I just went and checked and the grinder is a Nielsen model 50. I'm going to do a search and see what I can find out about it.
Ripping chain sharpening
- Thread starter Pcbw69
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Sharpening with a grinder requires a bit of knowledge, skill, and experience (KSE), which is why I encourage people to practice on 'scrap' chain first; intentionally make 'mistakes' (like 'bluing' cutters); then working backwards to find out how far they can go without doing that. Experiment. 'Play'. Take a 'good' chain that you really like, and try to 'copy' those grinder settings (with the motor off): the scales on a grinder might not match up to the angles that you think that you want.
As far as 'small taps' it could be either of what you describe, but I usually do the first for normal sharpening. If a cutter is heavily 'rocked' (damaged), a lot of people will grind the cutter back incrementally, as in your second description. Whatever works for you. Just do not try to hog off a large amount, like with a chop saw.
If you have ever learned Morse code, I describe it as all 'dots' and no 'dashes'. A series of light, gentle taps, until you have reached your intended depth of cut. Experimenting will let you know how long a tap can be, with a specific chain. Smaller chains (1/4", 'Picco', etc.) will heat up faster due to smaller mass.
Dressing the wheel frequently is so important, in my experience, so that you constantly have fresh, sharp abrasive cutting/scraping/abrading the steel, instead of dull abrasive rubbing against it, causing friction.
More, collected tips in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
I have never used that particular grinder, but several A.S. threads reference it, and several Internet ads pop up when Googling it. Some photos have been lost, but you might be able to contact individual members (or start a new thread on it!).
Philbert
When I did a search, of course, the first thing that came up were old AS threads. I like hand filing. I usually hang dull chains on nails for each saw, and with 50 saws, and trying to keep at least 10 running, that's a lot of nails and chains. It would be nice to take a rainy day and knock out a bunch of them.
I started a separate thread on this grinder.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bell-nielson-k50-chain-grinder.340222/
Philbert
JOEY JENKINS
ArboristSite Lurker
I have milled all kinds of wood from white pine and spruce to red oak, white oak, English and black walnut, maple, hickory and pecan. I have milled with full comp chains and ripping chains. The type chain I used and the sharpening profiles varied. At first because of experiment, then I used my experience to select what worked best for me. On the soft woods like spruce and pine I the ripping chains I used had the rakers filed down to .050" on a 32" or 36" bar with a 066 or 661 powerhead and they worked great. Cleaner teeth were sharpened at 0° across the top plate and slicer teeth at 20° left and right. Almost always with a file. The harder wood I didn't take the rakers down so deep, only .035" or less because they were too aggressive and I spent the whole time holding the saw back to keep it from stalling the chain. The really hard wood like the pecan I didn't see any gain at all with a ripping chain and therefore used a full comp or skip tooth at normal angles. The only thing I usually did different on all my chains is when it's less than half worn out I use a larger size file. On a ⅜ chain I sharpen it with a 7/32" file until half of the top plate is gone then I use a 3/16" file on the last half of the tooth. The hook angle can make a big difference but what works best depends on hardness of the wood, width of the cut, chain length and powerhead size. Milling with a chainsaw isn't easy on the saw or the Sawyer. If what you are doing isn't working well, make drastic changes. If it's going ok but you think there is room for improvement, try subtle changes and keep track of the changes made and the results.
I milled this pecan using a 661, 36" bar and full comp chisel chain. 28" width 10' long and took roughly 3 minutes per cut, stopping at least twice to insert wedges.
I milled this pecan using a 661, 36" bar and full comp chisel chain. 28" width 10' long and took roughly 3 minutes per cut, stopping at least twice to insert wedges.
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Interesting
Since you’ve used both on some truly hard hardwoods... what would you say the advantage if any milling chain provides and at what trade-off.
I’ve read plenty about milling chain. Many try it and move on back ....curious your experience.
Thx!
JOEY JENKINS
ArboristSite Lurker
You have to weigh it out. Is it worth the time and extra effort that filing that much chain for the amount of improvement you will achieve, does the smoother cut or faster cut justify it or are you going to plane it afterwards anyway making the smoothness not matter so much? If I am milling soft woods and don't want to waste as much with a rougher cut and will have faster cut times that are easier on my saw then probably worth it. Time is money and just about the only thing in this world that you can not replace. It takes a long time to file long chains with so many different angles. I'm not a spring chicken anymore and my hands can't handle hours of filing after working all day to sharpen a few chains for tomorrow. For me personally, I don't use ripping chains much anymore, mostly because of how difficult it is for me personally to file them. I can grind several chains in half the time it takes to file one long one. Another factor is that I have other options for milling logs that I can move from where they hit the ground and logs that I don't want or need a live edge on. The time you spend researching what's best could have been spent finding out for yourself, which is ultimately what you are probably going to have to do. Just remember that nothing you read anywhere is going to make milling with a chainsaw fast or easy. The basics is what matters most. Larger powerhead is better than one that's too small, only use as long of a bar as needed to reach thru the logs you are milling and shorter chains are easier to pull and keep oiled. Don't over work yourself or your saw, take breaks and cool both you and your saw and both will last longer. Try different things and see what works best for you. Buy the best oil you can for your fuel and lots of chains. If you are serious about milling with a chainsaw, you are going to need them. If you want to make money doing it keep accurate records and pay very close attention. Watch out for screws, nails, spikes and any other metal in the logs. If you see blue or black streaks in the wood there is most likely metal in the log and usually within arms reach from the ground. A drywall screw can nearly destroy a brand new chain in less than a second. Enjoy yourself and the outdoors while creating something you can be proud of.
Krazo
ArboristSite Lurker
Great thread! Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge. Seriously looking forward to working with my new super jolly grinder. Junk chains first of course 
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