is this damaged cylinder usable?

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For general firewood cutting and work, yes, I would totally run that cylinder. For my self. I would not put that cylinder on a customers saw though, unless they specifically asked me to help them out on price due to financial hardship.

What caused the grooving? Broke ring? Needle bearing? Alignment pin?
 
For general firewood cutting and work, yes, I would totally run that cylinder. For my self. I would not put that cylinder on a customers saw though, unless they specifically asked me to help them out on price due to financial hardship.

What caused the grooving? Broke ring? Needle bearing? Alignment pin?
I brought the saw ( 039 ) for 10 USD hehe. He straight gassed it!
 
For general firewood cutting and work, yes, I would totally run that cylinder. For my self. I would not put that cylinder on a customers saw though, unless they specifically asked me to help them out on price due to financial hardship.

What caused the grooving? Broke ring? Needle bearing? Alignment pin?
Thanks mate :) appreciate your help!
 
For general firewood cutting and work, yes, I would totally run that cylinder. For my self. I would not put that cylinder on a customers saw though, unless they specifically asked me to help them out on price due to financial hardship.

What caused the grooving? Broke ring? Needle bearing? Alignment pin?
Can I ask, you say you’d not put it on a customers saw, is that just because it’s poor workmanship using a damaged part and it’s just not good service or because the compression from it won’t be what they’d expect / poorer than it should be?
 
Useable- yes, may well have been straight gassed- but looks like those grooves were caused by something metallic being eaten up in there.
So the piston & ring will be toast- Meteor that up, check compression and squish and see what you get.
That cylinder might have enough wear on it that the new ring never beds in well and it was always be down a bit on compression- so if you buy a new Meteor cylinder/piston kit from the get go, you have another option and a healthier cylinder to be more honest about should you decide to sell it and ask a fair price.
 
Great question and great answers. I am often faced with the same question. When do you change just the rings or piston vs piston and cylinder. Then do you go with OEM or meteor. What about the really cheep ones. For me it is not a question of a customers saw because I am a hobbyist. Sometimes I do fix a saw for a friend and that brings up the same question of expectations of the friend. Then to complicate things I don't use most of my saws at all. I do like to have them run well. I also occasionally sell one and want it to run reliably for that guy. There is also the question of cost vs saw value. This is not usually a problem because I don't count my time. (hobbyist)
Thanks for the great pictures. I will be watching this thread with interest. I learn so much here.
 
Second picture down, just above the inlet, is that a pin hole in the nikasil plating, or just debrits in the way ?

I agree with the previous posts, should clean up fine, and will be good for your own use if that is not a pinhole.
If I had access to a cheap gen cylinder, I would consider that, but the location of the scoring should minimise any effect.
 
Second picture down, just above the inlet, is that a pin hole in the nikasil plating, or just debrits in the way ?

I agree with the previous posts, should clean up fine, and will be good for your own use if that is not a pinhole.
If I had access to a cheap gen cylinder, I would consider that, but the location of the scoring should minimise any effect.


It’s some sort of damage, not dust mate, catches the pick.

Here it is under 10x magnification with a millimeter scale ...for scale ha

1A2114F0-27FF-4F92-B7C2-5F04532D9115.jpeg
 
It’s some sort of damage, not dust mate, catches the pick.

Here it is under 10x magnification with a millimeter scale ...for scale ha

View attachment 782478

Seen a few straight from the factory with pits like that, they run with no problems if the hole does not go all the way through to the outside. Fixed one that did with JB Weld.
 
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