BC1500 - Auto Feed - Bogging self down

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Recreational_Lumberjack

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I have an 08, BC1500 that I just purchased. I am having issues with the auto feed in relation to stopping the branch before the Rpms drop too low. When I feed a branch 6” or more, the engine bogs itself down significantly before it stops and builds the rpms up. I notice though that it doesn’t allow the rpms to build all the way back up before it feeds again.

a friend of mine, who works for Vermeer in sales, said it may be that the belt needs tightening. That was the issue he had with his, although his is a 1250. He told me the handle that engages the drum should be pretty stiff to engage, whereas mine is very easy.

I am new to owning a chipper. I used this model once by rental and now I own it and used it once and this is the issue.

Thank You!
 
This is how its done on the BC100o the 1500 may be similar.
Instead of adjusting to compensate for a worn belt why not replace it. Compared to some other parts on this chipper the belt is not that expensive.
If you have not already done so register your chipper on the Vermeer web site. They will supply most manuals free of charge.
 
I have an 08, BC1500 that I just purchased. I am having issues with the auto feed in relation to stopping the branch before the Rpms drop too low. When I feed a branch 6” or more, the engine bogs itself down significantly before it stops and builds the rpms up. I notice though that it doesn’t allow the rpms to build all the way back up before it feeds again.

a friend of mine, who works for Vermeer in sales, said it may be that the belt needs tightening. That was the issue he had with his, although his is a 1250. He told me the handle that engages the drum should be pretty stiff to engage, whereas mine is very easy.

I am new to owning a chipper. I used this model once by rental and now I own it and used it once and this is the issue.

Thank You!
Been there with my BC1000

the autofeed has a number of factors that make it work. First, the engine RPMs have to be at their high end working speed, nothing in the feed. Once the branch feeds in, the engine will bog down due to the work load , the feed will stop if the RPMs drop to the low end, the engine revs back up and the process repeats. Keep in mind whats bogging down the engine other than the log.

Blades need to be sharp. They don't have to have a factory razor edge to work but the duller the blades are, the more stress the system has on it to do the work. Think of the work you would need to do to cut a tough steak with a dull knife as opposed to a sharp one. Duller blades, more stress on the engine, the RPMs drop.

Belt tension is probably where you are though. Even with sharp blades, if the belt is loose, it's not reacting to the slower engine/drum RPMs and thus the autofeed doesn't kick in at the proper RPM drop. Initially, you don't need to replace the belt. The posted video is instructive but there's more to it. Check your manual first for the proper tensions of the belt once adjusted. On the BC1000, as shown on the video, the cover comes off the machine to access the components. Look at the mechanism while you adjust the tensioner lever above to see what your trying to fix. There's a link between the tensioner arm and the drive shaft for the lower pulley of the belt. That's what you're going to adjust. Loosen the upper and lower lock nuts. Remember, they loosen opposite ways to each other, don't strip them. (been there too) With the tensioning lever in the slack position, turn the turnbuckle making it shorter thus increasing the tension. Engage the tensioner lever and check your tension using a torque wrench, mines 1'2" drive, inserted into the butt end of the tensioner lever bolt. You'll see it, square 1/2" hole. Check your manual for the tension you need. If you need to adjust the tension more, let the lever back to slack, adjust the turnbuckle, and repeat the process with the torque wrench. Once you're at the prescribed tension, loosen the lever back to slack, tighten the lock nuts without turning the turnbuckle, check again with the torque wrench, and replace outside cover to the components.

If you still have problems, you may have an electrical issue which I have no clue on.

Good luck:cheers:
 
@capetrees & Mrhemihead,

Guys, thank you for the video and feedback. Before I bought it the gentleman I bought from put new blades and belt on it and really went over and took care of a lot of the inevitable, needed, maintenance. I know they didn’t run it in the field though so they did not catch the auto feed issue.

I really appreciate the video and will definitely do what you suggested. I will post to let you know if that was it!
 
The autofeed droop value is factory set using a resistor pack that is changeable. Typically its factory set at 2400 rpm, the feed rollers should stop and momentarily reverse at that speed. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing the machine in operation. Have a listen to compare with yours.

The BC1000 has a magnetic pickup at the engine flywheel, which sends the rpm signal to the controller. If your machine has a functioning tachometer the speed signal is OK as is.
Some of the larger machines derive the speed signal from the alternator, there is no magnetic pickup with those models.

Since the belt was changed and blades sharpened it could be a simple adjustment as shown in the video. Your 1500 chipper should munch a 10" branch without effort.
 
New belts need frequent adjusting until they wear in. Sounds like that's what may have happened. The engine probably is running at its RPM parameters for the auto feed. It's just that your disk is not getting up to speed due to belt slippage. Other posters that said the same thing.
 
Upon inspection this morning I noticed something. It looks like there is a spring that appears to hold the clutch in when engaged. When I looked it was disconnected and I noticed when I engaged the clutch there was slop in it because the spring wasn’t holding it in place. I also noticed that the spring is way to big.

