Chainsaw related pet peeve‘s
- Thread starter U&A
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Why 'Depth Gauges' versus 'Rakers' is a Pet Peeve of Mine
Much easier to discuss / explain cutting and sharpening problems with a guy when his depth gauges are not set right. ' Rakers' make no sense in this context.
I put this slide together for a training class.
Philbert
Much easier to discuss / explain cutting and sharpening problems with a guy when his depth gauges are not set right. ' Rakers' make no sense in this context.
I put this slide together for a training class.
Philbert
U&A
Addicted to ArboristSite
All about education sir.
I’ve often called them rakers and obviously that is not correct.[emoji16]
Ill try to be better about it for everyones sanity.
Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Rakers in my world for well over 40 years until the Anal Annie's got a hold of it.
Dog does not equal dawg
but raker does equal depth gauge
slang is usually developed from those "in the biz" at the field level. Which, in a way makes it more legitimate.
"dog" is simply a misnomer for dawg
Dog does not equal dawg
but raker does equal depth gauge
slang is usually developed from those "in the biz" at the field level. Which, in a way makes it more legitimate.
"dog" is simply a misnomer for dawg
I assumed that we call them dogs (or 'dawgs' down South), because they 'bite' into the wood.
Philbert
'In engineering, a dog is a tool or part of a tool that prevents movement or imparts movement by offering physical obstruction or engagement of some kind. It may hold another object in place by blocking it, clamping it, or otherwise obstructing its movement. . . . This word usage is a metaphor derived from the idea of a dog (animal) biting and holding on, the "dog" name derived from the basic idea of how a dog jaw locks on, by the movement of the jaw, or by the presence of many teeth.' (Wikipedia)
not that I trust Wikipedia much, ...but perhaps I am wrong for the first time in 2020.!
Lol!
i'm stickin' with raker tho..
Lol!
i'm stickin' with raker tho..
confusing, isn't it...
I call them rakers because if I said "depth gauges" no one would know what I was talking about. But I get your point.
I hate it when the dealer treats you like a moron:
"no no, you HAVE to file a 3/8 chain with a 13/64 file"
"filing the gullet is useless"
"the stihl 2 in 1 file is objectively superior to using a handfile"
"this is the only bar oil that works"
"this is the only 2 stroke oil that works"
"you dont need that bar, im not ordering it for you"
"this saw is just as good as that saw"
"i have never heard of that part/model/tool/chain type"
"it's impossible to get wrap handle bars outside of America"
"you cannot split hardwood without a €2000 hydraulic splitter"
I also hate people on facebook groups who participate in brand wars.
I hate it when the dealer treats you like a moron:
"no no, you HAVE to file a 3/8 chain with a 13/64 file"
"filing the gullet is useless"
"the stihl 2 in 1 file is objectively superior to using a handfile"
"this is the only bar oil that works"
"this is the only 2 stroke oil that works"
"you dont need that bar, im not ordering it for you"
"this saw is just as good as that saw"
"i have never heard of that part/model/tool/chain type"
"it's impossible to get wrap handle bars outside of America"
"you cannot split hardwood without a €2000 hydraulic splitter"
I also hate people on facebook groups who participate in brand wars.
We never put 3-4 man crews on a job without 10-12 saws on the truck. If I'm cutting dead standing firewood I usually have 4 saws. The little 170 for any limbing, the 290 for stuff up to 118-20", the 660 with a 25" and a Super 1050 with a 36 or 45" for felling. I don't like notching and fellinf from both sides when I have a bar that can do it from one side.
While I don't always bring 4 saws out to cut, I like to have a backup or two. The other night I hauled my new 298 and my proven 045 down to a pile of logs I was planning to buck up and the doggone 298 wouldn't start. As I'd brought down a 2nd saw, I was able to just fire up my 045 and buck up all the wood in the last little bit of daylight remaining. As an added bonus, I found out just how great an 045 with a 36 inch bar is in bigger wood.
We used to call that "long arming" and Dad would fire a guy for doing it after being told not to. Our saws were always in tune and easy to start.
Dang you, I just read this whole post straight through and was going to say, "We always called them Drag teeth". Drag teeth, drag teeth! A lot of things are regional, generational, or professional. Virtually all of our work was done in Potomac MD. The highest of high end residential. Linda Carter, Sugar Ray , Moe Howard. We never bought a bucket truck because most residential removals are in the yard, and there was no way you could drive across some one's multi million dollar estate. Now they do. Anyway, here's a regional. If we had to rope a tree down in small pieces we either said "Limbed it out" or Roped it out", I've heard a lot of guys say "Dismantled". We often could not drop or throw a log across a manicured lawn, so we would dig up one big Azalea, the climber would cut one firewood size "Block", and drop it in the hole from the moved plant. So, we blocked it down. Guys here told me I didn't block the tree down, I "Chunked" it down. "Blocking" meant you used a block and tackle, and "Rigged" it down. If we had to use a block and tackle, we would just get a crane and reach across the yard from the street. Like the "Power Saw" thing earlier. I've heard and used the term ever since. I don't know if I ever made a conscious switch to "Chainsaw", or just gradually did it searching for saws.Plus, I've heard a lot of guys from down under that don't call them power saws, or chainsaws, They refer to them as Machines. I've heard the West Coast guy refer to things differently from East Coast guys. I try not to let terminology get on my pet peeve list.
