40 year old Partner bar/chain advice

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challenger

Cheese is good.
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Hampstead, NC
My old partner now has a bent and worn bar that needs replacing. The bar has outdated numbers that I can't cross over exactly but I'm pretty sure I need a .325 pitch .058 bar/chain 18" long. The original chain is a Carlton with k2 on the links.
Thanks for helping.
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Buy whatever is easier to get chain for. If your local shop has more .050 than .058, buy a .325 .050 bar.

The .050 will have lower reciprocating mass, so maybe a fuzz faster, but the advantage to the .058 is it clears chips out of the bar groove better. The .050 is more prone to load up and jam a chain. Depends on type of wood though.
 
Thanks!
I'll likely stay with the same size bar and chain. I got the saw with an 18" bar which is probably the max for the saw but it's served me well. Going to a 16" is a reasonable option if it is noticeably cheaper. I'll probably check my local Ace Hardware store to see what they have.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
My old partner now has a bent and worn bar that needs replacing. The bar has outdated numbers that I can't cross over exactly but I'm pretty sure I need a .325 pitch .058 bar/chain 18" long. The original chain is a Carlton with k2 on the links.
Thanks for helping.
865330259c5246da3efd25a1641b78b5.jpg
ea47e5fe4edc5bf0cb9a51afec509d5a.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

What is damaged on your bar challenger? Those Windsor bars are made of much better materials than many replacement bars made today, it looks to me that that bar can be reconditioned very easily unless the nose sprocket is ruined.
 
What is damaged on your bar challenger? Those Windsor bars are made of much better materials than many replacement bars made today, it looks to me that that bar can be reconditioned very easily unless the nose sprocket is ruined.
I can try to explain the problem. The chain binds and sticks even when it's loose. If I move it in the normal direction it will start off loose but then bind up. Force it backward and it frees up. I got the tip stuck in a fallen pine tree and it seems to have started then. The nose looks like it has a flat spot and the chain doesn't lay against the tip when it's binding. It's a very weird problem for me but I'm sure someone here has experienced something similar.
I thought a chain should be changed when a new bar is put on a saw?
Thanks all.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
I can try to explain the problem. The chain binds and sticks even when it's loose. If I move it in the normal direction it will start off loose but then bind up. Force it backward and it frees up. I got the tip stuck in a fallen pine tree and it seems to have started then. The nose looks like it has a flat spot and the chain doesn't lay against the tip when it's binding. It's a very weird problem for me but I'm sure someone here has experienced something similar.
I thought a chain should be changed when a new bar is put on a saw?
Thanks all.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Take a good look at the drive sprocket on the clutch first, binding when moving the chain ahead but allowing it to run normally when moving it backwards smacks of a worn rim or sprocket, just one thing to eliminate first. I have yet to see a Windsor bar I could not re rehabilitate.
 
Take a good look at the drive sprocket on the clutch first, binding when moving the chain ahead but allowing it to run normally when moving it backwards smacks of a worn rim or sprocket, just one thing to eliminate first. I have yet to see a Windsor bar I could not re rehabilitate.
That concerns me too. I'll check it out. Any pointers on a replacement if needed? Thanks.

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Here are a few photos of the bar, chain and drive sprocket. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Obviously the neglected floating rim needs to be replaced but has this likely also ruined the chain and bar?

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