Well used 372 suggestions

[Scott chandler]

Just got a buy in a rough looking 372. It starts right up and runs just not as strong as my other 372’s . You could call this a winter boredom project. I don’t want to split case new bearings kind of deal but i would like to replace c/p and want your suggestions for brand and where to purchase and i will replace the brake bar that’s missing and put new fuel oil lines in. As far as all the plastic - well i have one of those hutzl farmertec fake 372 and i may. Just may rob some of the plastic and brake from it since it won’t start. Maybe even it’s muffler This is a project so i want any suggestions you got

 

[Ketchup]

A 372OE jug is a fine thing. No need to replace it unless it’s badly scored. Probably just needs new rings, fuel/pulse lines and diaphragms, maybe a piston and crank seals. Delete the base gasket while your at it and add an extra muffler port. That should make a good bump in performace.

If you want to bump power more, the newer 52mm Hyway popup kits are getting a good reputation and are cheap. Porting your original cylinder would be even better.

 

[Scott chandler]

Ketchup i appreciate it. Don’t know a lot about porting or even read about it. If the cylinder has no ugly grooves then i could reuse but i like the 52mm upgrade - appeals to me. I want it to run strong but also want it to last. If the saw is in good shape as far as main bearings you think it Is smart to put the pop up 52 in and will cylinder hold up as well as oe. Read the walls of some of the am wear prematurely- is hyway cylinder nikasil or whatever last ? Will the new cylinder work exactly as far as intake ? Or any mods have to be done ? And who has the hyway 52 Kit. Thanks.

 

[Ketchup]

Hmm. This really isn’t a trading post thread, maybe it should be moved over to Chainsaws.

There are a lot of reasons why people prefer the OEM cylinder to an aftermarket big bore, so don’t rush into that. There have been many AM kit failures and many kits of very poor quality. Quality control from brands like Hyway and Meteor appears to have improved, but there is a risk. Plating is one of the big issues and may not show up for a while. OEM is definitely the safe bet for longevity, but many AM cylinders are dependable daily runners.

Before you spend money on a cylinder kit, I would go through the saw. Check the piston for scoring, Pressure/Vac test it for leaks, replace old consumables like fuel and Vac lines, carb diaphragms, fuel filter, crank seals. Find some build threads on 372 and read those. You might end up wanting to do a little grinding after all.

I get the kits from Ryan at Wolf Creek Saw Shop in Como, Colorado. He’s on Ebay and has his own website as well. Great place for Meteor Pistons as well. The Hyway kits are widely available. Many other places sell them. Ryan vouches for his parts and has never sent me junk.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

That saw is rough and why put a new p/c on it and not spend extra $30 on case bearings, seals and gasket set. New fuel, impulse line and filter. Hyway 372 p/c, nope.

 

[chipper1]

@pioneerguy600 could we get this moved please .
Thank you sir .

 

[chipper1]

Just got a buy in a rough looking 372. It starts right up and runs just not as strong as my other 372’s . You could call this a winter boredom project. I don’t want to split case new bearings kind of deal but i would like to replace c/p and want your suggestions for brand and where to purchase and i will replace the brake bar that’s missing and put new fuel oil lines in. As far as all the plastic - well i have one of those hutzl farmertec fake 372 and i may. Just may rob some of the plastic and brake from it since it won’t start. Maybe even it’s muffler This is a project so i want any suggestions you got

Congrats on the new saw .
Did you check the piston for scoring as @Ketchup was referring to, do you know the compression?
Were you making a comparison with the chain that's on it in the pictures.
Pretty sure the dawg on the clutch side could be creating a bit of drag on the chain, and all the more with the chain on it in the pictures, flip it over!
It's also probably not running anywhere near the rpms it should be because the air filter is probably plugged with fines, what is the current no load rpms at?
Looks like it's been stored in some very dry conditions, as ketchup and @Duce said change out the lines and I'd want everything rubber replaced as it will most likely crack if it hasn't already, and I'd add the intake to the list.
If you aren't into doing all that then list it for sale here in the trading post and let someone else do all the work on it and buy one that is ready to go .

Another add on, if your comparing it to the xtorq saw you got off Joe, it won't have that kind of torque, this saw has to be kept in the power band which is much higher than the xtorq saws. What that means is it will cut way slower when you ask it to run at a lower rpm.

 

[Scott chandler]

Duce i have never split a case before is reason. Almost bought the tool when doing a different saw. I haven’t even removed muffler yet but plan to today maybe. My wood pile is too big for me to be messing with a saw but dang i love working on them. I don’t need this saw - it’s just i think I’m addicted like rest of you fellas. Ketchup Chipper and Duce the last posts is exactly what i needed to hear. I was expecting it to run like the xtorq from joe and it’s nowhere close. I didn’t mean for this post to turn into a how to so hope somebody moves it.
Ok I’m going to stick with oem and use my cylinder and piston if not scored. I don’t have a way to pressure test or even compression test but i have a brother-in-law that can he’s just hard to get him to do much - busy like the rest of us.
I will turn dawg right side up and will run it some today. Chain cuts ok and I’ll replace air filter. I don’t have a lot invested in saw and from y’all’s last post i believe I’m going to bite the bullet and do it all. I will post more questions in a new post when i start on it. One more question though. Would you have cylinder ported ? If it were your saw and you wanted a little more power and who does porting and is it expensive.
I have a good 394 Oem cylinder to trade for a ported 372 cylinder if Anybody is interested

 

[Scott chandler]

Just read a few post on porting - maybe I’ll just stick with stock. Looks time consuming and expensive. Does porting increase torque or widen the power band similar to xtorq ?

