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Not sure about auto tune but I think that's Husqvarna . Stihl has the Mtronic. Auto adjusting for conditions. Altitude, humidity, temperature and even less than clean air filter. I've been running 3 stihls with no problems so far. The oldest one is over 2 years old and the newest about 4 months. You mentioned an 18# 70 cc saw,my 462 is 13 lbs, powerhead only.
EDIT. Stihl has come out with a fuel injected saw but not available in th US yet. 500i,80 cc

046 full of fuel and oil 20" bar 76.5cc.. Feels really nimble and def not rough on the ol back or arms all day. But for a super lightweight all arounder id recommend a 346xp or 026/260/261. 20191229_111814.jpg
 
If you're never going to see wood over 24"

Get an MS261C with an 18" bar and a bunch of chains. Odds are you'll never run into anything it can't handle. Would need to be 30"+ to be out of it's abilities.

50cc but she cuts. Very light and nimble. But if ur wife isn't OK with a $450 saw, the 261 isn't for you....so...good luck.
 
Husqvarna AutoTune and Stihl Mtronic both basically have a little built in computer that constantly adjusts the fuel-air flow for different conditions so the saw runs perfect with no need to mess with adjusting a old fashioned carburetor .
Yes if the AutoTune would fail for some reason the saw would most likely need to go back to a dealer so they could hook it up to a computer to figure out what went wrong but that’s very rare. The computer will tell them all kinds of information like how many times the saw has been started, how many hours on the saw , how many rpms
 
Ive looked on Homedepot for used rentals for sale and i must be an idiot cause i cant find a link to used rental sales.

Just visited local Stihl dealer 5 miles from house and am interested in what thoughts are on ms291 $450 or ms311 $509 or ms391 @ $579. I think that might be pushing it, but right now im just getting ideas. Dont think i would want to go bigger than the 391 or more expensive. But im still interested to hear more about echo and makita also. My dad is constantly having issues with his Husky (although thats probably because he only buys used and doesnt maintain anything right), but its given me a sour thought on Huskies none the less. I've never had a hickup with my echo since i got it in 2005, still stock, no tuning, nothing and it was a mail-order "do this online thing and you'll get a free item" scam, but i feel like i scammed them! As i got this saw for the price of shipping. Granted its only had extensive use the last 6-8 years, and only between Sept-Jan each yr. Interested in maybe looking up MM for it now-a-days and buying some carb screwdrivers to see what i can do with it. But, it runs great, why mess with it...
 
I dont get it, havent looked on Stihls site for specs yet, but why is a 4.2hp, 59cc ms311 $509 and a 4hp, 50cc ms261 C-M is $599. Now im not a motorhead and dont quite get the CC to HP stuff, so someone please enlighten me, talk to me like your 1st grader grandkid or kid....

Im a mechanic, not an engine guru. Sorry if i sound like a numbskull... i am!

Again, im not stuck on Stihl, the dealer just happens to be 5 miles from my house, unfortunately no real world demo with the chain in wood, darn.

Im also not a Ford, Chevy, Dodge fan or hater.... i drive a pontiac because its cheap on gas and it was FREE! 258,000 Miles and still getting me to work everyday, lol.
 
I dont get it, havent looked on Stihls site for specs yet, but why is a 4.2hp, 59cc ms311 $509 and a 4hp, 50cc ms261 C-M is $599. Now im not a motorhead and dont quite get the CC to HP stuff, so someone please enlighten me, talk to me like your 1st grader grandkid or kid....

Im a mechanic, not an engine guru. Sorry if i sound like a numbskull... i am!

Again, im not stuck on Stihl, the dealer just happens to be 5 miles from my house, unfortunately no real world demo with the chain in wood, darn.

Im also not a Ford, Chevy, Dodge fan or hater.... i drive a pontiac because its cheap on gas and it was FREE! 258,000 Miles and still getting me to work everyday, lol.

That 291 (and the 311 and 391 which are bigger motors on the same saw) are what Stihl calls "farm and ranch" saws. They're not pro grade equipment. Yes, they work, and cut a lot of wood for many guys, but the clamshell design is less serviceable than the pro saws. Pro saws, like the 261 have many features that add up to a piece of equipment that is much more pleasurable to run for longer times, and are generally designed to last longer.

As I mentioned, lots of guys out there are running 290s and bringing home firewood. On this forum though, you're not gonna get much advice to buy one, especially at that price. Honestly, $500 will buy you a pretty nice Stihl 044 or 440. Great saws, very reliable, great resale value, easy to work on. And without weighing that much more, they'll blow a 291/391 out of the water.
 
Thanks for the link.
Ok, so how about these HD used rental saws, are they beat to death or are they well maintained? I mean its a box store not a dealer... but looking at the link theres a Makita DCS642120Q about an hour from me for $289.

If the HD rental saws are well maintained, i could have a bigger saw for a small price and have money left over for another B&C set, a decent axe and maybe a splitting maul too. I like the idea of buying new, but im also thrifty (or maybe just a tightwad) and ive read a LOT of good things about Dolmar/Makitas, Dolkitas, whatever you wanna call 'em.
 
