16"/18" bar on MS362?

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colson04

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I've been running a 20" bar on MS362 for the past 7 years and I'm not totally convinced it is necessary or most efficient for this power head. I don't think it's a power head issue. My father in law runs a MS362 that's a bit newer with a 20" bar also and both saws cut about the same.

My 20" bar is fairly new, but my chains are getting to the point of needing replacement. Right now I have 20 chord of logs to process in the 10-18" diameter range and I'm thinking about down sizing my bar and chain since I need to get replacement chains anyways.

Has anyone run a MS362/361/360/036 with a 16" or 18" bar? What are your thoughts? I rarely cut large diameter wood, and I would still have my 20" bar and chains as backup for when I do.
 
A 60cc saw will run a 16/18/20" bar just fine. Well within the realm of reasonable bar choices.

Not sure why you think it wouldn't. Do you have any specific concerns?


I personally wouldn't buy a new bar....the 20" is perfectly fine and gives you more reach with the saw. Saw has plenty of power to pull a 20" bar.
 
I run a 20" bar on my ms290 with 3/8" chisel and it cuts great. I did run an 18" but the chains had to be built at the dealer. I can buy 20" (72dl) anywhere, and a good savings.

Just a thought, or a comment; You got to keep the chains sharp, and with the smaller saws you can't apply a whole lot of leverage.
 
Personally I like the shortest bar that will do the job. I generally run an 18" on my 036 and other 60cc saws. I'd probably use a 16" bar for what you're describing. It's always good to have a backup bar, and having a 16 and a 20 would be a good combo.
 
I'm not saying they won't be fine pulling 20" but the two v1 m-tronic 362s I built this year were better suited to 18" bars. They were pretty much stock with the muffler opened a little.
 
You might be bumping on the rev limiter with a short bar. I run my saws wide open, so if your a half throttle operator than it may not be an issue.
You could file the rakers .030 +/- to add some extra load or put a load on it with cant/pressure.
I'm not schooled on sprocket changes, so that may be an option also.
 
You might be bumping on the rev limiter with a short bar. I run my saws wide open, so if your a half throttle operator than it may not be an issue.
You could file the rakers .030 +/- to add some extra load or put a load on it with cant/pressure.
I'm not schooled on sprocket changes, so that may be an option also.
Your chain would have to be in pretty poor condition for this to be an issue.
 
The saw handles the 20" bar fine. My chains aren't destroyed, just getting to the point where there isn't much meat left to sharpen. I maintain my equipment well, touch up my chains frequently throughout a day, and always sharpen at the beginning of every day. I'm looking for a bit more performance without dropping $1000 on a 70cc saw. Buying a bar and a couple chains for ~$100 isn't going to break my checkbook if it ends up being a flop of an idea. Should it make an improvement in my current situation, then I'm that much further ahead.

I just wanted to bounce the idea around and see if others are doing it and what their thoughts are about it. I appreciate everyone's opinion that chimed in. I stopped by my local dealer just a bit ago, picked up a 16" Stihl bar and 4 chains for under $100. I'll give it a shot and see what I think tomorrow morning. Worst case, I return the unused chains, and keep the rest for a backup.
 
The saw handles the 20" bar fine. My chains aren't destroyed, just getting to the point where there isn't much meat left to sharpen. I maintain my equipment well, touch up my chains frequently throughout a day, and always sharpen at the beginning of every day. I'm looking for a bit more performance without dropping $1000 on a 70cc saw. Buying a bar and a couple chains for ~$100 isn't going to break my checkbook if it ends up being a flop of an idea. Should it make an improvement in my current situation, then I'm that much further ahead.

I just wanted to bounce the idea around and see if others are doing it and what their thoughts are about it. I appreciate everyone's opinion that chimed in. I stopped by my local dealer just a bit ago, picked up a 16" Stihl bar and 4 chains for under $100. I'll give it a shot and see what I think tomorrow morning. Worst case, I return the unused chains, and keep the rest for a backup.

Sounds like what you are cutting will now fully bury the B&C. I don't see why the extra 4 inches that otherwise would have been hanging out in the air, would alter the cutting performance. Only advantage is the weight savings. Most here will do almost anything or spend all, to save an ounce. Some members here claim to hike deep into the wilderness to cut trails, and every ounce matters, so they say. If that is your motivation then you will likely be happy with the change.
 
Dance with who.....uh....I mean, I just use what came with the saw normally.

I do like the balance of 18" bar on my 50 and 60cc saws. And it kinda looks tougher.
But I like that a longer bar can make a longer cut.

If I were to have a 362, and not have any other 50, 60, or 70cc saws, I think I'd want both 18 and 25 inch bars.
 
I have an unmodified v2 362CM and 18" and 24" (stihl 25") bars for them. The 25 is too long. The balance is not good and the saw can't put out enough oil for it. And it does not have enough power to cut with a 24". It'll do it but it's slow. I haven't run one but I think 20" would be about perfect for that saw. 18" is fine if it fits your wood. 16" seems like it'd be short.
 
I run an 18" Tsumura on my MS360 Pro. Loads of oil and power with that bar length...

But I also run a 20" on my 461 and only a 28" on my ported 066. Guess I'm weird?
 
We have 3 of the 362s, all have 24" bars on them. They handle that just fine.

Sure a bit slower and can't lean into it as much as with the 460/462s we also have, but they handle it just fine.

I like that length, I don't have to bend or reach as much as with a short bar but it's not so long to be overly expensive for chains.
 
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