McCulloch Chain Saws

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I ended up with it after all. I counter offered a whopping $5 over my initial offer and they accepted it. Let's just say I got it for less than half of their asking price. I feel like I did ok.
Some guys were complaining about them as sellers. The guys that actually did business with them seemed pleased. The ones moaning said they would't answer questions about the saws. Right in their add they say they know little about saws. Looks like they bought out some old shops or collections. I wouldn't hesitate to deal with them.
 
Silicone? Really? I was thinking something a bit more exotic than that lol. You think that will hold up in the long run?
 
Have another seal question I removed the small seal no problems but when removing the larger
seal can I just pop if off or do I need to pull the bearing first. Another question I decided to go the
aftermarket electronic route and not even put the points system back in just assuming I can leave them off.
The saw is completely dissasembled
Thanks
Here's a pic of my Homelite C5 that I just put a Nova II module in. I took the points out, and then took the plastic block that slides into the point box off of the points, slid it back in the box. That left a neat and easy place to hook up the wires. I mounted the chip out from under the flywheel since the instructions said to get it as far as possible from the coil and in cooler air.
Csn5NfC.jpg
 
I just put an offer on this. I'm thinking it is a 6-10. I spy the decomp operated by the on off switch. We shall see. Seller has a ton of Macs listed apparently from an estate sale. Doesnt seem like they know much about saws.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401988740896
I went through their whole store, 73 pages. Some pages had 10 saws on them, some only 3-4. Still figured they had at least 500 saws.
 
He is still looking for a G-70 as well. There is a nice Super LG-6 on the shelves already and a 2-10G together with my work and GTG saws.

This week I have been working on some of the 33/35/39 saws.

This is a Frankensaw made from a 35 and a 35A with an added circle bow bar and some other owner modifications to account for the broken lower handle mounts.

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I have a 39 all apart and cleaned up tonight, hopefully I will get it put back together tomorrow.

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Mark
 
He is still looking for a G-70 as well. There is a nice Super LG-6 on the shelves already and a 2-10G together with my work and GTG saws.

This week I have been working on some of the 33/35/39 saws.

This is a Frankensaw made from a 35 and a 35A with an added circle bow bar and some other owner modifications to account for the broken lower handle mounts.

View attachment 795626

View attachment 795627

I have a 39 all apart and cleaned up tonight, hopefully I will get it put back together tomorrow.

View attachment 795628

View attachment 795629

Mark

My apologies Mark , I thought you had one . They must've been less popular than I thought.
That bow is pretty wicked looking already canted up on the saw.
Glad your on the mend and doing more saws.
 
Silicone? Really? I was thinking something a bit more exotic than that lol. You think that will hold up in the long run?

I need to do this to some tags as well. I plan on using a two part epoxy. It will have the strength and be fuel resistant. I've used marine grade epoxy to glue a metering plate to a carb diaphragm. Make sure you have the surface scuffed up some.
 
Silicone? Really? I was thinking something a bit more exotic than that lol. You think that will hold up in the long run?

Sure. Use something decent and you'll curse the day you did if you ever hafta to take the badge back off! I ran across this stuff awhile back. Was recommended for attaching two metal brackets to a quartz counter top cutout for supporting a cooktop. Great adhesion and sealing capabilities and used for aircraft weatherstripping. It's incredibly strong. Cheaper stuff would probably work just as good for your application. A nice thin layer and some even pressure during the cure time and you'll be good to go. A clean surface prior to application is a must. This stuff has a fast cure time, too.

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Here’s the pictures of the 7-10
Intake port with piston at TDC
Exhaust port with piston at BDC
The other two pics I used a sharpie to mark the port location on the piston. Intake port at BDC then Exhaust port at TDC. Hope this helps for future reference. 8901C446-0ACB-4C7F-B925-EF3DC2D62D1D.jpeg 4D65D2CC-464A-4F43-BF11-7740A0EAA239.jpeg A6F40269-0AD0-49DC-9781-590CAF2C64C9.jpeg 68A39B89-0649-4DA7-B6D2-EE9A8C07B904.jpeg
 
Just purchased a 1-50. Turns over quickly and runs strong. Problem is that its leaking fuel at the oiler, where that small hole is on the left side. Anything go there like a duck bill or what? I will have to drill out the fuel vent since it is seized and will not thread out. Any input would help, was just about to open her up either way and figure it out but seems like this may be a common issue. Checked the parts diagram and seems like there is nothing that goes in that hole? I'm thinking since that vent needs to be replaced, the tank isn't breathing and making the fuel dump out. Let me know guys, thanks.
 

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