2 in 1 sharpener not reaching the gullet

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi guys, had great success in terms of sharpness with the 2 in 1 from stihl, but I got a brand new chain and sharpened it the first time and noticed that it’s not getting inside that gullet and instead sharpening the upper part of the tooth. Any ideas why? The chain and sharpener are both the correct size for each other so that’s not the issue and I’m applying gentle downward pressure and gentle pressure into the tooth, but it’s not shaping it how the factory tooth is gulleted

 

[Customtaco]

I see that I typically have to take 5 to 7 strokes off of each tooth before a new chain sharpens well with the 2 in 1. What brand chain?

 

[TheAMMIXman]

Hi guys, had great success in terms of sharpness with the 2 in 1 from stihl, but I got a brand new chain and sharpened it the first time and noticed that it’s not getting inside that gullet and instead sharpening the upper part of the tooth. Any ideas why? The chain and sharpener are both the correct size for each other so that’s not the issue and I’m applying gentle downward pressure and gentle pressure into the tooth, but it’s not shaping it how the factory tooth is gulleted

So I love these sharpeners but always had this same problem. Ever since I started using it I lightly hit the rakers by hand first, no more problem.

I didn’t start out noticing what you did. What I noticed was I was taking off more of the top off the teeth than necessary to sharpen before getting to the gullet.

Hit the rakers first lightly every time, now the round file part of the tool drops right in the gullet. Defeats the purpose of the tool a little but I still get that accurate raker height without going back with a file and a gauge. Also don’t think I take an exessive amount off the top of the tooth, ever.

Bruce

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I see that I typically have to take 5 to 7 strokes off of each tooth before a new chain sharpens well with the 2 in 1. What brand chain?

It’s a genuine stihl round file chain, normal full comp is it called? No skip tooth or square grind!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

So I love these sharpeners but always had this same problem. Ever since I started using it I lightly hit the rakers by hand first, no more problem.

I didn’t start out noticing what you did. What I noticed was I was taking off more of the top off the teeth than necessary to sharpen before getting to the gullet.

Hit the rakers first lightly every time, now the round file part of the tool drops right in the gullet. Defeats the purpose of the tool a little but I still get that accurate raker height without going back with a file and a gauge. Also don’t think I take an exessive amount off the top of the tooth, ever.

Bruce

How interesting that hitting rakers first solves your issue? Thanks for taking the time to write all that out

 

[TheAMMIXman]

How interesting that hitting rakers first solves your issue? Thanks for taking the time to write all that out

Anytime, I have been helped time and time again here directly and indirectly from saw to stump grinder and figured I had experienced what you had, also with genuine Stihl chains it turns out.

My assumed conclusion on the matter was that hitting the rakers first made the tool sit lower, putting the round file down under the tooth top where it should be.

If you can get good at keeping the tool level you can also do skip tooth chains with it, I do and they serve my purposes(cutting stumps low before I grind them).

I really like the tool. I have one for each chain type I have here. Even tho the inside edges of the tool aren’t the proper sharpening angle when parallel to the bar in all cases, just using it makes it easy to nail the angle where you want it.

 

[svk]

I have never used one because I just use the reguar Oregon file guides

Question on the 2 in 1 system? Doesn't the raker file take too much off if you need to do repeated strokes to true the toot? I often need to do a lot of filing on the tooth of my chains (especially if I have been cutting skidded wood) but the rakers need a single touch or two to get back to .025.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I have never used one because I just use the reguar Oregon file guides

Question on the 2 in 1 system? Doesn't the raker file take too much off if you need to do repeated strokes to true the toot? I often need to do a lot of filing on the tooth of my chains (especially if I have been cutting skidded wood) but the rakers need a single touch or two to get back to .025.

All the files are held at constant depths and the tool is indexed off the top of the cutters by steel rails. The round file and square file are held in relation to one another so that the depth gauge is ground with respect to the height of the tooth.

So based on the top of the cutter that the rail of the tool is gliding on, the flat file may not touch the depth gauge at all until you reduce the height of the tooth enough to get into the depth gauge.

So, no, the depth gauge won't be ground too far if you need to take many strokes to get the tooth fixed up.

 

[svk]

All the files are held at constant depths and the tool is indexed off the top of the cutters by steel rails. The round file and square file are held in relation to one another so that the depth gauge is ground with respect to the height of the tooth.

So based on the top of the cutter that the rail of the tool is gliding on, the flat file may not touch the depth gauge at all until you reduce the height of the tooth enough to get into the depth gauge.

So, no, the depth gauge won't be ground too far if you need to take many strokes to get the tooth fixed up.

Ah, that makes sense.

 

[old guy]

New full chisle chains have nowhere near the shape of a round file, you can't copy it with a round file.