Depth Gauge Tools for Saw Chain

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Page from Carlton 2016-2017 Catalog

I don't know if any of these are still available, but the part numbers might be helpful for some folks.
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Philbert

Philbert

I have two of the Carlton file-o-plates, 1 in .325" and the other in 3/8", and recently bought a second one of each on Ebay. Karl D hooked me up with the new Stihl progressive depth gauges as well, 1 of each of the 5 sizes. I have used the .325" an the 3/8" size a few times.

You know which ones I like better? The Carlton file-o-plates. They are harder to hold due to their smaller size and maybe my preference is due to familiarity alone, but I find myself reaching for them much more often than the new Stihl ones.
 
I still use the depth gauge tool I bought in the 70s. Made by Zip-Penn (a brand you'd recognize if you bought chainsaw goods by mail in the 70s), it's a "FILEMATE 4 in 1" tool, that has guides for .030 or .035 filing of rakers. (Photos are a giant PIA for me--have to find the camera, transfer photo to computer, etc.--or I'd take a pic.)

My main point is this: when I sharpen (file only--I gave away my grinder) I lay the gauge on the chain and run a flat file over one or two teeth. I now know that the rakers need about two passes with the flat file and I can see the size of the bright metal from filing. As I go around the chain, I just give it the same # of passes with the file until I see the right size of bright metal on top. No need to lay the gauge on every tooth. It's not exact, but I get very good results, never have had a problem with this method. I like to take them down pretty aggressively, and you can tell when cutting that the chain is just this side of grabby.
 
This might be a really dumb question but can you file 3/8 lo pro rakers with a standard husky 3/8 raker gauge?
I dont want to get another lecture about "proper" filing equipment from my dealer.
 
This might be a really dumb question but can you file 3/8 lo pro rakers with a standard husky 3/8 raker gauge?
'No'.

Separate Husqvana gauges for 3/8" low pro (aka: 'Picco', 'Mini') and full sized 3/8" pitch chains.
Here are the current part numbers for the Husqvana depth gauge tools:
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*Note that these part numbers (and price) have changed since @Jimmy in NC 's post a few years back (Post#19).

Also note that Husqvarna told me that I can use the same depth gauge tool for both Narrow Kerf and Standard .325 pitch chains, but I need separate roller guides for these chains, if I use those (!).

Philbert
 
I look straight down the bar at the rakers and teeth and eyeball if it’s two or three passes with a flat file on the rakers. We’re talking only .020” to .025”. My bigger power heads I go .030” to .035” maybe .040” on the 2100. But the trick to running deeper rakers is keeping the chain razor sharp.
 
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These are Stihl but give a comparison of why they can’t be used across. My writing didn’t show well on the picture either
 
I make the same number of passes on the teeth when using the file n guide. I make the same amount of passes with the flat file on the rakers. I try to keep the filing as even as possible. I been doing this for four decades.

With brand new saw chains in the past I’d open up the gullet to the max first. Today’s saw chain is so much better ground in the gullet I have noticed. The time we invest in making the gullet right is time saved in the field.
 
Looks to me like the raker portion of the Husqvarna roller gauge is functionally the same as the stamped steel one mentioned above.

I like the stamped steel one, but it’s RIDICULOUSLY soft steel isn’t going to last more than a few sharpenings.

Anyone know if the roller version is hardened steel ?
 
I took a photo of the tool I use. The middle depressions are .030 and .035, which are the two I use--and then I sometimes take a little more off. Here we cut almost entirely pine and other conifers, soft wood, so the chain can take a bigger bite.

Actually, I use this tool less than I used to. I like the 2-in-1 oufit anymore. I have a Pferd one for 7/32 and a Stihl for .325.

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I took a photo of the tool I use.
Very nice. Classic. Simple. Effective. Multi-functional.

I searched and found that Bailey's sells a version of it (WoodlandPro Universal Filing Gauge (Filemate) 15525):
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodl...MI_8v09Nny5gIVS__jBx1b0AzaEAQYASABEgIibvD_BwE

Screen shot 2020-01-07 at 6.04.56 PM.png

There appear to be several other 'FileMate -style' ones also posted on the web, but they do not look as nice as yours. E.g.:
https://www.treestuff.com/filemate-universal-filing-gauge/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Archer-Rak...70AAOSwo4pYRf7V:sc:USPSFirstClass!55105!US!-1

https://www.cutterschoice.com/en/47252-file-guide

'Four chain depth gauge settings. File guide for right and left hand cutters. Gauge for checking bar groove depth and bar groove cleaner."

Thanks for posting that.

Philbert
 
Granberg EZ Gauge 2218AF*

Saw this on their website:
Granberg EZ Gauge.png
Granberg Depth Gauge Tool.png
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*This is for use with the Granberg rotary tools - it sets the height for the grinding stone on the tool, NOT on the chain, to obtain the desired depth gauge offset. It is an alternative to using a standard offset style gauge, 'eyeballing it' and going back-and-forth. It also protects the cutting edges from damage while grinding the depth gauges.



Philbert
 
Husky Bill I use the exact same method as you.I think probably 90 percent of the pro loggers I know do also.I have a whole bunch of depth gauges including the one from the sixties that was adjustable.It was a pretty good tool.I reallly dont see a need for them when it is so easy to just to use a hand file.
Kash
 
Husky Bill I use the exact same method as you.I think probably 90 percent of the pro loggers I know do also.I have a whole bunch of depth gauges including the one from the sixties that was adjustable.It was a pretty good tool.I reallly dont see a need for them when it is so easy to just to use a hand file.
Kash

I don’t have time to use raker gauges I just eyeball the rakers, make one or two passes keeping it even, the file n guide keeps the top edge of the tooth razor sharp. There’s a difference in the approach to maintaining a chain with the pros.
 
Kept my eye out for one of these for awhile (since seeing it in another A.S. post!) - Oregon adjustable depth gauge tool.

Have not 'played' with it yet to determine how much each 'click' changes the depth gauge setting.

Philbert
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Here's a photo of a vintage Oregon Universal Depth Gauge Part No. 540 identical to this one of yours that was sold by somebody on eBay. According to that tool's original included instructions, "The numbers at the dial screw represent five thousandths graduations. They are accurate from the base starting point; each individual will soon learn to set the gauge at the best point suited for his own personal needs." Hope this info is helpful for you or anybody else wishing to use this tool.

Alan

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