McCulloch Chain Saws

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61618 and 65746 cross to National 471551., SKF 5756, single lip.

Still curious about that 65746, Tim. Haven't run across it yet. I did discover the 67906 was used quite a bit more than I thought it was in the 10 series saws after rummaging thru IPL's today. Seems to be exclusive to the 67905 bearing whereas the 61618 goes with the 63429B bearing. Does one or the other combination maybe have the seal located in the bearing itself? Seem to recal reading that somewhere along the line.

And for a 67906 / 110260 combo I ran across these this evening. Decent price if the quality is there. https://sawzillaparts.com/proline-o...h-10-10-555-605-610-650-655-690-110260-67906/ They don't seem to offer the 61618 / 110260 combination.
 
I use a Permatex synthetic grease on the shaft and dry graphite powder on the spring. Oil can get gummy on the spring. If you've bee cutting a lot in the rain you might check to see if your spring is getting rusty.

If that's the case, you'll have to pull the spring and clean it up.
 
Still curious about that 65746, Tim. Haven't run across it yet. I did discover the 67906 was used quite a bit more than I thought it was in the 10 series saws after rummaging thru IPL's today. Seems to be exclusive to the 67905 bearing whereas the 61618 goes with the 63429B bearing. Does one or the other combination maybe have the seal located in the bearing itself? Seem to recal reading that somewhere along the line.

And for a 67906 / 110260 combo I ran across these this evening. Decent price if the quality is there. https://sawzillaparts.com/proline-o...h-10-10-555-605-610-650-655-690-110260-67906/ They don't seem to offer the 61618 / 110260 combination.

I don't have any saws with the oddball seals used on the 10-10S. I recall Mark saying something about the seal going into the bearing as well. I'm assuming the was the one but I'm not sure.

Mind you, I don't have that many MAC's. I grab one if I see something I like at a decent price. Over the last two years I think the only two I picked up were the PM60 and the CP125. I've seen a couple of over priced well used 10-10's and a PM700 the guy wanted $300 for.

I got the PM60 running really well and decided to run it against one of my Homelite XL-76 saws. Both run really well but the win went red.
(I probably shouldn't say that here.)
 
NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Cool damp day in North East Tennessee, but better than the forecast. A light rain held off until lunch. Though the ground was just as wet or wetter than last week, we were asked to haul since the lot is getting low on logs. Brian and Lee piloted the mighty F150 hooked to our largest dump trailer and I ran the Deere. Couple loads required a pull or push by the Deere to get up the hill. Between loads, I used my 800 to fall a small ash snag and cut it to fit the trailer. After lunch, I used the 700 to buck and limb some overlooked ash stems.

Likely due to my poor maintenance practices, the recoil on the 800 wouldn't engage and the rope wouldn't rewind. Took a lot of jiggling to get it to partially rewind and engage for each pull. Thankfully, it is an easy and reliable starting saw. The 700 has a much thinner cord and thus a much longer one. Its recoil would engage but it wouldn't rewind the last 15" or so (I don't know how long the cord is but it had almost as much left hanging out as the 800 has). With the short strokes it took quite a few pulls to get the 700 going. I guess I will have to tear into them and clean things up a bit. Which leads to the question of the week - what lubricant do you use on your MAC recoil?

No pictures today. I looked through the archives but found nothing that I thought would interest you.

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses

Food grade or heavy duty silicone spray, it drys and repels water, doesn't hurt the starter rope or the ignition. I worry most about messing up the coil or points with something else.
 
I don't have any saws with the oddball seals used on the 10-10S. I recall Mark saying something about the seal going into the bearing as well. I'm assuming the was the one but I'm not sure.

Mind you, I don't have that many MAC's. I grab one if I see something I like at a decent price. Over the last two years I think the only two I picked up were the PM60 and the CP125. I've seen a couple of over priced well used 10-10's and a PM700 the guy wanted $300 for.

I got the PM60 running really well and decided to run it against one of my Homelite XL-76 saws. Both run really well but the win went red.
(I probably shouldn't say that here.)

I saw your video of the xl76 , thats a good running saw!
What carburetor came on your PM 60?
 
I saw your video of the xl76 , thats a good running saw!
What carburetor came on your PM 60?

Yes those saws cut fast. All the manufacturers have a saw or a few that they got just right. That's one of Homelite's stars as far as I'm concerned.
The 60 has a fixed high jet SDC-49.

It runs very well. I'm pleased with it. Nice light saw. The power head comes in at 12.8 lbs Pretty light for all mag 62cc saw.
 
