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As I recall Kevin,you've got a couple of C series saws too.Where did you get those from,locally,or out of town?
I don't know if you've seen Leon's post over on HoH,but he wants to put a friendly competition together (by himself) of 82 cc Macs,Homies,& Pioneers.He's having a hard time coming up with an affordable 82cc Mac (aren't we all?Lol).
Ed
 
edju1958 said:
As I recall Kevin,you've got a couple of C series saws too.Where did you get those from,locally,or out of town?
I don't know if you've seen Leon's post over on HoH,but he wants to put a friendly competition together (by himself) of 82 cc Macs,Homies,& Pioneers.He's having a hard time coming up with an affordable 82cc Mac (aren't we all?Lol).
Ed
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You are right, I have a C71 that I found locally and a C52 that was shipped in and pirated for parts for the C71.
 
rwoods said:
NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

The nasty weather Mark predicted arrived. It didn't keep Brian from taking his 805 to the two trees from last Saturday. Me - I stayed home and drilled holes in metal all day. I swear I think I could fall two 3' DBH trees in the time it takes to me to drill a 3/4" hole in steel. Not sure if I am getting wimpier or wiser in my old age, but I would rather take on a leaning 3' DBH Oak with a MAC then drill a 1/2" hole in steel with my corded gear reduction Makita. That drill can put a hurting on you in the bat of an eye.

As I scratched around for a MAC picture, I remembered my MAC Christmas Tree of years past. About half the limbs have since been replaced. Hope you all enjoyed the Holidays.

View attachment 785567

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses
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Ron,

You have quite a few nice saws stuck in that stump. Better call Brian.
 
Good story, Brian, but actually your five all sprung up after the tree. Too bad for me that I hadn't properly tested that 800 before it went your way. Hopefully, it helped make up for the unpleasant surprises with the 125.

Ron
 
I've been busy trying to get some things organized here at home and in the new shop/museum...with more stuff coming in every day it seems.

I like the Viton 10 Series fuel tank gaskets, but the Viton will swell so if you disassemble a saw that has been fueled you may have to wait a day or two before you can fit it back together.

I like Dirko HT over Threebond or Hylomar, easier to remove when you have to take it apart again.

I ran SP80/81/PM850/DE80/PM8200 and PM800 all side by side in the same 24" sycamore log. The PM850 was the only one to stay close to my Dolmar 7900.

Carburetor adapter on a 795L to fit the SDC to the 700800 Series.

20180825_084618.jpg

20180825_084721.jpg

I have started that 4-10 on e-Bay right now, you won't find a lighter weight snappier 82 cc Mac short of a like new PM850 which will be several pounds heavier due to the aluminum fuel tank and long clutch cover. Jason is as good as they come.

In the process of moving stuff over to the museum I find I am seriously overstocked on 20" hardnose bars for the 10 Series saws and used chains to go with them if anyone is interested, they'll go cheap.

Mark
 
rwoods said:
Good story, Brian, but actually your five all sprung up after the tree. Too bad for me that I hadn't properly tested that 800 before it went your way. Hopefully, it helped make up for the unpleasant surprises with the 125.

Ron
Click to expand...
Ron, there was nothing to make up on the 125. I now have a basically new SP125c that I would not take anything for. I love that saw as I love the PM800 and PM805. They are my most prised saws in m collection. I am going to bet in as much rain that I was in yesterday that something just got wet. While I was at Holly Creek it was pouring big time and it started and ran like a champ and by the time I got to the lot is was really coming down, I am going to bet the kill switch got wet and just shorted out due to being so wet. Don't ever feel bad about the 125. I like it now that it has a new nicomed cylinder. That saw is the pride of my collection. You have seen me cut with it, it never misses a beat. Starts wonderful and cuts like a dream. Just like my PM800. Just cannot beat those saws. They are such a joy to cut with.

Brian
 
heimannm said:
I've been busy trying to get some things organized here at home and in the new shop/museum...with more stuff coming in every day it seems.


Carburetor adapter on a 795L to fit the SDC to the 700800 Series.

