McCulloch Chain Saws

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Easy fix with a spring in it , an old transmission drive shaft seal has a good long spring in it.
The way the carb is designed doesn't allow impulse to reach the fuel the diaphragm is the barrier between air and fluid.
If you can run it with the cap off and watch the filter blow off there shouldn't be any bubbles, if there is something is definitely wrong.
Yeah i put one in the impulse line i should put one in fuel line too.
 
The intake would hold vaccum cold and leak hot...i have seen this happen on many saws before. Seems i have a direction to go in. Thanks for the help. I will let you know the outcome when i get the chance to take it apart again.
 
The intake would hold vaccum cold and leak hot...i have seen this happen on many saws before. Seems i have a direction to go in. Thanks for the help. I will let you know the outcome when i get the chance to take it apart again.

Cool would definitely like to see it cut some big wood.
 
I'd say you certainly earned it, sir! Very nice end result on those doors.
The sad part of the doors, is the farm I got the fence boards from belongs to another friend. She sold ten acres and her old Vet Clinic, with 10 acres of board fencing. The new owner wanted to put up electric fence. All of the fencing was 16' boards. Doc had my brother in law salvaging any good boards, and I was taking the rest. Came in one Monday morning and the neighbor said, I helped you out. They took a chains saw and cut a foot out from the post on both sides. Wound up with over a 1000 61/2 foot boards. Didn't have enough long boards to make my self a set of doors. Was PO'ed.
 
The sad part of the doors, is the farm I got the fence boards from belongs to another friend. She sold ten acres and her old Vet Clinic, with 10 acres of board fencing. The new owner wanted to put up electric fence. All of the fencing was 16' boards. Doc had my brother in law salvaging any good boards, and I was taking the rest. Came in one Monday morning and the neighbor said, I helped you out. They took a chains saw and cut a foot out from the post on both sides. Wound up with over a 1000 61/2 foot boards. Didn't have enough long boards to make my self a set of doors. Was PO'ed.

My neighbors are cows, one was noisy so we ate him.
Those are the best neighbors.
 
Two years ago I was on my farm, in WV, a day early. Friends were coming up to hunt Sat- Sun-Monday. We have Sunday hunting in our county. I shot a deer Friday. We don't have running water. So I boiled a big pot of water to wash up. In the middle of the night a dang mouse bit me on the thumb. I still had a speck of deer blood on it. I never really fell back to sleep. About 5AM I fixed some coffee and started reading a book. I looked up and staring in the kitchen window were two giant eyes. Scared the dickens out of me. Turned out a neighbor had an Angus escape and they couldn't catch it. They said if you see it again, shoot it.
 
Another Kevin cool we got three here now :) keep us posted on the 800 everyone was watching that and it's nice to see what will happen to it

Finally tearing the pro Mac 800 down to replace the oil reservoir, I need to look up torque specs for the case halfs unless someone has them, here's a couple pictures
of old vs new oiler and the tank ant-vibe. Another question- I have a Stihl bar either 24/25 I want to convert to fit my 700. Can I just elongate the stud holes and cut a
groove in the bar to reach the Stihl oiler holes or is there a better way. I'll also need one of those s clips or make something to eliminate the bar slop. Thanks
 

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Finally tearing the pro Mac 800 down to replace the oil reservoir, I need to look up torque specs for the case halfs unless someone has them, here's a couple pictures
of old vs new oiler and the tank ant-vibe. Another question- I have a Stihl bar either 24/25 I want to convert to fit my 700. Can I just elongate the stud holes and cut a
groove in the bar to reach the Stihl oiler holes or is there a better way. I'll also need one of those s clips or make something to eliminate the bar slop. Thanks

Cool man yeah no idea on the torque specs I would ask here like you have done. Pretty much with the bar if you can make it work then go for it I have no experience with the stihl bars but you can flip the adjuster over you can cut oil holes it's only steel just think it through and you will sort it in sure
 
Cool man yeah no idea on the torque specs I would ask here like you have done. Pretty much with the bar if you can make it work then go for it I have no experience with the stihl bars but you can flip the adjuster over you can cut oil holes it's only steel just think it through and you will sort it in sure
Was just doing a search interior bolts 55-60 in pounds exterior 35-40 in pounds
using Loctite not sure what color. Yamabond on case 1/2
 
Finally tearing the pro Mac 800 down to replace the oil reservoir, I need to look up torque specs for the case halfs unless someone has them, here's a couple pictures
of old vs new oiler and the tank ant-vibe. Another question- I have a Stihl bar either 24/25 I want to convert to fit my 700. Can I just elongate the stud holes and cut a
groove in the bar to reach the Stihl oiler holes or is there a better way. I'll also need one of those s clips or make something to eliminate the bar slop. Thanks
Ive never seen a stihl bar conversion? But you could be the first, and the mac oils through the top adjustment hole in the bar with an intersecting slot to the rail. You might be ahead of the game if you can trade your bar for a small or large husqvarna.
 
