Chainsaw bar dressing tools

[JW51]

For us mere mortals who don’t have a bar shop or even a disc sander....

Are the little bar dresser tools (Oregon, Vallorbe, knockoffs) worth the investment over just eye-balling it with a flat file?

I’ve just used a file up to now, but I have my doubts that I get the rails perfectly even.

 

[svk]

I just use a flat file.

I also will use a "pick tool" if I come across a used bar that has the channel really gunked up. I was given a Husky RSN bar from a fellow member that had spent some time outside. It needed a new nose (Archer has them for $8) and then had to clean a lot of rusty goo out of the channel. Bar went out on a saw I sold and is still running to my knowledge.

I think it was @Gypo Logger who had mentioned several years ago that bars will last a lot longer if you take off the ridge the as soon as you feel it versus letting it get very noticeable and then taking off a lot of metal at one shot.

 

[JW51]

I just use a flat file.

I also will use a "pick tool" if I come across a used bar that has the channel really gunked up. I was given a Husky RSN bar from a fellow member that had spent some time outside. It needed a new nose (Archer has them for $8) and then had to clean a lot of rusty goo out of the channel. Bar went out on a saw I sold and is still running to my knowledge.

I think it was @Gypo Logger who had mentioned several years ago that bars will last a lot longer if you take off the ridge the as soon as you feel it versus letting it get very noticeable and then taking off a lot of metal at one shot.

You’re talking the burr on the side/corner? Been trying to address that when I can feel even a very small one.

Is it necessary to file the tops of the rails each time you file off the side burr? Or only when you can notice they’re uneven?

 

[svk]

Correct, the side burr. I have never needed to address uneven rail tops.

 

[Evan]

Grinder with 80gr flap disc

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I have the stihl bar dresser as well as a bench grinder with 90 degree angle.

the dresser seems to work ok unless you have some serious removal. Hope this helps.

 

[JW51]

One observation: One of my bars is a Tsumura and the other a Stihl ES. The steel on the Tsumuru is MUCH harder. Like my file doesn’t really want to bite it.

That’s not to say harder is necessarily better. I just found it interesting.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

One observation: One of my bars is a Tsumura and the other a Stihl ES. The steel on the Tsumuru is MUCH harder. Like my file doesn’t really want to bite it.

That’s not to say harder is necessarily better. I just found it interesting.

Wow that is interesting! Nice!

 

[Stem450Husky]

I use an Oregon tool to square the rails, then a flat file for the edges/nose. I use an air nozzle to clean out the grooves & oil holes.

being a Machinist by trade doesn't help matters lol

 

[svk]

One observation: One of my bars is a Tsumura and the other a Stihl ES. The steel on the Tsumuru is MUCH harder. Like my file doesn’t really want to bite it.

That’s not to say harder is necessarily better. I just found it interesting.

I have some drill bits that can vouch for the hardness of a Tsumura Bar. And by comparison Stihl bars are significantly harder than Oregon and other bars.

 

[Mad Professor]

I just use a flat file.

I also will use a "pick tool" if I come across a used bar that has the channel really gunked up. I was given a Husky RSN bar from a fellow member that had spent some time outside. It needed a new nose (Archer has them for $8) and then had to clean a lot of rusty goo out of the channel. Bar went out on a saw I sold and is still running to my knowledge.

I think it was @Gypo Logger who had mentioned several years ago that bars will last a lot longer if you take off the ridge the as soon as you feel it versus letting it get very noticeable and then taking off a lot of metal at one shot.

After a bunch of sharpenings, I remove the bar, clean the groove, and the saw around the clutch and cover. Check that clutch bearing is smooth/no wobbles.

I put the bar in a vise, file off any burr, then draw file the bar smooth/even. A really large sharp/new bastard file works best. The cheap Chi-Com files don't work well on the hardened steel of the bar well either. When the bar goes back on it's flipped to even wear on rails.

If the bar rails get really bad/uneven, I use a vertical belt sander, then draw file to smooth the rails. I've taken really abused bars and fixed/trued them with a belt sander.

You also need to make sure the groove is not worn in width, and if dressed many times that the chain drivers do not bottom out in the groove

You can make a tool to clean the groove from a large nail. Peen the end with a BFH until it's mushroomed out to the width of the groove, if you want you can file a hook onto it but that's not needed. Make up a couple, one for the shop, the other for your woods tool kit

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I use the end of an old coping saw blade to scrape out my bar grooves and my raker file to clean up any burrs.

 

[AmateurSawer]

So far,I've had success with using the same file I file the rakers with.A Pfred 6" file.For cleaning I have a Stihl depth gauge which has a point on the end.Does a great job of cleaning the groove.I've also used the small screwdriver that would be used to adjust the carburetor.
I like the nail idea for a backup.Piece of paracord on the fuel can handle would carry it and a scrench.

 

[Brent Nowell]

This may sound silly but it happened to me for almost a year. Lol

I used to take a file and literally file up on the outer edge to remove the lip formed from heavy use. It was exhausting and fricken annoying, then I saw a video where a guy just positioned the file at a 45 degree angle vertically and 10 degrees horizontally and with pressure on it ran it down once along the entire edge. Removed the burr completely...

I tried it and it works perfectly. I cant believe I used to file about 100 consecutive times down the side of a bar to remove birds when all I had to do was what I described above...

facepalm!

 

[Huskybill]

I started with the flat file first. Then I purchased the $52 1” x30” belt sander from harbor freight. Back then I didn’t have much extra money. Setting the table at 90 degrees exactly using the set screw stop works.

Using the 1” belt sander I brought bars back to life with chunks of metal missing on the rails.
I did favors for the ones using used motor oil.

 

[Brent Nowell]

I started with the flat file first. Then I purchased the $52 1” x30” belt sander from harbor freight. Back then I didn’t have much extra money. Setting the table at 90 degrees exactly using the set screw stop works.

Using the 1” belt sander I brought bars back to life with chunks of metal missing on the rails.
I did favors for the ones using used motor oil.

Very interesting sketch bill, why do you chamfer the edges of the inside groove?
Also how do you chamfer the inside edge? What tool?

 

[Huskybill]

One side of the raker file has teeth on the side. Or use a triangle file.

The saw chain I drew in the pic has a square inside upper edge that might grab the square inside edge on the bar. This can act as a brake and slow the chain down. Just a little chamfer will eliminate that.

I’ve always done it this way when dressing the bar rails, clean out the groove, chamfer the edges, grease the bar nose and clutch. That’s bar maintenance to me.

 

[Brent Nowell]

One side of the raker file has teeth on the side. Or use a triangle file.

The saw chain I drew in the pic has a square inside upper edge that might grab the square inside edge on the bar. This can act as a brake and slow the chain down. Just a little chamfer will eliminate that.

I’ve always done it this way when dressing the bar rails, clean out the groove, chamfer the edges, grease the bar nose and clutch. That’s bar maintenance to me.

Sounds like really good advice thank you bill!

 

[JW51]

This may sound silly but it happened to me for almost a year. Lol

I used to take a file and literally file up on the outer edge to remove the lip formed from heavy use. It was exhausting and fricken annoying, then I saw a video where a guy just positioned the file at a 45 degree angle vertically and 10 degrees horizontally and with pressure on it ran it down once along the entire edge. Removed the burr completely...

I tried it and it works perfectly. I cant believe I used to file about 100 consecutive times down the side of a bar to remove birds when all I had to do was what I described above...

facepalm!

Could you explain that a little more or link to the video?

 

[Brent Nowell]

Could you explain that a little more or link to the video?

When I get home I will take some pictures to help explain