Rust removal from chains?

[ClintC]

Is there a practical way to remove rust (some light, some heavy) from saw chains? I'm trying to salvage as many of dad's old chains as possible (most good shape/had planned to use, some not so much) from a damp storage area due to ALL my new chains (12 milk crates of individual boxes) + all my "extras" + tools being stolen this fall. I'm trying to get the most out of what little I have left, and get ready for next season. The loss feels catastrophic and I'm "hanging on by a thread" after a slow 1st year. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[U&A]

If it’s not affecting the function of the chain I will just sharpen them and run them. When you cut the rust will get removed somewhat

If it’s to the point where the rivets will not pivot I would start with a nice soaking in a solvent such as mineral spirits. You could even do some mineral spirits in an ultrasonic cleaner.

But seriously I would not spend too much time cleaning chains. if they work run them


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[2broke2ride]

Soak them in white vinegar. Dont get too anal about it though, as long as the links arent seized, sharpen them and run them.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I asked Heloise. She said soak them 24 hours or at least overnight in a pie pan submerged in vinegar. That will dissolve the rust. Now clean them off with soap detergent and water. Use a toothbrush with diesel fuel to oil them back up.

I usually only follow her advise with severely rusted chains. Some get really bad.

 

[ClintC]

Thanks, and yes the ones I'm talking about have seized links. I was just reading about "evapo rust" rust remover.

 

[cliff86]

When finished, buff the top & side plates to a shine!

 

[TBS]

Thanks, and yes the ones I'm talking about have seized links. I was just reading about "evapo rust" rust remover.

Evaporust works well if you can let it set more than 24 hour but be a little pricey compared to the other options. CLR and lime away will also work.

 

[Snowchaser]

PB blaster too

 

[Pioneer]

Muriatic acid. Will strip the rust quickly. Wear rubber gloves and use in a well ventilated area. I use it on mufflers and other steel parts that have heavy rust.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Plastic fish bin and a couple of gallons of diesel.
Soak the chains to free up the links, then check each as you remove them to ensure each link is free and has full movement around the rivet pins.
Then, if there is still scale on the drive spurs, use something like a CLR bath soak to clean them up further as rusty drivers will wear bar grooves and deposit rust/oil sludge to roller tip sprockets.
If they pass muster after all that, sharpen and use.

 

[stilh036prohog]

Thanks, and yes the ones I'm talking about have seized links. I was just reading about "evapo rust" rust remover.

That stuff is the best I found. After letting soak rinse with water let dry and then soak in oil.

 

[Dave86]

I have used electrolytic rust removal. I use brake rotors as sacrificial anodes, they are free from a mechanic buddy. A battery charger as a power source.

 

[CentaurG2]

Mount the chain(s) to a bar and go cut some wood. Rust be gone.

 

[Wood Doctor]

For seized-up links, I have sometimes mix Evapo Rust and vinegar 50:50 for a half-day soak. That works and cuts the cost of the Evapo Rust almost in half. You will still need a detergent wash/rinse and a lube such as diesel fuel added later.

I'm surprised Philbert hasn't joined in here. He must be on vacation. His reputation for saving rusted chains is unmatched.

 

[holeycow]

Are some of you guys out of your freakin' minds?

some of the suggested acids will destroy the chains in no time, not to mention release toxic, flammable fumes. Besides, the rust doesn't even matter if its on the chain.

IF any of those chains can be salvaged (and that's a big "IF") they need lubricant and solvent, not acid!


check every pivot...if you have any seized ones other **** will be destroyed.

Bob Hedgecutter and Centaur have the right idea. Most of the rest of yous are out of your minds.

oops! Did I say that out loud?

 

[Dave86]

Are some of you guys out of your freakin' minds?

some of the suggested acids will destroy the chains in no time, not to mention release toxic, flammable fumes. Besides, the rust doesn't even matter if its on the chain.

IF any of those chains can be salvaged (and that's a big "IF") they need lubricant and solvent, not acid!


check every pivot...if you have any seized ones other **** will be destroyed.

Bob Hedgecutter and Centaur have the right idea. Most of the rest of yous are out of your minds.

oops! Did I say that out loud?

This is a place for civil discussion, my friend.

 

[holeycow]

Sorry. Sometimes I can't help myself.

i thought I was holding back..

 

[Philbert]

@ClintC

I covered a lot of this stuff in depth (lot of pages - scan through the parts that don't apply) in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Couple of key things to keep in mind:

- Removing rust does not replace lost metal. Removing heavy rust leaves a weaker chain.

- Some acids dissolve metal as well as rust, and can actually embrittle the metal. Avoid inorganic acids (hydrochloric, sulfuric, nitric, etc.).

- Some rust removers / methods can also damage the chrome plating on cutters.

- Some acids / treatments will discolor the chains (if that is important).

- Products like Evapo-Rust (WD-40 Rust Remover Soak, et,) work best on surface rust, and require a covered container for best results.

- You need to really clean the chain well first, to remove any loose rust, dirt, grease, oil, etc., so that chemical treatments can reach the rust.

- Some 'seized' links on old chains are due to dried up oil / grease around the rivets, not rust: cleaning them (see referenced thread) and working in some light oil (3-In-One, etc.) will often free up frozen links.

- After cleaning and rust removal, dry and re-lube everything throughly to prevent additional rust.

If I had to choose a simple recommendation it would be:
- clean chain using commercial, water-based degreaser containing sodium hydroxide / lye (home center);
- soak in a weak citric acid solution (Amazon);
- clean off with fine, stainless steel 'scratch' brush (welding supply store);
- dry thoroughly (oven) and re-lube liberally.
Details are in the referenced thread. Please post your results there too!

Philbert

 

[Huntaholic]

Sorry. Sometimes I can't help myself.

i thought I was holding back..

LMAO! That's exactly why I don't post any more than what I do. I see some stuff on here that leaves me smfh

 

[stilh036prohog]

Some people?