Heating it up In the bedroom.

[SamT1]

Lol those shirts are just hanging on the trim. Ups brought them. I got a huge score off poshmark $20 for 6 shirts 3X tall gold labels!

 

[Short timer]

That’s the wall we are going to take out. Kitchen is on the other side of it. The closet looking room there is a formal dining room. It’s bigger than it looks. 10x26. We are going to take it in on one end to make a pantry.

the closet looking room has huge return air vents. I have them 3/4 blocked so it pulls out of the hall by the bedrooms. That fixed my heater /AC distribution issue I had before.

there is easy access to the wall in the addition opposite the fireplace, but I’d assume it’s a lot farther than optimal.

Why does it step up? Is that crawl space under there?

 

[SamT1]

Why does it step up? Is that crawl space under there?

Yes, that’s where the original house starts.

the original house has crawl space and attic access

If I could find a skinny 12 year old that’s kinda savvy they could access the ducting in the addition. I mean I could get creative and cut a hole and maybe fish some 4 or 6 PVC through the window up through the hole maybe. I’ve only looked once at it, (moved in in august) but I don’t think even a small man could slither around in there between the truss wood and ducting that’s there.

 

[Short timer]

Are those two returns on the wall higher than the ceiling in the dining room, as in can you see them in the attic? If so, all you have to do is add another one in the middle to connect the new insulated flex duct and run it to wherever you want to run it through the attic, just like I did. My intake is in the ceiling, yours would be on the wall.

 

[SamT1]

Are those two returns on the wall higher than the ceiling in the dining room, as in can you see them in the attic? If so, all you have to do is add another one in the middle to connect the new insulated flex duct and run it to wherever you want to run it through the attic, just like I did. My vent is in the ceiling, yours would be on the wall.

Yes I could easily add another duct. I just thought back there would be too far to do good with. Would you push or pull from there?

 

[captjack]

well this post is not what I was expecting ....... carry on

 

[Short timer]

Yes I could easily add another duct. I just thought back there would be too far to do good with. Would you push or pull from there?

Pull, since there’s tons of wasted heat up there and the bedrooms are so far away.

I’m not sure what you mean by “too far”. Too far away from the insert? If that’s what you mean, heck no it ain’t.

I explained what I did here. Think of a bathroom exhaust fan sucking the hot air out of that room and exhausting it to a different spot. That’s all you would be doing except the fan would be in the flex ducting.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/heating-it-up-in-the-bedroom.338281/#post-7113301

Instead of your intake for the flex duct/in line duct fan being in the ceiling like mine, yours would be in that wall between the two existing returns.

 

[Short timer]

I would put this right between those 2 returns in the wall if the studs are 16” on center.

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Round-Transition-14x14-square/dp/B01DLDARIC

Run 8 inch insulated flex ducting to a quality in-line duct fan with plenty of CFM, control the flow with a rheostat or a thermostatically controlled switch, continue on with the insulated ducting and add whatever registers in the ceilings of whatever cold rooms you want to.

You would be done in a day or two including the electric.

 

[sb47]

My house is a fairly open design except for the bath and bedroom so I just use 2 fans to move the air around a bit. One blows across the side of the stove and the other pushes the rest around the main living area. I like my bedroom cooler so it being separated works perfect for me. The bedroom stays about 10/15 degrees lower then the rest of the house.

 

[SamT1]

I would put this right between those 2 returns in the wall if the studs are 16” on center.

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Round-Transition-14x14-square/dp/B01DLDARIC

Run 8 inch insulated flex ducting to a quality in-line duct fan with plenty of CFM, control the flow with a rheostat or a thermostatically controlled switch, continue on with the insulated ducting and add whatever registers in the ceilings of whatever cold rooms you want to.

You would be done in a day or two including the electric.

Easy enough. I’ll try it.

 

[Del_]

Easy enough. I’ll try it.

I like Short Timers idea.

It occured to me that those two return air ducts if enlarged and the other return opening in the other room were to be closed off, then your AC circulation system could be utilized. A high return is good for AC as it draws the warmest air out. The high returns also work good for moving the wood stove heat around due to their being high and in the same room as the wood stove. Once the wood stove heat gets into the ductwork it gets distributed through the house.

 

[Short timer]

I like Short Timers idea.

It occured to me that those two return air ducts if enlarged and the other return opening in the other room were to be closed off, then your AC circulation system could be utilized. A high return is good for AC as it draws the warmest air out. The high returns also work good for moving the wood stove heat around due to their being high and in the same room as the wood stove. Once the wood stove heat gets into the ductwork it gets distributed through the house.

I had the same thought but I’m under the impression the bedrooms are a different zone than that room. Maybe I’m misunderstanding and they are not.

As in he has two electric forced hot air furnaces and two A/C units and separate ducting. I could very well be way off on this assumption.

 

[SamT1]

I had the same thought but I’m under the impression the bedrooms are a different zone than that room. Maybe I’m misunderstanding and they are not.

As in he has two electric forced hot air furnaces and two A/C units and separate ducting. I could very well be way off on this assumption.

That’s right, 2 units. One does the big room and the other does the rest of the house.

 

[Short timer]

That’s right, 2 units. One does the big room and the other does the rest of the house.

Not to be rude, but your posts are causing a lot of confusion for me, I’m trying to decipher your current setup and feel I’m making a lot of assumptions, and I believe I’m not the only one.

Here’s some clarifying questions.

Are your ”electric heat units” forced hot air that utilizes the same ducting as the A/C?

Are the two separate zones on separate ducting systems?

Because like @Del_ said, just run your A/C on fan only to distribute the air if it’s all the same ducting.

 

[svk]

My old farm house had a small pot belly stove in the master bedroom. Trust me, you don’t want a wood burner in the bedroom. It just ends up being too much heat.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

for me, it's a wood burning fireplace in the MBR. it! I don't have to worry about the SO complaining about wood chips or ash... because I don't allow any of it to be come an issue. and I make plenty of ash. but when cleaning, no ash allowed! no ash dust!

my MBR fireplace...

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

So I prefer to just snuggle, but the wife does not. House is 100% electric, 2 units, 2500sqft. Do y’all think that’s an option to buy a pellet/corn stove and run it on a thermostat in my bedroom? Room is 20x15 other bedrooms are smaller and down the hall. I’d burn all corn, not interesting in buying pellets. I could probably plant 3 acres and feed my freezer beefs, bait a few deer and run that heater all winter.

not sure, but sounds to me like the room gets cold. and elec heating sys does not zone heat as u might desire. that is a big BR. the least expensive route would be to preheat the room with couple of tower radiator heaters. I use one in the MBR up at my farm. I like to preheat the room, vs getting into bed and me being the heater! lol. works great. really like its contribution. I use it in tandem with the HVAC system. the bedroom radiator elec heater set higher than house. I start it a few hours before lights out. real toasty! cold nights and its pj's for me, too. and I also use down comforter, too. cozy! during cool months we also change to flannel sheets. match for pillows, too. that is a home run in cold weather. totally changes the ball game! if you walk around house barefoot, u mite want to consider slippers. I like my flannel slippers...

 

[Capitalist]

Nuff said.

 

[Short timer]

View attachment 782252

Nuff said.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

No codes here. I can add a carbon monoxide detector to the room if needed.

A friend of mine had a pellet stove in his shop that was just vented out the wall like a dryer kinda. Is that right? Do you even need anything under it? You’d think since it’s all contained I wouldn’t need any tile or anything under it. Floor is hard wood.

Where do you live where there aren't codes? Most countries have building, electrical and plumbing codes.