some advice for my 015L rebuild

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1hander

ArboristSite Operative
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hello again guys..
im also workin on an 015L... i was gonna put another ring and seals in it..but its at 149 psi compression.the piston looks new with no scarrin or scratches of any kind, just needed a carb rebuild and it idles great
on the first start it takes two or three yanks, so thought maybe it needs seals but maybe not, i dont want to separate the cases if i dont have to.. but it runs like a scalded dog LOL

so ... the clutch spring is pretty roasted.. i was thinking instead of putting a used clutch spring in it, to just use the three shoe clutch assembly 1114-160-2001 and switch to a 3/8 chain sprocket , that already has the teeth cut down a bit to use the same oiler gear , i know i will need a need a nut and extra washers that go before and after the clutch but other than that i think it will work on the same crankshaft or at least thats what the 015 IPL says

cuz the 08s uses 3/8 .050 chain , my pops gave me an old roll of oregon chain 3/8 .050 .. with no rust.. its the last roll he had not used some 35 years ago.. so i have lots of that chain.. so i was planning on using 3/8 .050 full chisel on both saws,,, can i use that chain on this .015

finding a bar for the .015 in 3/8 .050 should not be a problem at all
 
i got the above figured out... my last question is, can i reuse the old needle bearing on the 3/8 clutch drum
 
LOL/// ok guys.. i stuck with what goes on a 3/8 picco.. how bout the needle bearing for the clutch drum, can u reuse it
 
ill get pics up, where do you guys host your pics

how come when i look up the part number for piston rings on this 015L i get a part with two piston rings but the piston only uses one ring..
 
that definitely the part number i have, the stihl bag has two piston rings in that size...

so after checking the compression its at 147-149, i decided to go ahead and put a new piston and ring, compression on this saw i think gets as good as 170-175 , do you guys think just a ring would get that back up.. im doubt it will ever go that high cuz of cylinder wear and im not gonna find a new cylinder, i wish i could. but u found anew stihl piston and ring and or i found a new stihl ring replacement..

im gonna go ahead strip and repaint and replace a couple of missing parts and incorrect/chewed up bolts,

man is there a trick to getting these four damn bolts that hold the cases together out...jeezzzzz im darn near peein a little trying to get them out and they wont budge... i got just the heads to twist just a hair but it seems like someone may have put locktight on the threads ....holy cow

is there anyplace that maybe does cylinder recoating, i know that would probly be way too expensive but it was just an idea..i thought about that and also maybe doing anti friction coating on the piston to increase the diameter just a smidge..

i know this is all probably way to much trouble to go through for an old saw but i like thes all metal old saws and they will probably still be running strong when im gone and my kids get them..
 
wooohoooo more bad news, now im glad i cracked the cases, my son had to lean on the screws pretty hard but they came loose..
crank bearings are snug with little to no play in em
big end con rod big end roller bearings are snug with no scarring at all nice and shiny
small end con rod is screwed theres a big scar inside the bushing surface and it is chewed on the wrist pen and binds on the con rod

con rod has a twist in it towards the small end and has scarring on the side of it where it was chewing into the piston side.
so i have a line on a new stihl con rod, the crank is missing check rings 1116 036 9000 and had crankwalk because of it
i think thats what caused the twist in the conrod

piston has the little ridges worn off and is shiny..so a bit worn and piston ring looks a bit thin.
so i found a new stihl piston and ring.. AFTER Looking at closeup pics of piston.it looks bran new.. some one didnt put the check washers in when they put a new piston in it.

i found an almost new cylinder but i read that the cylinder is machined with the case where the crank bearings sit. and are a mated pair
is that true and does that mean i have to keep this cylinder
the cylinder has no scarring whatsover.but it is shiny and has some where for sure.

i cant believe it ran that good...what do you guys think..
rick
 
i think i have a 015 instead of an 015L
the conrod i found had a needle bearing on the small end
but my conrod does no use a needle bearing on the small end , just a bearing surface
so a needle bearing conrod will not fit on my piston any way ,
i just want to try and be as sure a s possible that the below theory will work,
i think it will

the needle bearing small end conrod and piston are below (i think 015L)
so can i use 015L 1116 030 1200 conrod
with 015L 1116 030 2001 piston
and of course matching wrist pin and ring.
can i use the above with my crank which i believe is 015
 
