Saws with carb boots yea or ney?

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Huskybill

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Do you stay away from used non running saws with carb boots? Yea or ney?

I guess we have many generations of the intake designs. We have the solid carb manifold mount to the cylinder, then the rubber boot mount with the clamp, then the fresh air port added.
Any thoughts if the rubber boot is prone to air leaks and failures?
 
An apology is so easy compared to the alternative... just my two cents if I had it.
 
Hmmm, you accused me of being a web troll.

That's a serious accusation.
 
I have absolutely nothing to apologize for. I reported you. Do not bring this nonsense into other people's threads please.

I wonder if someone spits in "your" face you'd take it as a friendly gesture or an insult. That's just an honest question I ask myself.
 
Bill, look up their profiles and recent posts. Major general fool's is hidden, Tree Freak not hidden. Users are supposed to report infractions of the terms of use, at least not act like a moderator. Management seems to allow hostility towards those who do.

As for your question, some anti vibe could be too flexible for the carb mounting. Whether that is an easy fix, then be gentle or avoid would be a similar topic.
 
Ignoring the drama, I'd say that boots are better. I also prefer impulse lines over impulse ports. Strato saws run hotter, and intake blocks transfer more heat to the carb, getting the fuel hotter sooner. The cooler the fuel, the wider the max power rpm range.
That being said, I've never let either decide a good saw from bad. It wouldn't deter me.
 
It will do, if she had a fishing rod we’d be bass fishing? Maybe some hip waders?
 
Is black cat performance missing his boots?
Probably. It might be a bad night for him. Arctic blast came in tonight. Very few wethermen forcasted it. That's typical in my book. No one knows when a boot will split either. When it does, the air leak can rather quickly burn out the engine that runs hot from the extra air. We can always blame it on aftermarket parts.
 
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