Vac/pressure testing saws

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stilh036prohog

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Just got my mityvac 8500 today. First of I have never done it before. Should had brought this year's ago but I just winged it. Couple of questions. Do you do the vac or pressure test first? I got some 1/8 thick silicon rubber to block the exh and carb. Just looking for tips. First saw is a 026. And the evapo-rust is the bees knee.
 

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Just open the case and its broken already. Sucks
 

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I don’t think it really matters if you do a vac or press test first. I do a vac first and if it leaks hen press to find the leak. Remember, you only need 5lbs or so to find a leak. Once you start getting past 10-15 the lip seals won’t hold.
 
what do you use evaporust for. i tried it a couple years ago on a pto rototiller
it didn't do anything. but then again if the county fair gave out rust awards i'd have blue ribbon winners
 
10-15 lbs Of pressure on the case. That will blow past the oil seals making you think the seals are bad but instead it’s just over pressure.
 
what do you use evaporust for. i tried it a couple years ago on a pto rototiller
it didn't do anything. but then again if the county fair gave out rust awards i'd have blue ribbon winners
I soak hand tools in overnight. They came out looking new
 
Vac first. Then pressure. (.5 bar / 7.5 psi) Rock the crank slightly when doing the vac test.
 
Evapo-rust is good stuff. Now to get a new mityvac. I was really excited to do my first test. O well my spring came today for the 281xp I been waiting for three weeks. I want to put some wood this weekend. My biggest saw to date. Damn cad.
 
Paint stripper will remove carbon if one does not have to worry about paint, Tal Strip, paint remover for aluminum surfaces removes carbon quickly, I have used it for years when doing valve jobs and engine rebuilds.
Amazing i’ll have a look online for some now! I was going to get the dremel and wire wheel out :confused:
 
This may not be the most efficient method, but it works for me. Turn the cylinder upside down with a spark plug in it. fill the combustion chamber with brake fluid, just above the level of the carbon buildup. Let sit 3 days or more. Use a wire broom shaped brush on a Dremel and go over the combustion chamber. Comes off nicely. For carbon on a piston crown, I turn it in a circular motion on 220 grit on a flat surface. For carbon in the exhaust port, I go straight to a carbide bit and grind it all off. Then I do the flapper method with progressively finer sandpaper to end up with a polished port which will resist carbon buildup in the future.
 
Slow down on that grinding wheel. Aluminum is different than magnesium. If you right y understand.

I'm thinking you mean that at high speed aluminum will stick to the grinder and clog it up. All I really do is grind off the carbon and get into the metal as little as possible. I used to use the sanding flap method on the carbon, but it took forever. Once the carbon is off, the flap polishing goes fairly quickly.
 
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