Did you do a cyl base gasket delete?
MS201t Problem
- Thread starter Ddogwood
- Start date
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Take the bar and chain off then the clutch assembly and see if that frees it up.
Don’t mean to sound hardazz, but 3 different requests for a compression reading from 3 different posters trying to help you went unanswered.
So I suggest to take it by a small engine shop, or a saw shop that has a tester to get a comp reading, instead of continuing to fire the parts cannon all over it.
Also sounds like you never checked the squish, ring ends gaps, etc. from installing your new top end aftermarket parts during the rebuild either.
If you’re on the back side of 50, or not in good physical shape, then compression over 150 psi coupled with the small starter rotor & small rope diameters could be a challenge for you...good luck with starting that saw!
So I suggest to take it by a small engine shop, or a saw shop that has a tester to get a comp reading, instead of continuing to fire the parts cannon all over it.
Also sounds like you never checked the squish, ring ends gaps, etc. from installing your new top end aftermarket parts during the rebuild either.
If you’re on the back side of 50, or not in good physical shape, then compression over 150 psi coupled with the small starter rotor & small rope diameters could be a challenge for you...good luck with starting that saw!
I'm waiting to hear on the base gasket? If its deleted we have the answer .
mkinslow
ArboristSite Guru
I just saw this post from him myself
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Clutch is dragging provided all other data is accurate! This is hard to do on the net! I can never be 100 percent positive on the accuracy of what I read. People can miss stuff.I just saw this post from him myself
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mkinslow
ArboristSite Guru
Right? Nothing else if what he said he did to it right.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am just going to toss this out on the table. I know this isn't the answer but it is possible . Anything can happen right.
I had a 200T that developed a seal leak between the crank case halves . Before the seal problem I replaced the cylinder and piston for some reason that I can't remember . I let the dealer split the case to seal the leak . I was not happy at all when that saw came back . It was very hard to pull over like the compression jumped 20 lbs.
I took the saw back and all they told me was it had to break in that new top end . It didn't have that problem till the shop got their hands on it .
I don't think they got the crank centered when they put the saw back together. Which sounds like the same problem the OP is having. The saw did loosen up a little but to this day it still what I would call hard starting compared to the other 200's I have.
I had a 200T that developed a seal leak between the crank case halves . Before the seal problem I replaced the cylinder and piston for some reason that I can't remember . I let the dealer split the case to seal the leak . I was not happy at all when that saw came back . It was very hard to pull over like the compression jumped 20 lbs.
I took the saw back and all they told me was it had to break in that new top end . It didn't have that problem till the shop got their hands on it .
I don't think they got the crank centered when they put the saw back together. Which sounds like the same problem the OP is having. The saw did loosen up a little but to this day it still what I would call hard starting compared to the other 200's I have.
One or both of the crank bearing were not seated all the way? Tap the crank to the left and right with a brass hammer and don't destroy the threads. Hard starting? Can you notice a drag or just wont fire on 3- 5 pulls every time cold?
If you have another 200T take the plugs out of both roll them over by hand and see if the one in question is dragging. Was the bearings out because those are roller bearings and are self seating on the crank not a press fit. But installed in the cases not deep enough they could pinch the crank.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have no idea what happened to the saw while it was in the shop . All I know is the shop didn't have the tools to be splitting cases from the way they described how they did it . Splitting cases is a one person job with the right tools . It took two people to split that case and put it back together.
I did that hammer thing to the crank . Didn't seem to help and decided it was best to leave it alone so I wouldn't create another problem by trying to fix my first problem . The saw starts good it just has a jerky bumpy type start to it when it is cold and even after it warmed up. It is just more annoying to start than my other 200's . Just need to use more arm strength to get this one going . It is what it is that's all. The saw runs good and does it's job so I just let it go because if it isn't broke don't fix it.
I did that hammer thing to the crank . Didn't seem to help and decided it was best to leave it alone so I wouldn't create another problem by trying to fix my first problem . The saw starts good it just has a jerky bumpy type start to it when it is cold and even after it warmed up. It is just more annoying to start than my other 200's . Just need to use more arm strength to get this one going . It is what it is that's all. The saw runs good and does it's job so I just let it go because if it isn't broke don't fix it.
Who knows, they might have did something wrong in there.
Axe man make my day and elaborate on how they described splitting the cases
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
All I know Wolf is that one guy held the crankcase while the other guy hit the crank with a hammer of some sort and the two guys tried to pull the cases apart while hitting the crank . That is all I know and I guess they did the same in reverse to get it back together. That just didn't sound too kosher to me . These guys are Stihl dealers. I know splitting crank cases isn't an every day sort of job at a commercial shop but you would think they would have some sort of tools around for a job like this when it does pop up for a customer.
I never split a 200 but I have split 020's to scrounge some bearings. All I ever had to do that was a piece of angle iron bolted to the bar studs with a hole over the crank and used a two jaw puller to get the cases at least started to separate a little and gently coax the two halves apart . Crude method but it does work if you don't have a fancy case splitting tool. It doesn't take much to split a small saw but they seemed to make the job harder than it really was.
Did I make your day ???
I never split a 200 but I have split 020's to scrounge some bearings. All I ever had to do that was a piece of angle iron bolted to the bar studs with a hole over the crank and used a two jaw puller to get the cases at least started to separate a little and gently coax the two halves apart . Crude method but it does work if you don't have a fancy case splitting tool. It doesn't take much to split a small saw but they seemed to make the job harder than it really was.
Did I make your day ???
Yes, even worse than I expected! The stupid Bass turd must have had the one hidden bolt in if he had to do that! And beating on it so hard you need two guys! They wrecked something if it felt different to you. Those cases literally fall apart with one or two light taps the crank bearings are not interference fit they are needle rollers. Don't ever go back ! PM me if you need help.
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Don't mean to sound hardazz, but I did answer the requests, by stating that I didn't have the proper equipment to do the test. I do, however, have a standard compression test tool that shows that the compression is not out of bounds. And, I am a contractor in good physical shape. Thanks for your concern though.
Did you try taking the bar ,chain and clutch off yet?
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Again, no, I did not delete the gasket.
OK .
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Have done that with no change in pull.
Is there anything, that could cause this problem, with the intake manifold, or carburetor?