Working on the 7-10 this morning and had to make an impromptu ring compressor lol. Got the rings in the proper orientation, wrapped the aluminum around then some tape and bam! Slid right in :)
82292280-7368-43F6-80DE-8FEFF5CA66CC.jpeg

the cylinder and rotating assembly for my other 7-10 showed up friday and I wasn’t too happy. fin around the decomp valve was broke and the piston crown all dinged up. Contacted the seller and they are shipping a complete starter assembly and clutch assembly to make things right. Good news is the cylinder bore is in impeccable condition. Very happy with that.

80637D5C-7E1C-47AA-A828-3688D39AE2CC.jpeg C135D3DE-D74D-44D6-8565-3CFDF7CF3E6D.jpeg
so today will involve getting the 7-10 together and the bench cleaned off for the running/oiling/cutting Poulan 5200 I’m picking up tomorrow. :)
 
A perfect opportunity to get some good pics of the 7-10 transfers (and a couple more of those piston windows) for comparison to mogulmasher's PM700 contribution to the cause.
if you can describe the pictures you want I can do that. I’d imagine some of it involves piston location in the ports. Also I have just about every measuring tool imaginable available to me if you want the transfers measured etc.
 
I cant answer the fuel filter thing...thats new for me. Id make double sure the carb was together in the correct order. That is odd.
Still starts hard but it is about 50% better. I know the cylinder has been worked on and its likely the result of that. The qport doesnt take well to porting. It cuts strong. Just a little flaky on the start. Far more reliable than it was. Thanks for your help.
 
Working on the 7-10 this morning and had to make an impromptu ring compressor lol. Got the rings in the proper orientation, wrapped the aluminum around then some tape and bam! Slid right in :)
View attachment 794545

the cylinder and rotating assembly for my other 7-10 showed up friday and I wasn’t too happy. fin around the decomp valve was broke and the piston crown all dinged up. Contacted the seller and they are shipping a complete starter assembly and clutch assembly to make things right. Good news is the cylinder bore is in impeccable condition. Very happy with that.

View attachment 794547 View attachment 794546
so today will involve getting the 7-10 together and the bench cleaned off for the running/oiling/cutting Poulan 5200 I’m picking up tomorrow. :)

I guess shipping could be blamed for a broken fin but how in the hell does that piston pass as anything other than dinged up? Sadly I think this might be the bulk of "online shopping " unless it's craigslist. Even craigslist is a crap shoot but you can always walk away cash in hand , I did this last month with a saw ,it had wood screws holding it together and was mislabeled, I kept my $$ and they kept their saw.
 
if you can describe the pictures you want I can do that. I’d imagine some of it involves piston location in the ports. Also I have just about every measuring tool imaginable available to me if you want the transfers measured etc.

Nothing extravegant, just something to compare with mogul's pics a few pages back. Piston pics would only need to be stand alone side views of the window and skirt.

What is hoped for is to find something specific to each cylinder and cylinder / piston combination between the 7-10 and PM700 that may be able to explain the perceived differences in performance between the two saws.

Perhaps even more importantly would be to maybe explain a rather unusual performance aberration in a 7-10 belonging to 2broke2ride which had the attention of most of us some time ago and has yet to be resolved. The only stone unturned there was the top end components being swapped out and/or a determination that there was a mismatch between the piston and the cylinder even though the prevailing opinion is that either type of piston commonly available should work fine in either a 7-10 or PM700 cylinder.

Then there is also the possibility that the cylinder in question could have had some previous transfer work done that didn't exactly yield the desired results..., hence all the subsequent head scratching and frustration trying to solve what may indeed be an unsolvable problem without actually replacing the cylinder itself. There hasn't really been a convenient opportunity to compare cylinder porting differences between the two designs until now with yourself and mogul just happening to be working on one of each saw.
 
Hey want to switch gears from 10 series real quick. I've got a 250 with an auto oiler in tank. How rare is that? I understand there was an early 250 super that was 80cc with yellow filter cover. I don't think this saw is one but how do I tell if it is?20200106_234043.jpg 20200106_234032.jpg
 
I guess shipping could be blamed for a broken fin but how in the hell does that piston pass as anything other than dinged up? Sadly I think this might be the bulk of "online shopping " unless it's craigslist. Even craigslist is a crap shoot but you can always walk away cash in hand , I did this last month with a saw ,it had wood screws holding it together and was mislabeled, I kept my $$ and they kept their saw.
Nope, shipping couldn’t break the fin if it was boxed right. I’ve received parts that were just dropped in the box with zero packing and was stunned nothing was broken. I sent a Homelite to Australia. Put the power head in a contractors black bag. Put 2X4’s on the bottom and sprayed foamed the top of the box. Turned it over, took the 2X4’s out and sprayed foamed the rest. I could stand on it, sit on it, and drop it off the back of my F150. After 30 years at UPS, the one thing I learned to stress to people. The back of a trailer is ten feet high. The shipping weight limit is 70 pounds in the load. Always assume that your box will be on the bottom of ten feet of 50-60-70 pound boxes. If you can’t stand on it, don’t ship it.
 
