How much chain do you use up before you retire a chain?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GrizG

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
3,384
Reaction score
17,848
Location
Mid-Hudson Valley
While cutting a few weeks ago my helper commented that I got my money's worth out of the chain... I was reminded of the comment today while filing the chain in the photo below. I've got plenty of others so it isn't like I "have" to keep using it! It's hit more than it's share of nails, fences, fence staples, j-hooks, and other non-wood items but it keeps coming back to life. ;)

BTW, it is the chain that came with the saw... All my others are full chisel.

I'm curious to know how much of a chain you use before you retire it? Why?

IMG_1979.jpg
 
They cut the best at that stage a smaller file and don't snag the chain on stringy wood or they bust off. I steal good cutters off an old chain grind up the rivets and pop. Then use a hammer to peen it on to your "good" chain lol I had 1 20 inch loop with 6 cutters I had done this to. I like how they cut. Buy a bag of presets and chains can last for a long time
 
They cut the best at that stage a smaller file and don't snag the chain on stringy wood or they bust off. I steal good cutters off an old chain grind up the rivets and pop. Then use a hammer to peen it on to your "good" chain lol I had 1 20 inch loop with 6 cutters I had done this to. I like how they cut. Buy a bag of presets and chains can last for a long time
That chains in the middle of being converted to square. The rivets will be ground but not popped out. Kinda becoming a play chain for GTGs.
 
Chains are cheap compared to saws. When one gets about 2/3 s down it goes in the trash....One thing I have learned when buying a saw if it has a chain worn as low as it can get the saw will have other problems because (not always) the owner was to cheap to put good 2 cycle oil, probably used burnt motor bar oil and didn't do proper maintenance. I have bought a lot of saws and I will not bid as high if the chain is about toothless, and it is not about just the worn chain as it speak for the cheap owner. I am working on a couple now I should have told him no about like this...
 
Run ‘em until they can’t be filed or ground anymore. Or the teeth break off for most cutting. I don’t see the need to waste the chain or the cash behind it. Especially if I’m close to the truck. Just swap to another good one and throw the unusable one in the scrap when it’s time to go back to the shop.

When I’m on a hand crew I’ll almost always run newer chains. I’m usually a long way from home, or even the pickup, and don’t want to carry a ton of chains so breaking a tooth off isn’t exactly an option. If I only carry two I’d rather not make a pseudo-skip that cuts funky and only have one I trust. Which inevitably is then rocked (Murphy’s law) and then you’re ****ered.
 
Chains are cheap compared to saws. When one gets about 2/3 s down it goes in the trash....One thing I have learned when buying a saw if it has a chain worn as low as it can get the saw will have other problems because (not always) the owner was to cheap to put good 2 cycle oil, probably used burnt motor bar oil and didn't do proper maintenance. I have bought a lot of saws and I will not bid as high if the chain is about toothless, and it is not about just the worn chain as it speak for the cheap owner. I am working on a couple now I should have told him no about like this...

I'm not buying this theory. I have several loops with only 10% of their life left. I think contrary to what you're saying, rather than spend m waste money on unneeded new chains, I spent money on good 2-stroke oil and good bar oil, fuel filters, air filters, etc.
 
Chains are cheap compared to saws. When one gets about 2/3 s down it goes in the trash....One thing I have learned when buying a saw if it has a chain worn as low as it can get the saw will have other problems because (not always) the owner was to cheap to put good 2 cycle oil, probably used burnt motor bar oil and didn't do proper maintenance. I have bought a lot of saws and I will not bid as high if the chain is about toothless, and it is not about just the worn chain as it speak for the cheap owner. I am working on a couple now I should have told him no about like this...

I have taken my chains down to the limit, and my saws are in great shape. I was told that race chains are often run with the smallest of cutter material left. Maybe true, but I didn't notice much difference. Of course I wasn't monitoring the performance with a stop watch. There can be many reasons to take a chain to the limit. Being a negligent owner is not one of them, IMO. A badly rusted and very dull chain would indicate a negligent owner.
 
View attachment 791467 So top chain is a sign I dont take care of my saws but bottom chain means I do?
I said not always.....I buy and sell saws everyday as I bought 2 yesterday, but it has happened several times and that is one thing I watch especially if a picture is all I have......People would not come to this board if they did not have a good care/concern for their saws. Other people own saws also.
 
Chains are cheap compared to saws. When one gets about 2/3 s down it goes in the trash....One thing I have learned when buying a saw if it has a chain worn as low as it can get the saw will have other problems because (not always) the owner was to cheap to put good 2 cycle oil, probably used burnt motor bar oil and didn't do proper maintenance. I have bought a lot of saws and I will not bid as high if the chain is about toothless, and it is not about just the worn chain as it speak for the cheap owner. I am working on a couple now I should have told him no about like this...

Not sure I'd use that criteria alone to judge a saw... The saw that is used with the chain I showed in the original post has no paint left on the bar either... However, that bar has been well maintained (draw filed, swagged, flipped and kept clean) and has a lot of life left in it. I run synthetic mix oil and fuel with no ethanol. I replaced the clutch drum and clutch. The saw has also been cleaned regularly to aid in cooling. It runs like a champ.

I recently let a kid borrow it for a Game of Logging class I hosted. It was the only saw there that the instructor didn't criticize. Everything works as it should and it was the only one that he said "That saw is sharp." I've got other saws but that one gets used the most... so I make sure it works!
 
My son sells Stihl and Husky saws. I'm in the store regularly and see what people are buying... It is baffling to me how many people (non-pros) buy new chains instead of sharpening them or having them sharpened. I've thought about having the store offer to dispose of "old chains" when people bring them in to get new ones "like this one." I'd never have to buy a chain again! :)
 
I do throw away those anti kickback stock chains and replace with full chisel, I may still have a couple in the garage but don't like em'.

I run my chains to the line unless I hit a rock real bad then I pitch it......takes to long to hand file and my hands get tired.
 
I have a pole saw with a 9 or 10" inch chain that had been sharpened two dozen times and was stretched out so bad it ran out of adjustment and kept falling off the bar. That's what I get for lending it out so much.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top