Dolmar 5105 warm start question

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Definitely close that slider in warm weather. Before modifying the vent my 5105 had cold start flood issues especially after weather/temp changes. Never had warm or hot start problems so the vent is likely not your trouble.

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I closed it no change, I ran the saw about 10 minutes shut it off for 15 or so and tried to start it. First thing I did was choke on then / off ,...now it is set to high idle position. I Pulled it over 8 times nothing. Choked it once it popped, shut the choke off and it took 3 more pulls to start. So 11 pulls to start a saw that I was just using 10 minutes earlier.
 
I closed it no change, I ran the saw about 10 minutes shut it off for 15 or so and tried to start it. First thing I did was choke on then / off ,...now it is set to high idle position. I Pulled it over 8 times nothing. Choked it once it popped, shut the choke off and it took 3 more pulls to start. So 11 pulls to start a saw that I was just using 10 minutes earlier.
Is there something preventing you, like a limiter or something, from opening the low speed screw a little?
 
No I ca,n it takes that weird double "D" adjustment screwdriver tool . I hate to do it because the screws are surrounded by an oval carb casting that prevents you from seeing if your really on the screw or not. I had to grind the outside of the tool I had because the tool wall was too thick to fit the tool between the screw and the casting. Its too bad that they could not think of more ways to make turning a screw a little more difficult.
So what I am getting at is you cant see the flats on the screw so you have to put a little pressure on the tool into the blind spot where the screw is and by "feel" try to turn the tool till it fits the flat spots of the screw that I cant see all the while hoping you are not turning the screw till you mean to,..yea lots of fun.
 
No I ca,n it takes that weird double "D" adjustment screwdriver tool . I hate to do it because the screws are surrounded by an oval carb casting that prevents you from seeing if your really on the screw or not. I had to grind the outside of the tool I had because the tool wall was too thick to fit the tool between the screw and the casting. Its too bad that they could not think of more ways to make turning a screw a little more difficult.
So what I am getting at is you cant see the flats on the screw so you have to put a little pressure on the tool into the blind spot where the screw is and by "feel" try to turn the tool till it fits the flat spots of the screw that I cant see all the while hoping you are not turning the screw till you mean to,..yea lots of fun.
I don't know what to tell you man...I hate having to work on a tool I'm gonna have to work with.
Speaking of which, I have a couple of trees to cut.
 
It is what it is I guess, it maybe just needs to be opened up a little I will tackle it soon. I have all my wood done now ,well its been done a long time really. Firewood all split and staked under cover enough for 3 years at least. I have a few different things to do before winter but soon I will put her on the bench and open it up a bit more.
 
Well I have a boring up-date, I have been cutting some firewood the last week and solely running the Dolmar. Leaving the 35 year old Partner in the shed, but I tell ya that is getting harder and harder to do.
The first thing I did was pull out the tank vent media/ fiber filter and then the duck bill vent itself. When I took the duck bill out,... and it came out kind of hard I kept loosing my grip on it with the forceps this was caused by suction,.. when I got a good grip on it with the forceps and pulled it up out of the hole you could hear a loud gurgle from within the tank. I said there, maybe that was the issue? I took small nippers and cut about a millimeter off the end of it and reinstalled it then the filter media.

It was still hard to re-start after running it and letting it sit for 10 minuets or more and was falling on it's face when the throttle squeezed . So I opened the low end up till it revved great off idle when I blipped the throttle. Still when I run it for 5 minutes or a half hour and you shut it off for longer than 10 minutes you cannot re-start the saw?

The next step was to open the fuel cap to see if that helped it to re-start after having it running ,..it did not help. When I try to re-start it I set the choke lever up to the choke position then snap it down to the run position before trying to restart it and that almost never helps. I always end up pulling it over 4-5 times then I give up and choke it for real and after 2-3 pulls it either pops, starts or I shut the choke back off (so I don't flood it) and pull it some more,... after about 3-4 more pulls It starts. However by then I have pulled a warm new saw 11 or 12 times to restart a saw that I just used no more than 10 minutes ago?

I drop a few trees (3 or 4) then limb them up and shut off the saw, then hook them to the tractor haul them to the wood yard about a 10 minute twitch ride away then try to restart the saw to cut these trees down to length from tree length. WTH is left to try with this thing? I really hate to start taking the carb apart on a new saw, This saw now as of today maybe has 7 cord of wood on it. It just doesn't seem like I should have to begin tearing it down with only a few hours on the engine? Any thoughts or opinions are welcome. I can get by like this I guess but this is NOT the reason I bought a brand new saw I really needed one that starts more easily than my 35 year old Partners and this one most definitely does not.
 
I think it's safe to say you've eliminated the vent. Check that metering lever and also the pump diaphragm. Inspect the impulse line.
 
I guess the next step is looking at the carb, Are you thinking the metering lever is set too low? I forgot to add that I opened the low screw another good 1/4 turn today but that did not help. obviously I have never had this carb off I wonder how much of a pain that will be?
 
It's very simple to remove. Two long bolts you have to fish out past the rear handle, a throttle cable, fuel line, and lifter her out. You'll need a T27 and a pair of needle nose pliers.
 
ok I have the zama "Z" shaped metering lever gage but I don't recall if I have ever used it. I do know for sure that I have no idea where that lever should be set to. Should it be set level with the top surface of the carb body or the lower surface of the carb body or do you know?
 
Lower part of carb body.mine was set with the upper part of carb body brand new.flooded like crazy till I set it to the lower part of the body.flooding problem solved.ya will need to richen the L and H a little.

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Ok I just finished up, I ran the saw about 10 minutes then shut it off and waited 10 minuets. Of course the saw started right up.... I took it to the bench anyway and pulled the plug it was quite black and wet. It was also gapped to 35 tho I re-gapped it to 20 tho

Then I took the carb off ,the carb will hold a vacuum when I suck on the fuel inlet nipple so I guess the needle is seating properly and the seat itself is in good condition.

Next I took off the metering side and checked the arm level, I was hoping it was high, it was not,.. It was actually a little low maybe 1 mm or so. In any case I removed the arm and the needle jet and washed all orifices with some carb clean. During the process I may have flexed the arm a little? so I set it back to about where it was , a little daylight between it and the flat side of the Zama gauge when resting on the carb body.

Next I removed the pump side and washed all the openings there as well, then rinsed off the diaphragm , screen and put it all back together. I had to choke it some to get it started and when it did start it would not stay running it would hog up when the throttle was pressed.
So I went and got my carb tool and opened the low end till it would stay running. Adjusted the idle up a little and let it set on the floor and run. After 10 minutes or so I shut it off then waited another 10 for it to cool some then went out to restart it. It popped on the first pull but would not keep running,.. on the 3rd it started and stayed running.
I don't know if the idle was turned up a little or the low end opened a little if it would have stayed running after the first pull ? So what is your opinion of the whole situation
 
Ok, well for right now it runs,.. I think I will wait for the next time I cut some wood see how she acts after a good warm up. I am guessing that something changed during the cleaning as it would not stay running when it did start after the cleaning. Maybe I washed out a speck of dirt but I really don't know.
 
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