Stihl 261c rim sprocket.

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jonsereds 621

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A very simple question with perhaps no simple answer. I would like to swap out my rim drive clutch drum on a stihl 261c from Stihl to Oregon. I'm told that while the Oregon rim clutch for a 026 will fit, it is not actually satisfactory. It appears that Oregon do not actually manufacture a rim clutch system for the Stihl 261c......I find this difficult to believe....But this is my best information at the moment.
Would anyone who actually knows care to "lighten my darkness" ?? I'm in the uk, I think we are mostly metric.....for now! Thanks.
 
The only reason to do it is so you can switch from micro spline rim size (I.D-17mm) to regular small spline (I.D-19mm). Which is a good reason as those rims are more accessible and cheaper. The ms260 & ms261 share the same clutch size/crank shaft diameter I believe, just make sure drum has cutout for oiler gear.
 
Interesting.... The 026 drum(Oregon with oil drive on my 026) which seems to fit the 261 perfectly was my original thought so I tried it, fits fine and appears to be correct. However when I ordered a fresh drum I explained it was for a 261 not an 026 (online) and got a note back to say it's not suitable.......if I use Oregon hub on 261 I have an array of rims here for pretty much any chain I might wish to run. I have only one worn out rim on the 261 ( Stihl, new to me) and it would seem rather than buy all Stihl rims I would switch to Oregon and save a bit due to interchangeability also most convenient. I don't know if the 261 crank might or might not be the same / similar / identical....or in fact perhaps a 026 /260 crank.
While I am airing this, the plastic / fibre roller clutch bearing looks distinctly unlikely with very short rollers. I have noted that the 026 little end roller bearing would fit for more support in this clutch which has proved troublesome for some.....anybody tried this ? My 026 clutch bearing (all metal) has lasted me 30 + yrs, with intermittent attention, so why the switch to something that appears to be inferior ? Mind you, I am not in the habit of leaving my saw ticking over with the brake on as this is giving a good dose of sideways loading with very limited lubrication. This I would have thought was just the recipe for premature wear. I am an agricultural user with a fascination for very well designed equipment, in my opinion, a fibre/ plastic type cage bearing here is a recipe for disaster......or am I missing something?
 
Do you mean something like this? This clutch drum and rim sprocket set from Oregon should fit the MS 261.
https://www.kox-direct.de/Stihl-260/Ringrad-inkl-Antriebsring

It says Stihl 260 in that link but it also fits the MS 261. It is the .325" 7t sprocket setup.
Yes, thanks...it fits as I borrowed my 026 Oregon rim setup to try on 261 stihl, it fits fine in my opinion, but when I ordered one online the response was...there are certain differences. It could easily be seller didn't know, or it could be I missed something....but I doubt it. It is simpler for me in uk to use Oregon rims (bought online) as they are "less" expensive. The 261 has been around for some time here,( but it seems ) Oregon don't make a rim drive specifically for it, most likely because it's clutch assembly is the same on both (interchangeable). If so, why don't Oregon state as so ?
I bought a used 261 (the bay) more out of interest than need, 2017 autotrophic or whatever they call it, it seems to work just like it "says on the tin"....quite a pleasure actually. I'd just like to be able to use from my existing supply of rims.
 
I was in the same situation last week while shopping for 3/8 7 rim for the 261 as my Stihl dealer was out of stock.
So I inquired about Oregon at Husky. Appears husky doesn’t do Oregon, but rather husky branded Oregon.
Anyway, on a hunch I bought two rims, but they only would fit my 346 and slightly larger than what the 261 needs.
Dealers love it when you walk in with the correct part number.
 
I was in the same situation last week while shopping for 3/8 7 rim for the 261 as my Stihl dealer was out of stock.
So I inquired about Oregon at Husky. Appears husky doesn’t do Oregon, but rather husky branded Oregon.
Anyway, on a hunch I bought two rims, but they only would fit my 346 and slightly larger than what the 261 needs.
Dealers love it when you walk in with the correct part number.
Ha....thought it was just me ! Mind you, I thought you Americans were better organised than the Brits but perhaps chainsaw parts (getting the right bit) is an acquired ability. Perseverance, persistance, determination and a pleasure gained from getting it right eventually, comes with age don't you think.....and then is lost. If you get bored with chainsaws, try switching to old combines, mind you, I did it the other way around. Either is best worked on in the winter.
 