Ive never seen a stihl bar conversion? But you could be the first, and the mac oils through the top adjustment hole in the bar with an intersecting slot to the rail. You might be ahead of the game if you can trade your bar for a small or large husqvarna.
Probably but some pages back there was a Mac with a Stihl bar on it so I figured someone has already done the conversion
 
Ive never seen a stihl bar conversion? But you could be the first, and the mac oils through the top adjustment hole in the bar with an intersecting slot to the rail. You might be ahead of the game if you can trade your bar for a small or large husqvarna.

Now now, you see one almost every Saturday.
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Probably but some pages back there was a Mac with a Stihl bar on it so I figured someone has already done the conversion
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Made from some scrap SS punch outs. Drilled the bar for adjuster. I don't remember but I believe the stock adjuster holes overlap the oil groove. But I believe I also drilled from the bottom of the chain rail to the new holes. If I did it again for a .404 bar, I would drill closer to the stock holes as it can be difficult getting the clutch cover on with new stock length chains. I believe I also have a 3/8 that I did years ago. Not sure but if I did it didn't have the same issue of being too snug with a new chain. Use an old MAC bar as a template for your drilling. I like the wider belly of the Stihl bar and before I started making my own chains the ability to locally buy off the shelf Stihl chains to fit. Also the difficulty in finding 24" MAC bars in .050 play a part as well in my original decision.

Ron
 
Ive never seen a stihl bar conversion? But you could be the first, and the mac oils through the top adjustment hole in the bar with an intersecting slot to the rail. You might be ahead of the game if you can trade your bar for a small or large husqvarna.
Ive got a stihl 20" on a sp81. Very easy. A drill bit and a bench grinder a couple of hex nuts and file. Take 2 hex nuts that are close in size to the stihl slot on outer flats. Drill them out to the bar stud size of mac saw. Then take them to your bench grinder or sander and flatten them to the bar thickness. Then grind/sand the flats to fit inside the bar slot. Now put the hex nuts on your mac studs. Then place the bar on the newly made spacers. Last is the oiling. I used a file and elongated the bar adjuster holes on the bar until the slot is exposed like mac bars. Once you got that youre done. It is very easy. Figure that all bars start out as a piece of metal....they just have different holes in them. Make it work for your application. Thats what they do.
 
Now now, you see one almost every Saturday.
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Made from some scrap SS punch outs. Drilled the bar for adjuster. I don't remember but I believe the stock adjuster holes overlap the oil groove. But I believe I also drilled from the bottom of the chain rail to the new holes. If I did it again for a .404 bar, I would drill closer to the stock holes as it can be difficult getting the clutch cover on with new stock length chains. I believe I also have a 3/8 that I did years ago. Not sure but if I did it didn't have the same issue of being too snug with a new chain. Use an old MAC bar as a template for your drilling. I like the wider belly of the Stihl bar and before I started making my own chains the ability to locally buy off the shelf Stihl chains to fit. Also the difficulty in finding 24" MAC bars in .050 play a part as well in my original decision.

Ron
Sorry guys I totally blanked on the Saturday reports! Well there we go!
I use the Oregon 24" bar its .050
 
Ive got a stihl 20" on a sp81. Very easy. A drill bit and a bench grinder a couple of hex nuts and file. Take 2 hex nuts that are close in size to the stihl slot on outer flats. Drill them out to the bar stud size of mac saw. Then take them to your bench grinder or sander and flatten them to the bar thickness. Then grind/sand the flats to fit inside the bar slot. Now put the hex nuts on your mac studs. Then place the bar on the newly made spacers. Last is the oiling. I used a file and elongated the bar adjuster holes on the bar until the slot is exposed like mac bars. Once you got that youre done. It is very easy. Figure that all bars start out as a piece of metal....they just have different holes in them. Make it work for your application. Thats what they do.

That's clever using the nuts I like that
 
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