I think my pet peeve here on AS is when a noob with an 18" dull Wild Thing ask's for advice taking down a 30" tree, and a dozen people tell him "You can do it". "You can cut half the notch from one side, then get the other half from the other side, and same thing with the back cut". Looking at the fuzzy pic the noob gives my opinion might be a deep, open notch and a real fast back cut with a 36" bar on a 100CC saw, with a razor sharp chain(blade). If you don't know the person, his equipment, it's condition, and his ability to use it, you can't give advice on something potentially dangerous. To the credit of a lot of guys, their first advice is, "Just pay the tree guy".
My other peeve is the guys that say their brand new chain won't cut, it's bad, factory defect, cut's crooked, and then post a pic of the chain and it looks like they cut my sidewalk in half. Then when you call them on it, they say I may have used it once, but didn't hit anything.
Oh Well, like someone here said, we were all new once, except me, I was born old and grumpy.
My pet peeve is a bunch of hypersensitive forum members who let small things bother them
Who started this thread anyway, someone from the P&R forums
.
Who started this thread anyway, someone from the P&R forums
.Just experienced this on a used saw:
Finding used diesel crankcase oil in the chain lube tank.
Finding used diesel crankcase oil in the chain lube tank.
Shawn.54
ArboristSite Member
I not a noob by any stretch but I’m also not a professional I have been heating my house for 10 years with wood that I have cut and hauled myself some standing timber some tops after pros have cut the lot. I have never paid for wood but usually give land owner a $100 gift card after I finish cleaning up their lot. I was lucky to grow up with a grandfather who was a part time timber cutter in his own wood lot plus sawed and hauled for neighbors and friends he even had his own mill for 20-30 years I could run the edger at 10 years old.
I had a great teacher except for the fact that he loved felling so much that I didn’t get to do it a lot until he physically could not do it anymore then it was just doing what he told me to do I didn’t always know why. I know that I had a teacher who knew what he was doing I feel bad for those who go buy a saw and think how hard can it be. Couple years ago a buddy who had decided to get a outdoor furnace bought a chain saw and started cutting wood they showed him where to put gas and bar oil and how to adjust chain tension. After two years he got a second saw and junked the first two years later he was asking me how long my saws lasted he thought two years was not long enough. Not picking up on his problem I questioned him on his brand and model then I asked him what saw was doing that he thought it was junk after two years. To make a long story short he never had anyone tell him he needed to sharpen or replace chain when it got dull I almost fell of my lawn chair when I figured this out told him bring it over and I would sharpen it for him no chance of saving chain or bar I bet a bead chain toy would have cut better than that thing it’s a wonder he didn’t catch the wood on fire. After all that I have two peeves:
1 people who don’t think they need advice or help getting started.
Or 2 people who see a problem and don’t try to help/educate the offenders.
I know some people are untrainable it’s a fact.
Shawn
I had a great teacher except for the fact that he loved felling so much that I didn’t get to do it a lot until he physically could not do it anymore then it was just doing what he told me to do I didn’t always know why. I know that I had a teacher who knew what he was doing I feel bad for those who go buy a saw and think how hard can it be. Couple years ago a buddy who had decided to get a outdoor furnace bought a chain saw and started cutting wood they showed him where to put gas and bar oil and how to adjust chain tension. After two years he got a second saw and junked the first two years later he was asking me how long my saws lasted he thought two years was not long enough. Not picking up on his problem I questioned him on his brand and model then I asked him what saw was doing that he thought it was junk after two years. To make a long story short he never had anyone tell him he needed to sharpen or replace chain when it got dull I almost fell of my lawn chair when I figured this out told him bring it over and I would sharpen it for him no chance of saving chain or bar I bet a bead chain toy would have cut better than that thing it’s a wonder he didn’t catch the wood on fire. After all that I have two peeves:
1 people who don’t think they need advice or help getting started.
Or 2 people who see a problem and don’t try to help/educate the offenders.
I know some people are untrainable it’s a fact.
Shawn
Trail Blazer
ArboristSite Lurker
My first saw was a Husky 460(for some reason it does not say Rancher anywhere on it?), I still have it, love it, and won't part with it as it was my first saw, but the 372 outclasses it by a fair bit.
If this has been mentioned.....I’m sorry.
When the saw starts to miss as it runs out of gas and they keep working the throttle to keep it going.
When the saw starts to miss as it runs out of gas and they keep working the throttle to keep it going.
U&A
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh gosh, again today from a different person I heard the “farm boss” story
Guy was telling me how he has an MS 180 that he uses frequently but he also has a “big saw” that cuts faster than heck, “i mean that thing CUTS” he say...
i said “what is it”
“its one of them farm bosses”
i see......
Guy was telling me how he has an MS 180 that he uses frequently but he also has a “big saw” that cuts faster than heck, “i mean that thing CUTS” he say...
i said “what is it”
“its one of them farm bosses”
i see......
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
So question of the day did poulan ever make any good reliable chainsaws or weedeaters etc- Latest: RedneckChainsawRepair
-
-
-
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)- Latest: SS396driver
-
-
-
-
