Ryobi 37cc RY3714 bogs down under any load?

[glenintenn]

I have a 3 year old Ryobi 37cc 14" chainsaw. Things were working pretty well until I was cutting down a 6" Mimosa tree last season. The mimosa snapped about half way through the hinge cut (I was trying to cut it so I could push it over a different direction than it was leaning) and pinched the bar really hard. I don't know how that's related but that's when my troubles with the saw started. I got it out without issue using another saw. it started this engine cutting out thing and I thought maybe the bar was bent (it started bogging down big time when straight cutting through 3 - 5" trees, it wanted to cut in a slightly curved path or it would cut out) so I bought a new bar for it. No change. it still wants to cut in a curved path or it cuts out.

The main symptom is that under any load now, the thing bogs down and will stall... especially on side cuts. I've been trying to clear about 10 acres of junk wood mixed in with mature trees. it was let grow over for a long time so there are lots of 2" and 3" trees mixed in with brush and larger trees. Trying to cut out those 3" trees used to work like a charm with this saw but now it gets about an inch into one of those things and then it just really starts having a hard time of it (without any binding). It's almost like it's working against itself...as though the chain brake is starting to engage (I have no idea if that's what it is... just the behavior is "like" that... it's not completely stopping but even at high revs it just starts bogging down with any cutting load ).

Air filter is clean as the day I bought it. no junk. no swill. no building up in the sprocket area -- i checked it before and after replacing the bar.

I realize this is a cheap-o saw and probably not worth a lot of time. Just wondered what the troubleshooting steps might be for this sort of behavior ?

 

[lostone]

You said last season. Did you just store it without setting it up for storage? I run a saw and warm up the engine and then drain tank and just start it with no choke and no hitting the throttle and let it idle until it dies then try a restart. If it doesn't restart then it's ready for storage.

Could be you just need a carb. rebuild if it was stored with fuel left in it.

 

[Allen K]

You changed the bar but did you change or check the condition of the chain?



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[glenintenn]

You changed the bar but did you change or check the condition of the chain?

Looks ok... no bends... no teeth chewed up or anything but I suppose... that's something I didn't replace.

 

[glenintenn]

You said last season. Did you just store it without setting it up for storage? I run a saw and warm up the engine and then drain tank and just start it with no choke and no hitting the throttle and let it idle until it dies then try a restart. If it doesn't restart then it's ready for storage.

Could be you just need a carb. rebuild if it was stored with fuel left in it.

Good point. This last season wasn't an issue since it was started every month or so but the season prior, it may have sat over the winter. I only use real gas... there are a couple of mom and pop stations near my house which have a non-ethanol fuel. That doesn't replace good maintenance practices though.

Would it be a matter of just taking the carb apart and cleaning with alcohol or ... is there more serious damage done by ethanol fuels than just clogging things up? Let me know if there's a favorite post on the ethanol fuel topic. Doubt I'm the first to ask but a quick search here didn't reveal a pinned post on that undoing ethanol damage... ?

 

[anlrolfe]

Ryobi rubber fuel parts $u(#
Check hoses, seals, gaskets & diaphragms

Problem tipping to side, fuel line in tank bends and if its cracked sucks vapor. I'd start checking there.
Could be crank seal. when tipped on side any end play or bearing slop cause vacuum leak.

 

[lostone]

Good point. This last season wasn't an issue since it was started every month or so but the season prior, it may have sat over the winter. I only use real gas... there are a couple of mom and pop stations near my house which have a non-ethanol fuel. That doesn't replace good maintenance practices though.

Would it be a matter of just taking the carb apart and cleaning with alcohol or ... is there more serious damage done by ethanol fuels than just clogging things up? Let me know if there's a favorite post on the ethanol fuel topic. Doubt I'm the first to ask but a quick search here didn't reveal a pinned post on that undoing ethanol damage... ?

I personally just order a rebuild kit, since they are so cheap, and do a sonic cleaning on my carfbs. but you can get away with using carb spray if you do it well enough. I'm betting the diaphragm has cracked or stretched by now and the passages could use a clean out. Inspect the fuel line and filter as well.

 

[glenintenn]

Funny thing is Home Depot is selling reconditioned versions again for $69 (YMMV - I think it depends on your local store having them?) . Of course, throwing good money after bad is just as dumb as it always was. I may try a couple of the things above for learning experience but don't hold out much hope that cheaply-built equipment like this is going to repair properly - or going to stand up to poor maintenance (my part in the jack up if it turns out to be carb-related).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Reconditioned-14-in-37cc-2-Cycle-Gas-Chainsaw-ZRRY3714/207078512

 

[glenintenn]

but you can get away with using carb spray if you do it well enough.