Ha....thought it was just me ! Mind you, I thought you Americans were better organised than the Brits but perhaps chainsaw parts (getting the right bit) is an acquired ability. Perseverance, persistance, determination and a pleasure gained from getting it right eventually, comes with age don't you think.....and then is lost. If you get bored with chainsaws, try switching to old combines, mind you, I did it the other way around. Either is best worked on in the winter.

Cough ... cough ... ahem ... Many years ago I had a girlfriend in London that used to lump Canadians in with the general term "Americans". While I have many fine friends from the good old USA . . . Yukon Territory /Gyppo Logger - it's Canadian eh! :p
 
The only thing I can think of is that a standard 260/026 drum won't have the cutout for the pump drive as the pump is crank driven, while one for a 026/260 pro with the adjustable oiler will, so that should work fine on the 261.
 
Speaking of the 261C, does anyone know how to get more oil to the bar other than maximizing adjustment screw? It only uses half the tank with all inlets and outlets free and clear with 16” bar.
 
Speaking of the 261C, does anyone know how to get more oil to the bar other than maximizing adjustment screw? It only uses half the tank with all inlets and outlets free and clear with 16” bar.

That's interesting ... As I've been focused on counting start-up pulls, I haven't been paying close attention to oil consumption. I have my oiler set to lower than max range and so far haven't felt the need for more oil in maple,birch and fir. That said the radius of choice for the oiler seems pretty narrow.

Like you, I'm running a 16" bar.
 
That's interesting ... As I've been focused on counting start-up pulls, I haven't been paying close attention to oil consumption. I have my oiler set to lower than max range and so far haven't felt the need for more oil in maple,birch and fir. That said the radius of choice for the oiler seems pretty narrow.

Like you, I'm running a 16" bar.
The stuff I’m cutting is only 5” average, all 20 acres of it, so maybe the saws not seeing enough revolutions, or maybe I’m on the break too much. Lol
 
The stuff I’m cutting is only 5” average, all 20 acres of it, so maybe the saws not seeing enough revolutions, or maybe I’m on the break too much. Lol

hmmmm ... ya I'm typically cutting 12+" wood with this saw, some branches, but mostly flat out with almost entire bar buried in logs so that could be the difference. If I get up the hill over the holidays, I'll take a closer look at oil consumption and get back. I'm running .325 not 3/8

keep your thumb off the brake :D
 
hmmmm ... ya I'm typically cutting 12+" wood with this saw, some branches, but mostly flat out with almost entire bar buried in logs so that could be the difference. If I get up the hill over the holidays, I'll take a closer look at oil consumption and get back. I'm running .325 not 3/8

keep your thumb off the brake :D
In response to how to increase oil flow on 261, I too feel this is an area where it is possibly lacking. Doing what research I could I found on you tube a short clip on this. The guts of it was as follows :- guy with camera reads from instruction sheet (new) If full flow from pump is inadequate it may be increased by using a small punch to drive in peg adjoining adjustment screw ( i see it is indeed there ) which he proceeds to do. three very light taps and oil flow adjuster screw can then go maybe 1/8 turn more up. Seems unlikely to me so I have not tried it. Explanation was this is to hold back max oil flow in line with emissions etc requirements. might be right, might not-- make your own choice but my first check was inlet screen. Anyone got a new saw with ......INSTRUCTIONS.
 
In response to how to increase oil flow on 261, I too feel this is an area where it is possibly lacking. Doing what research I could I found on you tube a short clip on this. The guts of it was as follows :- guy with camera reads from instruction sheet (new) If full flow from pump is inadequate it may be increased by using a small punch to drive in peg adjoining adjustment screw ( i see it is indeed there ) which he proceeds to do. three very light taps and oil flow adjuster screw can then go maybe 1/8 turn more up. Seems unlikely to me so I have not tried it. Explanation was this is to hold back max oil flow in line with emissions etc requirements. might be right, might not-- make your own choice but my first check was inlet screen. Anyone got a new saw with ......INSTRUCTIONS.
I was told that by a fellow member that I could do that to my 462. He showed me the pin. I looked for it on my 261 yesterday when the question was brought up but couldn't see the pin. Damn bifocals . Let me look in my manual.
 
The stuff I’m cutting is only 5” average, all 20 acres of it, so maybe the saws not seeing enough revolutions, or maybe I’m on the break too much. Lol

You're probably spending more time idling and not turning the oil pump.

If the bar is being oiled properly, it doesn't really matter how much oil you have left at the end of a tank.
 
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