Old School Stihl 036 Issue!

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jdbird1983

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So I've been slowly rebuilding an older Stihl 036. I'm pretty sure its one of the originals because the carb (Tillotson HK43A) does not have the little rectangle opening towards the bottom...Anyways, I finally get everything cleaned up, re-assembled, and when trying to start the saw it fires and runs but it sounds like it running so incredibly rich that the rpm's won't top out and the saw is just not running like it should. I've read that some of the Tillotson HK43A's run into this issue when they get too worn...What I'm trying to figure out if there is substitute carb I can use on the 036 that DOES NOT have the little rectangle opening on the bottom? Follow UP Question...What is that little rectangle opening on the carbs for the newer 036 or MS360?
 
"What is that little rectangle opening on the carbs for the newer 036 or MS360?"
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There is a special air filter required to accept that opening. If your air filter does not have that opening, the engine will bog down during the cut if you use the old style air filter with the new style carb that has the small rectangle opening. The engine may also not idle properly.
 
The newer compensator carbs/air filters will not fit on my 036. Yes I installed new gaskets and diaphrams along with new meter lever and needle but saw is definitely not as it should. I saw a replacement carb on ebay that is similair to mine but mine has a plastic piece that goes in between the carb and the ported metal cover on the metering end. Not sure how to approach this.
 
I was considering getting a carb with a compensator opening and switching the cover out with the tillotson cover.
 
I've installed a new kit on the tillotson just like every other carb I've worked on and it's not running as it should.
 
found this on another post
BLUF: I need to replace or rebuild carb (I think), it's an early carb and I may be better off replacing.

Saw: 034 marked West Germany, TIllotson (Made in USA) HK-43A carb. According to what I found on another forum this means it was one of the first 3 years production for the 034 saw.

Dilemna: This carb has a seperate plastic metering plate that the needle seats into. Supposedly this plate can cause issues over time. Rebuild kits aren't impossible to find, but it took me a while to find that Tillotson RK-33HK is the PN for the kit. Would I be better off to just replace the whole carb with the Zama carbs that came on later 034 models?

Backstory: I inherited this saw from my dad, he bought it in the 80's from an older gentleman that had grown tired of dealing with it's cold-blooded nature. I believe that gentleman was the original owner and rarely used it; my dad rarely used it as well. Anytime the saw has sat for a day or more, it's very temperamental getting started. Dad got tired of it and bought a new Dolmar and gave the 034 to me as a spare. It has sat on the shelf for 3+ years; I didn't plan to run it because it's somewhat sentimental to me.

Fast-forward to a terrible day last week when I discovered a crack in the mag case (not directly in the crankcase thankfully) on my Dolmar and had to dig out the 034 to cut up a big downed tree. The only way I could get it to start and run was to pour gas through the air-filter, it would run for a bit on choke (it was getting some fuel through the carb when choked) but I would eventually "lose it" and it was slowly ramp down and sputter out. A little splash of gas on the filter and it would fire right up if choked. Take the choke off even slightly and it would die. So it's starving for fuel. Needless to say, I cut that tree up with my MS170 and rolled it out of the way for a day when one of my big saws is running.

Things I've checked: intake boot, fuel line, & impulse line all seem good. The impulse line is a little stiffer than the others but they are all still flexible with no cracking or brittleness. Slightly pressurizing them didn't revealed any leaks or pinholes. Fuel filter in the tank is good and flows fuel well. I tore the carb apart and there is no obvious tearing/wear/etc on the diaphragm, reed-valves etc. Gaskets all seemed good. There was some dirt/oil in the
 
How so? Complete OEM rebuild kits are available from Tillotson.

Define a kit. Due to the HK using a plastic module with an integral needle seat , its the module that has to be replaced, that does not come in a rebuild kit. The costs involved make it not worth fixing them, much easier and cheaper to just replace them and get away frm the problematic module carb.
 
You can't plug the compensator fully.
The diaphragm needs to see atmospheric pressure on one side.
Agreed, the link shows a guy that covers compensator outlet with tape, then fills recess with JB Weld, after hardened he cuts a portion of the outlet off, then drills a hole for the carb to see that good ol' atmospheric pressure! Either that approach, or I'm sure if I dig around I'll be able to find another scrap carb lying around that does not have the compensator, and then just swap out the covers and drill hole if required. I would like some more info on the cut made to remove the compensator...not real sure what is removed...but I know it will have to be done. When I began this refurb I actually ordered a carb that had the compensator and quickly found out it will not mount on the 2 bolts that hold the carb and air filter...I know the comp was obstructing it somehow, just don't remember to what extent.
 

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