At4bzvRKYUaG-89qgpZ_N01wgGS1QOEfp8uU6qsVEk0WnCuUoJwQyrWzmxjvTBKTMdAIVLnMlbtI4xL1bSN3GOfh3QSbbmtZulytY1RMdFV5EsUobWPaj0Xi_mSq4Hb8enWHqEaG8CJjLxBjZyh88x-ftC_8UST4FCwKPKeFHZ6PwAFcIeVvpVfI2DdQW-1ttEuEbOJjIjZsd8wXySGM8aE5oIeQQCE9v8o4QA65sj_dgjjFDOgPuVIzQdLKuhE_UiDjDm0IRlnG4kFdU6b4-u2Dg6XHS-njRIGO7sSDA6AW4X9zgM28TDehSzEU4QQ9eRbWoYxR1ME-iRMp3hbTtTbDnp_AHkw8nCHVTzb1ni8-jVOofbqmmY4Hr8v93hpq4ZeKtDjDXNJ8I00VGuN2HMlJBN7rkboeN0lVeKfVHzmcWkAjfXwIIeEKbXZkwuLC1a2vPm_vdGzkK0XqoUCWUOEBIQJPiJkdb6N5_G3CDhBlkR6V8FyRH_zKXyUpH5hLL2mszILzKgnqoH8MTl_vCuixe_mivR3PO7ResQY630zPvbk7L8I2Cxd-q26rXUskT25B0136z0GQ3qUh_9_LNMXEhoCWJl0oOzTfpyXKlamvFpHPGH6I5fi2Ss_kvHS5eQgn_fLiLiiDMlrA2ijTdhZze1YtxKi8V-ry1lj3sOwSX7YdHLLN9nM=w1922-h911-no
watta you guys think of this cylinder

AF1QipPtLGcnvLMeoeRge2PvQbANb_tBnd5F0jS7Ma1c
 
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the above is my original conrod. medium rare of course

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AF1QipPtLGcnvLMeoeRge2PvQbANb_tBnd5F0jS7Ma1c


the above, is my original and is all round on the bottom skirt, so its not a stihl piston

6iQJXtnX8ebcAiiE2O3h4G6n6y8SkRurDp8id_qvcjPDL8a1tX94HhZXw9Cm3GigbHxkfMIguhtB_vZuc4nU8NRETou0N9-nE_EYkVdQQGBRnkfuNx_z0LkUnLIbbzcY1Ct40_1ALnYQgF265FO_uM20P9s0skgvFBAKPa0cUjSrHkFhWUJuVQRta69MsSCJKxILZoTEMi6fAAN-I71576aW0YhfohD9X0ZntXHC39TbSylNm79R-k-3kw517uEiHeLWlcMxKt9yl38SRuD-qbOIEc81T_eZb-XcfShKWkimZUWSicZ4SQPnqWfVgR4Ek6vTqESN68OQxLpsmF6ma2CtL2TMMATFxhhOQTSSd1sF9rZMYwlRz6jH4Yz2A5HxhEy5VfpZ9KkQMChW7e1-B9fBWqcxX85T8tYtcHIYmwT3iAjxA5lsGdnPyPZoDBMcRcHmZKgDd6c3ancq3-lDGNEF48WrU1yWaKh1vYRgOXQHvJ_45wa6vpct7MYe8FfOApWWl0Yr1juh5SFHNPsy3A1_iXT45hCw8PJYytUzJ22NltPiBlqB2hZCu28seHWG9TQQrxq3gQYxGrFNYE_2CmoMNR54WD2kpHBI3cw9NZ2s4-1jRSOJqu7tORmzxEDjhOAsMoIZ1epOLWzJHQJYUHLzsa_EZCvIEDpjHRG0Tblvm6s2tF03UcE=w676-h901-no

the above is the newer piston from i guess 015L , notice the design of the skirt on the bottom , and inside on the wrist pin mount
the cut is wider to accommodate the needle bearing on the newer style rod with needle bearing