Could this be the issue and not the belt?5D50BD4E-7B3C-4EB2-BADB-6ADF91F557D2.jpeg5D50BD4E-7B3C-4EB2-BADB-6ADF91F557D2.jpeg F6D447F4-9620-4040-BE52-525F55087FB5.jpegF6D447F4-9620-4040-BE52-525F55087FB5.jpeg
 
The autofeed droop value is factory set using a resistor pack that is changeable. Typically its factory set at 2400 rpm, the feed rollers should stop and momentarily reverse at that speed. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing the machine in operation. Have a listen to compare with yours.

The BC1000 has a magnetic pickup at the engine flywheel, which sends the rpm signal to the controller. If your machine has a functioning tachometer the speed signal is OK as is.
Some of the larger machines derive the speed signal from the alternator, there is no magnetic pickup with those models.

Since the belt was changed and blades sharpened it could be a simple adjustment as shown in the video. Your 1500 chipper should munch a 10" branch without effort.
 
Right. I definitely know there is something going on. It doesn’t sound anything like what I was used to hearing with the one I rented earlier.

Thank you
 
The BC1000 clutch arrangement is different but it seems the spring is to help pull the arm to the idle position.
My spring is broken and it works fine as is.

Is there any issue when manually reversing the feed rollers? If the reverse valve is sluggish the material may remain in contact with the cutter drum, when autofeed is active.
 
The BC1000 clutch arrangement is different but it seems the spring is to help pull the arm to the idle position.
My spring is broken and it works fine as is.

When you say pull into idle position that the spring is compressed into disengagement?

In this setup the spring pulls (compresses) into engagement

So, it is “keeping” the clutch engaged.
 
The BC1000 clutch arrangement is different but it seems the spring is to help pull the arm to the idle position.
My spring is broken and it works fine as is.

Is there any issue when manually reversing the feed rollers? If the reverse valve is sluggish the material may remain in contact with the cutter drum, when autofeed is active.
I didn’t notice anything with the reverse on feed rollers. They seem to work just as good in reverse as they do in the forward position. That is good to know though.
 
Great so the controller should be getting the signal to operate auto feed. There could be a fault with the controller, but it's a pricey item for shotgun troubleshooting.
Does your machine have the info light above the feed table? It blinks when an interlock requires resetting, otherwise it should be off.

If there is a Vermeer dealer nearby they will be happy to take your $$. Most have field service reps who come to you. If you remove they can ship the controller to Vermeer for testing.

Fortunately I have been able to resolve any issues with DIY fixes.
 
Great so the controller should be getting the signal to operate auto feed. There could be a fault with the controller, but it's a pricey item for shotgun troubleshooting.
Does your machine have the info light above the feed table? It blinks when an interlock requires resetting, otherwise it should be off.

If there is a Vermeer dealer nearby they will be happy to take your $$. Most have field service reps who come to you. If you remove they can ship the controller to Vermeer for testing.

Fortunately I have been able to resolve any issues with DIY fixes.

haha! Yeah, damn them! I have been referred to a former vermeer tech who opened his own shop I will take it too.

I appreciate your back and forth with me on this. It sucks when things don’t work like there supposed to! Lol
 
I was diagnostic tech in an unrelated industry for 35 years, now retired. It was a pleasure to troubleshoot remotely, while not being pressured by a paying customer to get it fixed or else.

Please report back to this thread, when your indy Vermeer Tech has this resolved.
 
Well, I took my machine in today to the closest Vermeer dealer, in Goodfield Illinois, and the belt needed tightened. It was extremely loose, which I was able to determine after feeling the appropriate tension applied by the tech.

I didn’t get a chance to try it out because one thing lead to another and I ended up having to get a new drum.

Replacing the cover bolts to the access of the cover for the knives, lead to the discovery that one of the knives was missing a bolt, which lead to the discovery that the bolt broke, which lead to the removal of the knife and block replacement that the bolt tightens into, which then lead to the observation that the knives had not been properly maintained over the years and the spot where the knife bolts to was not completely flat which means the knife would have a slight rocking when set in position.

I will say that the Vermeer service department in Goodfield have been fantastic to work with inspite of some of the horror stories I have heard from people who have used other Vermeer service locations. 6567EC9B-556D-4474-BED1-875A61C4CF47.jpeg93E49789-B2C6-4652-82FB-4BB4467B4FFC.jpeg787A137F-F5AF-45D7-B1D0-E0A326DBED79.jpeg
 
Thank you for this!! Often we receive no feedback.
Seemed odd that it was bogging down with a 6" branch. Now it will likely require a much larger branch for auto feed to activate.

Its puzzling why a machine owner would not perform basic maintenance to protect their investment. Vermeer drums with broken welds and out of balance drums are not uncommon. Hopefully the seller will cover some of this cost or you purchased at a giveaway price.

How many hours on the clock?
 
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