What is your favorite chain for a limbing saw?

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Spent the day at a friends farm helping to clean up some of the massive amount of damage our trees here in MB suffered during a recent snow storm. In this case is was a huge ash that was blocking access to a feed lot, and this thing had HUNDREDS of suckers and small branches going everywhere. I was using a small saw with a .325 Stihl RS chain, it's noticeably smoother than the 3/8 although it cuts slower which really isn't an issue until you hit around a 6 inch or larger diameter branch.
has any one compared .325 full chisel to 3/8 or .325 low profile? I've used Stihl 3/8 low profile full chisel (PS designation) And found it pretty nice, but smoothness in cutting those grabby little branches is the priority. Wondering if a semi-chisel in .325 is the way to go.
 
.325" Stihl RS is my preference for limbing as well, but that's on 50cc saws that can handle it. Oregon's NK .325" semi chisel is even smoother, and some less powerful saws can handle it better than the full size .325" RS. Not sure how well a 35cc-45cc saw would handle .325" chain, 3/8 LP is probably better on saws that size. Stihl's LP 3/8 PS chain cuts as fast or faster than .325" but it's not quite as smooth and definitely not as durable.

Properly set up .325" and a stock 50cc saw is closet to regular 3/8, after that 3/8 all the way.
 
NK. Cuts as fast as full width, full chisel 325. Stays sharp longer. Cheap.
Which NK chain? I have found all the Oregon NK chain to be considerably slower than full chisel RS. Not even in the same ballpark actually. Semi chisel is simply a less efficient cutting tooth design. Like all semi chisel chain it will stay sharper longer though.
 
Which NK chain? I have found all the Oregon NK chain to be considerably slower than full chisel RS. Not even in the same ballpark actually. Semi chisel is simply a less efficient cutting tooth design. Like all semi chisel chain it will stay sharper longer though.

Txl is the fastest NK I have used. Haven't tried the newer husky chain. Being able to run a deeper raker on the NK, I really can't tell much of a difference in cutting speed between it and regular full.
 
I miss read. Chain fav for limbing. I prefer full comp full chisel square for everything except the landing where using round saves a lot of sharpening. But the square file stays sharp way longer than round. That is a huge misconception. Below was my dumbass answer I originally wrote. But I wouldn't run a rear handle smaller than 60cc and only use the 20" in the tree. I want to port my 362c so I can lop with a 32 on it!

l don't limb with a small saw. It is more work limbing with a 28" bar than a 32" because you have to hold the saw in your arms instead of it floating on your thigh. I limb left hand throttle because the bar is in the middle of my body and I can do both sides with out doing that nutty right hander swing the saw over the log and cut back at you crazyness. Boss said gotta be able to limb with out the feet stopping moving and the saw staying on top end...
 
I never saw the need for a limbing saw. Seems that's a CAD thing.
They make good tools for limbing willo size bushes.
 
I use and prefer Oregon .325" DPX on 50-55cc saws and 18" bars.

All my smaller saws are equipped with Oregon 3/8" LP with 14" bars.

Both set-ups are excellent for limbing and the round tooth cutters stay sharp longer than full chisel. I've ran .325" full chisel and does fine, but can be a little "grabby" on small limbs......Cliff
 
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