. It's hard to tell where the level is because of the shape of the housing inside so even with a funnel you will over fill it like I do I bet. But still one of if not my favorite saws.

Oh yeah. The part of the tank casting that’s close to the fill point actually causes it to back up before the oil can flow down. I made quite a mess yesterday.

I knew you were joking. That’s why you got a sarcastic thanks in return.

I totally get why you love the SEZ. I’m quite fond of mine already with very limited time.
 
Oh yeah. The part of the tank casting that’s close to the fill point actually causes it to back up before the oil can flow down. I made quite a mess yesterday.

I knew you were joking. That’s why you got a sarcastic thanks in return.

I totally get why you love the SEZ. I’m quite fond of mine already with very limited time.

Speaking of oiling, what is considered normal for the auto oiler? The chain isn’t dry but I can’t get it to throw a stripe of oil on a dry surface.

Since I’m tearing part way down, wonder if that’s something else I should look into.
 
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