Ordered the carb kit but in the interest of starting simple, wondered which carb spray you've found works best for gas issues (theretically, I shouldn't have any ethanol-specific issues since I was consistently buying "real gas" but... who know if that's a load of marketing bull). Is there a one-spray-fits-all (scenarios) brand you'd recommend or different sprays for different issues?

 

[lostone]

Ordered the carb kit but in the interest of starting simple, wondered which carb spray you've found works best for gas issues (theretically, I shouldn't have any ethanol-specific issues since I was consistently buying "real gas" but... who know if that's a load of marketing bull). Is there a one-spray-fits-all (scenarios) brand you'd recommend or different sprays for different issues?

I buy whats on sale.

 

[glenintenn]

I buy whats on sale.

c'mon man. That's what got me into this [Ryobi] mess! haha.

 

[lostone]

Gumout and CRC if it's on sale. but like I said if all that is on sale is Oreilly brand then that is what I buy. All of them have done well for me. The best thing I have found is if you have a ultrasonic cleaner and Mean Green, and by the best I mean it saves me money since I don't use much carb. cleaner in a can after using an ultrasonic. Both will get the job done.

If the carb and kit have a welch plug make sure you pull the old one and clean in there and place the new one back in.

 

[lostone]

When it acts like it's binding up (or acting like the chain brake is engaging) have you turned the saw off and pulled it from the cut and tried turning the chain by hand around the bar? Also have you checked all the rivets to see if maybe one side of a strap let go when it got bound up? Checked all drive tangs are straight? Also how well is it oiling?
If you are binding up, more so when saw is on it's side from the sounds of it, is what is interesting to me. When the bar got pinched did the tree move to the side and up against the front of the saw?

 

[Thommo]

I would be checking the bolts on the bottom of the motor. They might have stretched when the saw got jammed which will cause it to run lean

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I would be checking the bolts on the bottom of the motor. They might have stretched when the saw got jammed which will cause it to run lean

These bolts of which you speak. Are they the ones that hold the crankcase halves together or the ones that attach the motor to the alloy frame?

 

[Andyshine77]

Bending the bar badly can pull hard enough to damage the sprocket drum and bend the crank. I would check the drum and sprocket for damage and excessive wear. I would also check the cranks runout to see if it's bent, I've seen this more than once.[emoji111]

 

[Chris-PA]

If it still cuts in a curve and you've replaced the bar then the chain is damaged. Possibly the side of the cutters hit something. The bog could be related to excessive load, but may be an unrelated tuning or fuel line issue. Look for cracks in the case on the clutch side, although the actual crankcase area is pretty far back from the bar mount studs.

I would be checking the bolts on the bottom of the motor. They might have stretched when the saw got jammed which will cause it to run lean

It's not a clamshell. This is basically the old GZ400 with a G3800 engine and a cat.

 

[TBS]

Its cheaper just to buy a new carburetor for these saws.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/153738980941

I'd start by getting a new chain first, get a set of carburetor adjusting tools off ebay too because because these saws are set a little lean from the factory. Ive got a 3714 and it has been a dead on reliable saw.

 

[North by Northwest]

Ethanol fouling issues can be easily inspected for as white flake deposits or gel like deposits within the carb circuits . If your carb has a inlet needle valve screen under the diaphragm also check there when your inspect the condition of the diaphragm for cracks or excessive distortion or sag . As mentioned any concentrated carb cleaner spray will expedite the carb cleaning , as will adding a ounce to fresh mixed fuel. Since the bar was pinched Andyshine77 advice as to inspecting the clutch drum or crank for run out would be prudent and easily checked . just my 2 cents !

 

[glenintenn]

If it still cuts in a curve and you've replaced the bar then the chain is damaged. Possibly the side of the cutters hit something. The bog could be related to excessive load, but may be an unrelated tuning or fuel line issue. Look for cracks in the case on the clutch side, although the actual crankcase area is pretty far back from the bar mount studs.

Well, sometimes the simplest fix is the most effective. The original bar pinch must have fried the chain. I guess that (and the old bar) was the issue all along. Replaced the chain and it was running through tough stuff pretty quickly.

See my separate post regarding this new chain getting screwed up within just a few cuts. 2nd chain put on ran the rest of today without issue until about the last hour.

The last hour or so of cutting the saw wanted to bog down again. the chain feels sharp to the bare hand but by end of day, even in dead, dry pine 10-11" in diameter, the saw had to be revved completely to cut through completely. After first putting the new chain on early in the day... this dry, soft wood cut pretty easily.

I'm wondering if the chain needs sharpened more often than "usual" because I'm cutting a lot of stuff down into leaves and occasionally touching wet dirt that it's taking enough out of the chain that sharpening needs to be done more often than normal. Obviously... not cutting into dirt on purpose or deeply but I'm cutting a ton of deadfalls here in the south and because of the climate here, the logs are sitting on the ground and partially rotting ... with a lot of 3 - 5" trees mixed with brush growing up around the deadfalls.