Saw rebuild, Muffler cleaning on ms 039 Help.

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Hi guys,

the muffler I have for the 039 is a complete unit and can’t be disassembled (I don’t think?).

when I shake it it rattles and looks full of carbon from what I can see, but can’t access.

im rebuilding the saw and would like to do it right, can anyone advice me what to do with it to get it cleaned out or advise me on what I can do to make it as good as it “can” (pun intended) be?

thanks guys!
 
You can grind the seam or cut a window in it to work the innards over and re-braze when finished. If that's too involved, a lot of shaking and compressed air through the entrance are all you have. Make sure to open the outlet some when you're done to help the saw breathe.
 
You can grind the seam or cut a window in it to work the innards over and re-braze when finished. If that's too involved, a lot of shaking and compressed air through the entrance are all you have. Make sure to open the outlet some when you're done to help the saw breathe.
Excellent thank you :) Is brazing using aluminum to “weld” (braze?) the part back on?

I may start with the compressed air option?
 
Brazing is typically a brass fill rod and oxy-fuel gas torch. Acetylene and MAPP are the two most common fuels people use. Can't remember if Oxy-propane burns hot enough for brass. Standard air-fuel torches won't get hot enough. I've got a high quality, turbo torch that can silver solder small items OK. Silver solder is really 90%brass 10%silver, often used on refrigeration lines...
Oxy-fuel torch will perform much better.
 
Don't bother too much with it.
I flipped an MS290 who had more carbon buildup than I have ever seen: I suspect the previous owner ran it on >4% premix using engine oil. Fine for the engine protection (and providing a protective smoke screen) but terrible for carbon buildup.
Anyway after decoking the cylinder I just tapped the muffler, brushed the spark arrestor screen and it was good enough work. Remember these are the simplest mufflers around not racing expansion chambers.
 
Cheaper to just buy a new replacement.
Yes most likely! I’ll have to have a proper look and decide, but they aren’t cheap here in Oz! I asked for a quote on a 260 (both parts) and it wasn’t far off 300 Aussi dollars! :dumb:

Maybe I can unfold the lip and get it apart? I haven’t had a good look for a while and my memory is akin to a goldfish! I do know it’s black and rattles though:rock:
 
Yes most likely! I’ll have to have a proper look and decide, but they aren’t cheap here in Oz! I asked for a quote on a 260 (both parts) and it wasn’t far off 300 Aussi dollars! :dumb:

Maybe I can unfold the lip and get it apart? I haven’t had a good look for a while and my memory is akin to a goldfish! I do know it’s black and rattles though:rock:

I keep forgetting you are in Aus. and the horrific prices you pay there for this stuff. For me the time involved to save a $40. item just wouldn`t be worth it and my concern with this is that carbon and or rust can get back into the cylinder where it most often will cause damage.
 
Yes most likely! I’ll have to have a proper look and decide, but they aren’t cheap here in Oz! I asked for a quote on a 260 (both parts) and it wasn’t far off 300 Aussi dollars! :dumb:

Maybe I can unfold the lip and get it apart? I haven’t had a good look for a while and my memory is akin to a goldfish! I do know it’s black and rattles though:rock:

A Chinese aftermarket muffler for 1127 series saws is US$15 or so shipped. If you need it just order it after they are back from the Lunar New celebrations (a week or so) because right now the whole country is on vacation.
But I am sure if you tap your muffler on a piece of soft wood for a while you'll get whatever tingling in there for about $0. Just remember to post a picture of it. ;)
 
Tom, I'm having the same questions regarding my cousins ms290.

The "rattle" is the inner baffle disintigrating and parts flopping. Not good if a part works it's way back inside.

If you have a torch, you can heat the crimp and split muffler to remove baffle, then recrimp. Not really worth the effort IMHO.

I'm looking at Chi-Com mufflers if my cousin does not want to $pend for OEM.

Muff mod seems to be enlarge and connect existing outlet holes (make two slots), then open up the deflector a bit.

I'm still waiting on my other thread for replies.........
 
Tom, I'm having the same questions regarding my cousins ms290.

The "rattle" is the inner baffle disintigrating and parts flopping. Not good if a part works it's way back inside.

If you have a torch, you can heat the crimp and split muffler to remove baffle, then recrimp. Not really worth the effort IMHO.

I'm looking at Chi-Com mufflers if my cousin does not want to $pend for OEM.

Muff mod seems to be enlarge and connect existing outlet holes (make two slots), then open up the deflector a bit.

I'm still waiting on my other thread for replies.........
Okie dokie, just went outside to grab the muffler, I have discovered the shaking around is the baffle but when I pressed against it it stopped making the noise. Then I went and slipped the bolts through the exhaust and snugged them up and the ratteling totally stopped. That’s great news, but I still need to remove as much carbon as I can and rust from inside the baffle, probably with a dremel should do it, good air compressing and Hoover and I should be fairly good to go. I hate these one piece exhausts that you can’t get inside
 
If you want to get rid of the carbon a propane torch, or throw the muffler in a fire for a while.

Besides the baffle there are three sleeves that the screws go through to keep the muffler from collapsing when you tighten the screws.

My cousins ms 290 muffler is way worse shape, you can hear stuff rattle when it was still bolted up to the saw
 
Wo
If you want to get rid of the carbon a propane torch, or throw the muffler in a fire for a while.

Besides the baffle there are three sleeves that the screws go through to keep the muffler from collapsing when you tighten the screws.

My cousins ms 290 muffler is way worse shape, you can hear stuff rattle when it was still bolted up to the saw
wow that really works? Just pass a flame through from one end until it’s very hot and then air blow when it’s cool?

sorry to hear about your rattle! Nice that it’s not your saw though hehe
 

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