The 290/310/390 and its successors have done a lot of work for a lot of people. They work. If I was going to buy one of that series I would pony up and buy the 391. Yeah, an MS 261 is a “pro” saw, but if you’re going for bang for your buck and power for price new the 391 is a good option. If you do go for an MS 261, the M-Tronic carburetor is not a big deal, I’ve been running M-Tronic saws for several years and I haven’t had a failure yet, and I have an MS 441 with a *lot* of hard time on it.

I’m in my most used axe for $55 right now. I put a 5ish (probably a little heavier) lb Sager Chemical on a 30” straight handle and it’s an animal for driving wedges and I keep a good enough edge with a long enough handle where it’s a good chopper too. Council Tool makes a perfectly useful three and a half pound Dayton pattern axe, made in the U.S if it matters to you, that can be bought new for $40-45. It’s not as pretty as a Gransfors Brük, but it does work and work well.
 
As far as Axes are concerned, I don't think it's necessary to spend money on a Gransfors at all. Get on Ebay, get yourself a nice shape vintage Kelly, Plumb, or other well known quality axe head. Learn how to sharpen it properly, get the right angle on it depending on if you're chopping, splitting, or both. Grab a few handles for it and learn how to hang an axe head. It will do everything a $250 axe will do I guarantee you and you'll learn a few things along the way.

Now, if you're an axe collector or have money to burn and want a Gransfors, they're definitely amazing heads. No doubt about it they are quality. I would much rather throw big money into a professional level saw than push that money over towards an axe.
 
Never heard of Sager Chemical, honestly ive only read about Gransfors Brux a week ago, no way, im way to stingy to spend that much on an axe. Now Council Tool or Cold Steel, ok i can do that. Better than China branded from Lowes. My wife uses some old Ontario Knife Co "Old Hickory" kitchen knives handed down from my Grandma that are older than me, I've sharpened them once in 2 years and they'll still pop hairs off my arm! The whole set sells for around $50 today. I'd say theres some good bargains out there still.
 
ECHO ECHo ECho Echo echo

CS590 Cs590 cs590

$300.00 $300 300$

you mentioned motocross.. the vast majority of pro-quality saws built in the last 40 years have a vertically split magnesium (sometimes aluminum) crankcase with a one piece cylinder/head plopped on top similar to a bike engine sans tranny.

the "farm" saws from Husky or Stihl are built with a horizontally split crankcase housed in a plastic block. Meaning the upper crankcase, cylinder, and head are all one piece.

the echo 590 is a "farm" saw with pro-saw construction.

pro saws are usually ported for snappy power with a more difficult to manufacture cylinder than a typical farm saw, which is tuned for a little more midrange torque at the expense of top end power. Most pro-tuned saws will have all of the torque of the farm saws, or more, as well as more power on top with higher revs.

Anyway, you are in the right place to research the crap out of this.

The Makita 6400 from a rental place is a decent idea, as long as you get a good one...
 
046 full of fuel and oil 20" bar 76.5cc.. Feels really nimble and def not rough on the ol back or arms all day. But for a super lightweight all arounder id recommend a 346xp or 026/260/261. View attachment 789061

Do you brush your chainsaw? Careful there because CAD is an insidious disease: it starts out innocently enough, by caring too much for your saws, and before you know you are taking a dozen saws with you to cut down a single tree.
 
Do you brush your chainsaw? Careful there because CAD is an insidious disease: it starts out innocently enough, by caring too much for your saws, and before you know you are taking a dozen saws with you to cut down a single tree.

I had to brush her hair before showing her weight to everyone.. Id hate for the ol girl to kill me in my sleep.. Ive had the terminal version of cad for about 14 years but ive somewhat been able to manage it. I only buy blown saws so its not to rough on me pocket.
 
Do you brush your chainsaw? Careful there because CAD is an insidious disease: it starts out innocently enough, by caring too much for your saws, and before you know you are taking a dozen saws with you to cut down a single tree.
Yes CAD is serious. Some guys bring a dozen to cut cookies at a GTG.:crazy2: I won't mention any names @MustangMike.:laugh:
20191026_152653.jpg
 
I had to brush her hair before showing her weight to everyone.. Id hate for the ol girl to kill me in my sleep.. Ive had the terminal version of cad for about 14 years but ive somewhat been able to manage it. I only buy blown saws so its not to rough on me pocket.
You may be in denial, like any other addict, not that I have any room to talk.:rolleyes:
 
you mentioned motocross.. the vast majority of pro-quality saws built in the last 40 years have a vertically split magnesium (sometimes aluminum) crankcase with a one piece cylinder/head plopped on top similar to a bike engine sans tranny.

the "farm" saws from Husky or Stihl are built with a horizontally split crankcase housed in a plastic block. Meaning the upper crankcase, cylinder, and head are all one piece.

Unfortunately in my Motocross days, i had a buddy that did all the engine work for me, i did all the suspension, brake, frame, etc. work. Never had much experience in working on engines besides an old Traxxas Nitro 4x4 R/C truck. With the stuff i work on now-a-days, 14' Cincinnati shears and brake presses, 700 ton hydraulic die presses, etc. i'm sure i could figure out a single cylinder motor if i had to... and i'm sure that time will come eventually.
 
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