View attachment 785657


Mark
Click to expand...
Hey Mark,
How thick is that adapter? It seems like something that wouldn't be too hard to make our of some aluminum.
Thanks,
Eric
 
lostone said:
I just replaced the tank seal on a PM700. I would recommend going with the Viton seal, Viton is better than cork and Buna, the cork gaskets shrink/roll up, or at least mine did, and Viton has the same characteristics of Buna but more abrasion and UV resistant although in this situation it wont need it. I have a Viton I will be using on a PM555 and used a cork on the PM700 but had a heck of a time getting it to seal up even using Hylomar Blue (which a lot of people mistake for blue silicone) by the way acetone is the best thing to remove it. To be fair about the cork gasket though I was fighting an additional problem with my saw because I believe someone had taken it apart and tried to paint it without preparing it correctly and the paint was allowing air under it so I had to take a razor and score a line on the outside area of the seal and remove the paint from the area where the seal sits. As far as around the air box I used double sided closed cell foam and cut it into narrow strips and once my top half was on I just trimmed along the inside with a razor to remove the excess and it sealed the air box up nicely.

Make sure when putting on the top half and before tightening the screws down that the spring for the trigger isn't in the way of the top half being able to go all the way down. The tang on the spring on mine kept getting in the way and it took me a min to figure out what was happening.

This was my first time trying Hylomar Blue and I have read that Hylomar M is suppose to be better, while it has a cult following I did order some 1184 to try next time and see which I prefer.

Disclaimer: This is just my personal opinion and in no way reflect an intelligent thought.
Click to expand...
I already ordered a cork gasket, but plan to add Motoseal to make sure it seals effectively. Believe it or not the silicone on there actually sealed well. No fun to remove though.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 
For future reference, 1/8" Fel-Pro hybrid cork/rubber gasket material works well (with a touch of Motoseal for good measure). Just cut an 1/8" strip to the length required for the tank seam and finish it off with a thin layer of Motoseal, Dirko, or any suitable fuel resistant sealant. You can make one helluva lot o' tank gaskets with a $6.00 roll.
 
On another subject -- how much slop in a Tilly HL throttle shaft is too much? I'm chasing an elusive idling issue on a particular saw and beginning to lean toward the throttle shaft as the source of an air leak. Haven't torn it down for a leak test yet due to what I discovered with the shaft after removing what seemed to be a few decades of funk from the air box and carb. And please excuse "the particular saw". Just figured I'd get more informed advice here than anywhere else.

​
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
On another subject -- how much slop in a Tilly HL throttle shaft is too much? I'm chasing an elusive idling issue on a particular saw and beginning to lean toward the throttle shaft as the source of an air leak. Haven't torn it down for a leak test yet due to what I discovered with the shaft after removing what seemed to be a few decades of funk from the air box and carb. And please excuse "the particular saw". Just figured I'd get more informed advice here than anywhere else.

​
Click to expand...


That's a heck of a lot of play. A couple HS carbs I have with less slop than that wouldn't come close to providing any consistency idling. The good thing on the HS carbs is that the shaft was worn and the body was OK

Pull the shaft and check it. They still make the HL-166 so I assume new throttle shafts are available from V.E. Pedersen if that's the issue.
 
Thanks for the input. Was hoping you'd drop in. (Most folks don't acknowledge a worn shaft as such a major source of aggravation.) LOL

Already sourced parts if the body isn't worn too bad and the guy wants to put any money into it. Don't think he will, tho. Knock-off HL 166's are $15 and I found a new Tilly for $69 if necessary. Just wanted an informed opinion before I went too much further with it. Thanks.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
On another subject -- how much slop in a Tilly HL throttle shaft is too much? I'm chasing an elusive idling issue on a particular saw and beginning to lean toward the throttle shaft as the source of an air leak. Haven't torn it down for a leak test yet due to what I discovered with the shaft after removing what seemed to be a few decades of funk from the air box and carb. And please excuse "the particular saw". Just figured I'd get more informed advice here than anywhere else.

​
Click to expand...


I dont trust the old hl style tilosons, call me paranoid but every saw I have with one struggles to find its sweet spot, I know there are good running saws out there with them but thats not my experience with them.
I'm starting to think its the kits I'm getting? But the carbs could just be worn out .
I've had a couple Edelbrock afb style carbs wear out the primary throttle shaft bores and they are turning nightmares.
 

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