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Do you mean you still see snow melt? If so you still have something wrong with your underground. The good stuff gives up no heat, you should only see maybe a degree or two loss between boiler & coming into the house. And certainly no melt up top.

Yup. Close foam super insulated what not direct from CB themselves might not be as good as people think it is. But don’t tell anyone, I doubt they will believe you.
 
Walk outside when it's cold out, stand there for 10 minutes with your gloves on. Then take your gloves off for 10 minutes and see what happens. You can even dip them in a pail of cold water too. Pretty simple. I have Logstor lines to one house and homemade lines to my house. My home made lines are in PVC conduit with pex covered with rubber insulation. Both have very little heat loss but also in gravel no water.
These are pics are not mine these are from google.

Dude, those pictures are pathetic. Back when we were running marginal lines, we had 3 or 4 inches of proper bright green grass over our pipes. You could have grazed sheep all winter long on that path. Shame people don’t take more pride in their work.

Take home here is that in spite of the “stunning” heat loss to the ground, with the old or new lines, at 30F we only need to fill the boiler once a day and we ran and still do, mostly white pine. It isnt the ground that’s flagging up the OP. It does not really matter. I think the OP has flown the coop.
 
Regardless of OP being MIA I would ponder the quality of the window install as well as the overall insulation of complete house. Most of us can identify with "SHODDY" work..
Looked at a rental house that had new windows installed by a government low income contractor windows were racked wind was going around the windows via the framing and trim. I saw double windows having one set 2 inches higher than the other even though the house was very square, level and plumb. I have enough work to do and declined the job and left the owner with my advice /opinions.
A saying I heard and repeat "Insulate tight and Ventilate right" I will watch this thread as I have learned a few things and anticipate learning more...
 
We can agree to disagree, but I will say it again, boilers are about 20% efficient. Their terrible. Heat loss in the ground is nothing compared to what is going up the chimney, no matter how you load it. I will call. I have 25+ plus years, two boilers and two line installs for comparison. You have???
 
Boiler bashing may be a little strong here.
The box design is similar to the woodstoves that's been used for 100's of years.

I heated a 2800 sq ft house with indoor wood furnace......4 cords.
Now heating 4600 sq ft with OWB at 7-8 cords, seems reasonable.

Didn't you say your heating an uninsulated house ?

Wouldn't uninsulated lines create more heat loss and create more wood consumption just like an uninsulated house ?

I respect the 25 yrs experience but not the logic.
 
We can agree to disagree, but I will say it again, boilers are about 20% efficient. Their terrible. Heat loss in the ground is nothing compared to what is going up the chimney, no matter how you load it. I will call. I have 25+ plus years, two boilers and two line installs for comparison. You have???

If you want to have a ding a ling measuring contest that's fine. I'm all in. Just cause I haven't run a boiler for 25 years doesn't mean I am any less qualified than you.

Experience doesn't matter when it comes to the facts that heating the ground and any water near the ground will kill efficiency. There is a truth to that. Is that the only problem with this unit? Probably not. I don't think anybody was disagreeing with any point you made besides your incorrect thoughts that lines make zero difference. Your the one coming in here getting butt hurt about people suggesting things.

And my boiler is much more than 20% efficient.
 
What a bunch of nonsense...

@Lea B, if you can measure the water temp leaving the boiler (before it goes underground) and then the temperature of then water line where it comes into your home it would be of great value in helping us help you. Please estimate the distance between the two points you measure.

Also, are you using forced air or hydronic baseboard heating?

The good quality insulate pex lines are over $5 per foot. Honestly, if you aren't losing much heat from the boiler to the house then your best money would be to get some insulation in the house. I would start by looking what is in the ceiling of the upper floor. Blow-in insulation would help you a ton. You're not going to improve the situation without improving the insulation of the house.
 
I was thinking they were more like 3x that - around $15/foot?
Likely. I'm going from memory and the last time I got a quote was 3 years ago. I didnt want to exaggerate that's why I said at least $5/ft.

If you needed 50ft of line at $15/ft thats $750. I think he would probably be farther ahead insulating the house with the $750 than doing the lines but I would want to know the temp drop between house and boiler before making that decision...
 
Not all products are created equal. IMO the Thrmo-pex is some of the best thats available. It is also the most expensive...

I like it as well. I think I paid $8.65 a foot for mine. But I am in the midwest and I know you guys out east typically pay more for stuff.
 
Ya, I found a roll of 100' for around $1500 with a quick Google search, on some CB related website. That was 1-1/4". Which unless I had a fairly short run, is what I would likely use.

Too bad the OP hasn't shown back up, would be good to help figure the issues.
 
Ya, I found a roll of 100' for around $1500 with a quick Google search, on some CB related website. That was 1-1/4". Which unless I had a fairly short run, is what I would likely use.

Too bad the OP hasn't shown back up, would be good to help figure the issues.

He might be a frozen wax figure by now.
 
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