Drill bit versus Chainsaw Bar

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All this talk got me thinking, My Mother in-law gave me a hundred dollars for Christmas and there has been a few things I have been wanting,.. one of which is the set of Carbide Burrs I have had saved in my favorites for about 4 years ha ha. Then I have been watching some BC Faller Videos on YouTube again, this time of year I always end up there. Anyway I keep hearing the name Jeff Jepson so I bought his book I know I can always learn about something I do so often , you never know it all. Also of course I did need some more Felling Wedges only have 2 so I bought 4 more of them the links are below. That Amazon has a very bad influence on me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBY7XYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0615338798/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1YAX4Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I would really like to know what grade of steel most bars are.

I know when I’m cleaning up my bars with a file they seem very similar to a 300 series stainless. I am mostly familiar with 304 and 316. It does remind me of them but it almost seems they are a tad bit harder than these two but still have great corrosion resistance.

Maybe 302..? Basically same thing as 304 but a bit harder from additional carbon. Now i have to go see how well These bars hold a magnet....[emoji848].




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
I would really like to know what grade of steel most bars are.

I know when I’m cleaning up my bars with a file they seem very similar to a 300 series stainless. I am mostly familiar with 304 and 316. It does remind me of them but it almost seems they are a tad bit harder than these two but still have great corrosion resistance.

Maybe 302..? Basically same thing as 304 but a bit harder from additional carbon. Now i have to go see how well These bars hold a magnet....[emoji848].




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Tsumura are sks51
 
Tsumura are sks51

Dang.

Sks 51 is a tool steel. Rockwell of 45ish i think. Not super hard but definitely “hard”. Da internet says it is also used for bandsaw and circular saw blades.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
I have a big old school drill press from my grandpa, probably from the 40's or 50's. It has three different pulley settings so it can be "geared" up or down. I think it is in the middle setting right now but doesnt spin all that fast, relatively
That’s what I have. A old craftsman made in the 60’s. and you have to move the belt to a different pulley to change the speed.
 
That’s what I have. A old craftsman made in the 60’s. and you have to move the belt to a different pulley to change the speed.
That technology is still employed in most commercial drill presses today...but I have a Craftsman from the 60s too.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I drilled out two extra holes on my 41” Stihl bar. Burned out several bits in the process and had to finish up the holes with a Dremel tool. That steel is very hard indeed.
 
I have a big old school drill press from my grandpa, probably from the 40's or 50's. It has three different pulley settings so it can be "geared" up or down. I think it is in the middle setting right now but doesnt spin all that fast, relatively

Make sure to line up the drill and the existing hole. Being off a little bit can will make it more difficult and increase chances of damaging drill bit.

Check the table for square to spindle or bit if that is easier. Again being off a little will make things harder and increase chances of damaging the drill bit.

Put the drill press drive belt in the slowest spindle position.

Put something between the drill press table and bar and then clamp it all down very securely. I tend to use 3/4” plywood, takes screws good so that helps with clamping things down. Having a solid surface under the bar allows for coolant to be pooled.
 
Our body shop uses these bits on ultra high strength steel spot welds. They are the only bits that will last drilling in that material. You can shave with the cutting edge.
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Our body shop uses these bits on ultra high strength steel spot welds. They are the only bits that will last drilling in that material. You can shave with the cutting edge.
9f345a5e0e1b4251234eef6cdb5be113.jpg


Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk
Those are pricey but man they look slick. Have you tried them in stainless by chance?
 
If I’m drilling out these holes from say 3/16 to 5/16 should I just use a 5/16 bit or run a 1/4 but through first then 5/16?
 
Appreciate the responses. I wrecked a couple drill bits trying to drill out the first bar a few weeks back. But I was using a hand drill at high speed and no oil so that was most of my problem!

I've drilled holes in a lot of bars, but not for the bar studs. I wonder if they aren't stamped out and therefore work hardened? I've never run into a bar I would classify as "hard", "tough" or "springy" yeah, but not "hard". Chances are if you slow the sfpm down and use some cutting lube it will go a lot better.
 
^ I remember drilling out larger oiler holes in a few bars a few years ago. I too don't remember them being hard to drill? Maybe they were,? I don't remember enough to defend an argument but I was only -enlarging- an existing hole by maybe an 1/8 inch or a little more. Drill bit, drill press, done in 30 seconds I think.
 
Iv drilled a lot of spring and hard steel with regular hss drill bits. Obviously a carbide tip bit is better but Slow speed and steady pressure is the key. A old timer showed me how he drilled them a long time ago and your gonna laugh but if you can move your drill press put it over a drain or put out side and run a slow stream of water on your work while you drill.
 
I received a healthy amount of carbide drill bits from @wde_1978. Not sure if getting a single bit from him is feasible or not. But his bits will drill a 7mm adjuster hole through a Cannon bar in under a minute. I’d definitely try a carbide drill bit.
Cheers Kevin! :cheers:

HSS-Co (HighSpeedSteel Cobalt alloyed) can take a bite in softer AM bars.
I once tried drilling out an Oregon bar and HSS-Co was a no go.
I can sharpen drill bits better than I can sharpen chainsaw chains so it was not a matter of a dull drill bit!

Yes, Solid-Carbide is very shatter prone.
Firm clamping, high rpm's and a steady feed are desirable - cooling is recommended but not required.
Solid-Carbide drill bits will go through nearly any steel alloy when utilized in any kind of machine (lathe,mill,drill press,...).

For merely enlarging an existing oiler hole a diamond laced burr is a feasible option, it is a slow process, but they are a dime a dozen on eBay.
 
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