 

[cuinrearview]

Just read a few post on porting - maybe I’ll just stick with stock. Looks time consuming and expensive. Does porting increase torque or widen the power band similar to xtorq ?

A good builder can tailor it to whatever you would like.

 

[Huskitoter]

There are different degrees of porting. The threads you read probably show where people are using lathes and such to squeeze every ounce of power out of one. Simply raising the cylinder wall beneath the transfer by the width of the base gasket with a flat file is also considered porting. If you happen to remove a little metal when cleaning up the exhaust port with some 60 grit, all the better.

A cheap way to bump up the power is an AM popup piston. However, I would use a caber ring with it. That, along with a woods port and base gasket delete should yield a nice power increase.

Having all the options is a good thing but makes it harder to decide what route to take.

 

[Scott chandler]

Ht i know the fellas in the know think i got adhd but i don’t. I’m kinda like a fella that loves a fine tuned strong saw without being foolish on the spending. In the forum it’s like kid in candy store with all the knowledge but i don’t want to sound that way. Right now I’m using two of the best saws i own so it’s not just a hobby or collecting - i use them and hard but i try to be good to em. Nah i don’t name them or nothing - this is why I’m not playing chainsaw mechanic today

 

[Conquistador3]

Before thinking about tuning and whatnot try finding out what's wrong with the saw that causes it to be down on power. No point thinking about a new cylinder if yours is still fine. No point changing a piston unless it's scored.
There's a lot of 372XP knowledge on this forum so don't be afraid to ask. It's not some obscure model with a hard to pin down issue.

If the saw is anything over ten years old you can start by changing all fuel lines, fuel filter and rebuilding the carburetor: a genuine Husky fuel line is $5 or so and unless left idle to rot in fuel it will last a long time. Fuel filter are getting pricey (I bought a batch of Walbro's this week and all I can say is Ho Lee Fook!) but don't be tempted by China junk. The only thing I bought from there that is holding up are carburetors and membrane set: the rest is just not worth the hassle.
Let us know how the rebuild goes.

 

[Lionsfan]

Ht i know the fellas in the know think i got adhd but i don’t. I’m kinda like a fella that loves a fine tuned strong saw without being foolish on the spending. In the forum it’s like kid in candy store with all the knowledge but i don’t want to sound that way. Right now I’m using two of the best saws i own so it’s not just a hobby or collecting - i use them and hard but i try to be good to em. Nah i don’t name them or nothing - this is why I’m not playing chainsaw mechanic today

What's wrong with having ADHD? Probably half the members on this site (including me for certain) have it and they're still decent, productive members of society.

 

[Scott chandler]

Yep - some of the most productive get it done out of the box stuff people i work with are that way. My bride gives me crap sometimes and tells me i for sure I’m eat up with it. Maybe it’s because last chainsaw i went through i did most of it on the kitchen table with newspapers spread out. What she doesn’t know is I’m getting ready to slide another one on the table after church and i will post some pics of inside exhaust port on this 372

 

[Scott chandler]

Fellas after i figure out what parts i am going to need - i want to place an order and have been buying from ereplacement baileys and HL . Now I’m all about supporting sponsors for the site but i made a lot of mistakes and ordered wrong pieces even after looking hard at saw info so i wanted to ask if anyone on the site sells parts that you can just call on phone and tell them year and model and they can get the parts list up for ya - Looking up the part numbers from diagrams is where I screwed up and knowing what China parts i do not want is a big deal but as mentioned before some of the oem parts are out of reason on price. Someone experienced not only that knows saws but knows what the best parts are would be ideal. Does such a person place exist ?

 

[gary courtney]

oem all the way on motor parts

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Fellas after i figure out what parts i am going to need - i want to place an order and have been buying from ereplacement baileys and HL . Now I’m all about supporting sponsors for the site but i made a lot of mistakes and ordered wrong pieces even after looking hard at saw info so i wanted to ask if anyone on the site sells parts that you can just call on phone and tell them year and model and they can get the parts list up for ya - Looking up the part numbers from diagrams is where I screwed up and knowing what China parts i do not want is a big deal but as mentioned before some of the oem parts are out of reason on price. Someone experienced not only that knows saws but knows what the best parts are would be ideal. Does such a person place exist ?

You can split a case without that special tool, but it makes it easy. If p/c is not scored or has light scoring, you can clean it up. If crank bearing is tight up and down, lateral move is normal and needed, golden. skf 6202 c3 bearings are cheap. Hyway gasket kit is fine. Oregon carb kit and filter are fine. AM plastic parts will work. Most bolts can be sourced at a good hardware. Caber rings work well. Never had an issue with HL supply and they now carry many OEM parts.

 

[Scott chandler]

What’s the verdict. I have a little acid and may have to read again on how to do properly but i don’t see any grooves just aluminum

 

[Scott chandler]

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