I guess shipping could be blamed for a broken fin but how in the hell does that piston pass as anything other than dinged up? Sadly I think this might be the bulk of "online shopping " unless it's craigslist. Even craigslist is a crap shoot but you can always walk away cash in hand , I did this last month with a saw ,it had wood screws holding it together and was mislabeled, I kept my $$ and they kept their saw.
They didn’t box the items. Just thin bubble wrap bags. The piston/crank were in a bag with some cardboard around the bearings then thrown in a bigger bag with the cylinder. I knew it would be bad as soon as I opened the mailbox.

edit: the communication from the seller was excellent, and I’m sure they learned from the experience. A mom and pop eBay shop that sells mostly vintage hand tools.
 
Nothing extravegant, just something to compare with mogul's pics a few pages back. Piston pics would only need to be stand alone side views of the window and skirt.

What is hoped for is to find something specific to each cylinder and cylinder / piston combination between the 7-10 and PM700 that may be able to explain the perceived differences in performance between the two saw.

10-4 I have a 700 on hand I will be going thru also. So I’ll do my best to get info
 
Finally got the garage sorted out, 6 new shelves up, and the wife can get her car back in. I haven't had much time to play with the saws yet. I still haven't been able to get the plug cover on the 200 to pivot. The guy that sold me the 200 took the bar and chain off and put it all in a box so my wife could put it in her car. I looked at the bar and thought, dang, that's a little bar for an 80CC saw. Put the tape on it and it's 20". Then I put the bar back on and only 16" of bar are usable. Sure feels strange to have a bar that small on a saw that big.
 
Hey want to switch gears from 10 series real quick. I've got a 250 with an auto oiler in tank. How rare is that? I understand there was an early 250 super that was 80cc with yellow filter cover. I don't think this saw is one but how do I tell if it is?View attachment 794639 View attachment 794640

The 80cc "yellow top" Super 250 never had an oil pump as far as I know. The one I had was a MAC Canada model. Manual oiler only.

Your 250 is likely one of the versions that did come with a pump.

I'm attaching a multi saw IPL that shows the late 250's with an oil pump.

Look at panel A13 and you can see parts 22 & 23 for the pulse pump. Go to the next panel A14.

Look at the saw models at the top identified as A, B, C etc. The two later 250's are F & G which used those auto oiler parts.
The only saw in the group that had an auto oiler were the late 250 and 300 models.

There was a 380A that I am told was only sold in Europe.
 

Attachments

  • 200 250 300 380 SUPER 250 IPL (1).PDF
    2.9 MB · Views: 4
Finally got the garage sorted out, 6 new shelves up, and the wife can get her car back in. I haven't had much time to play with the saws yet. I still haven't been able to get the plug cover on the 200 to pivot. The guy that sold me the 200 took the bar and chain off and put it all in a box so my wife could put it in her car. I looked at the bar and thought, dang, that's a little bar for an 80CC saw. Put the tape on it and it's 20". Then I put the bar back on and only 16" of bar are usable. Sure feels strange to have a bar that small on a saw that big.

Tell me about it! So little time for saw work with real work going on. I'm just getting little hurtles jumped till summer time . Too many projects waiting on me, 68' Plymouth fury front brakes swap, upgrade to a 360 in the D100 w/ 4speed , 1-60 gear drive McCulloch... the list goes on.
 
Tell me about it! So little time for saw work with real work going on. I'm just getting little hurtles jumped till summer time . Too many projects waiting on me, 68' Plymouth fury front brakes swap, upgrade to a 360 in the D100 w/ 4speed , 1-60 gear drive McCulloch... the list goes on.
I sold my 66 Fury III convertible a few years ago, kind of miss it. When I went to look at if the lady told me it was a 65. I got there and my heart hit the floor. 65 was the last year for the B body Fury's, and 66 was the first year for the big C body Fury's.
3nX68CV.jpg
 
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