4CQzK5niPVc7qp4toIPW2TfnbjPp9AFz4jyE2ln5iVOZg9LUKKnjAZC-IQ333OaaNsRnzAM3Uyb1Amn4Fx3rmaVjsu0z984Lfp15jBDpY-5_Dtq084Kf1AXmdh_K4XHeATogrlAwVPR3nlSCZq652urBj8PTi3EwErNd9NULzgGXoDVTSFgI4qtSunyyYN6i-QzILfi5LgkcjAqVcv6n13R4BbfWPkLMbFV30KGt4TbVez-Wq3mxmKta3j94MyielKpBiWD5FV6a5I0VvIKWPFhE-LgxTzTeZgwOQWmyygVr_YEVYpC88rryvIAuSUTjwOZejel3OxOa3WF3ueV_8fr6Z1atZrRaRQyPHpde72jFqN7A9Qq8JzpNhP2XcNqW7Kgnf_AGnLEtEVydJ2YUlK68T2yeU65AhJCIbwNk1Ci9QQUzZvKnHbD17kvI-MVBUGsxm1ohem9rakTNKlrlkzyoToJOFaAGYKk3FDrrcISyuAivHky7Ug7FTApF6y307Nz6q7HIate9bd1XG25g8ElFHhkHViwb4LIO6mBBgNquJTBMvgEYcZvuHS_9_tfcX0L55EQrCw37gxODqv6XKJF9be9iYxCBefS5nea-xZP1Y6y7QMjqtW_zwJP_Xp6nJkNCoIfSp1v5bRL4kLyjXDtr760Dw8lqFMQcmU2SrScx9V4cQDD0Xxo=w1024-h768-no

the above is the conrod that goes with piston right above it...

the big end should match up fine to my existing conrod.. im not sure if the difference in skirt design will cause and interference issue on the crank counterweights or on the inside of the crank housing, i would like to use the newer type conrod with needle bearing if possible
 
sharing some pics with you guys, took a bit to get all the old paint off..and i found a guy with lots of NOS 015 stuff even a cylinder and crankcase/ new piston/ring, crank bearings, new crank, conn rod etc etc etc, im happy right now man.. so ill be buying spares from him month to month to stock up on wear and tear items once i get this guy running strong..that way my kid will have spares to rebuild this again maybe after im dead and gone. once i get the new piston, in from him, i can move forward with the assembly, i also purchased a 3 shoe clutch to change from the 2 shoe thats on it right now,




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i got a run on a couple of the fins...getting paint in there is super tough..i ended up using pin point fan setting , really low pressure and low volume on the paint flow and basically airbrushed about 30 layers a little at a time. but that after the sags you see on the fins.
 
just wanted to finish this thread, i do have an 015L, it is an early version with a non needle bearing small connecting rod version.. i was able to find a new piston for a non needle bearing connecting rod,
i found a new correct rod and piston and ring for this model and used a new cylinder i found on ebay...
compression check before starting with oiled cylinder showed 187psi
after 1 rich tank and 2 tanks leaning a bit each time for a cautious break in
it ended up with 185 compression , checking it hot just after running through a tree
i got lucky and even though these saws come with a matched cylinder and crank case, just using the new cylinder
after torquing the screws down to the journals, all the slack in bearings went away and i have no binding at all.
i think i just got lucky

the conversion to 3/8 from 1/4 only required changing the oiler pinion gear to match the 3/8 clutch drum..
the clutch drums teeth are made with a small step in them to key intto the new 3/8 oiler pinion gear
so no machining was required.

after all the replacement bits and pain, its beautiful string little that will outlive me and i can pass on to my sons or daughter LOL

thank you guys all so much for all of your support and knowledge in this,
i love giving these old saws new life.
and getting mym hand dirty and passing knowledge on to my sons and daughter once in a while.
thank you all
now on to the 08s
 
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