Axe restoration thread

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Does it come loose if swung? Sometimes they will move down a bit but not all the way off.

The easy way is to leave it, the right way would be to tap it out and refit it.

I've done both. :)
 
I got my Jersey hung, and filed a bit, sharp enough to do some chopping but not quite all the dings out of the edge. I shaped an end of the wood wedge, cut it off and drove it in the gap at the front and then drove the rest of the wedge in the kerf. Looks good and tight. I haven't put in the metal wedge yet, don't know if I will. I'll get a few pictures up some time.

I don't see any markings on the head; no idea who made it or where.

Bench grinder and belt sander could be used if you had them set up, but a rasp can be used anywhere and the coarse side takes wood off quickly.
 
That ash had imperfections and a split at the bottom,I expected to destroy it before it ever saw the woods. It had a good run. Not much on the eyes but that thing had a feel to it.
 
Anyone know about Pulaski axes? I have this one and the wedge seems to be made of plastic or something. I’ve never seen them that way before. View attachment 795616View attachment 795617View attachment 795618

I have a Council Tool FSS Pulaski, came with the stupid plastic wedge. If you actually plan on using it, I'd replace it with a wooden wedge with a metal safety or stepped cross-wedge. The plastic is slippery and starts to pop out making the head come loose. Really annoying, especially when you're grubbing with it. Not really sure why CT uses plastic wedges, especially for the Forest Service... Heck, even an aluminum would be better, and they use aluminum wedges on other axe models, notable the boys axe.
 
I splintered my axe handle on Saturday pounding falling wedges in an ash. I bought the best grained hickory handle at the COOP today. Grain not perfectly up and down but at least mostly up and down. Most of their handles had the grain running perfectly horizontal. Anyway my question is about the fit. As you can see in the picture the handle does not fill the eye top to bottom. Should I hang it? Or go looking somewhere else for a bigger handle? Axe is a 5# Plumb in a rafting pattern. I use it mainly for pounding falling wedges.

IMG_5005.JPG

Ron
 
View attachment 797205 Great thread here with a lot of history!
Anyway I saw this maul yesterday and couldn’t resist buying it.
It has that Viking berserker look to it.
Made in Sweden by Hultafors.
Does anyone own one and what do you think of it?
Looks a lot like my Husqvarna branded splitter, hav'nt used it yet.
 
Ron, I wish I had taken a picture. What I did was make an "extended" wedge out of Walnut. Looking down on it, like your picture, it was kind of arrow head shaped. it filled the gap in the front, then was a normal wedge in the kerf. It worked well and never came out, I may have put a little epoxy on it too, can't remember.

Looking at your picture, where the handle starts to taper into a point, and is not touching the steel, I filed that flat to give the "Arrow Head" part of my wedge something to hold onto, if that makes sense.
 
View attachment 797205 Great thread here with a lot of history!
Anyway I saw this maul yesterday and couldn’t resist buying it.
It has that Viking berserker look to it.
Made in Sweden by Hultafors.
Does anyone own one and what do you think of it?
Post up in the "Splitting Tool Review Thread". I believe most of the people who own that style like them.
 
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