Trees to mill (elevated at two ends)

[goncalo alves]

We have a couple trees that blew over but the first is still suspended at both ends.

















So I tried to grab every angle so you could see the forces being applied. There is a small mound of dirt/rootball from the second tree pressing against the middle of the first tree. The first tree is barely suspended above the earth by it's rootball and is laying on it's own branch and the other oak.

For reference, the rootball is probably 6+ feet in the air and 30-40 foot straight. I want to mill these trees after cutting them into 8-10 foot sections. I'll clear the brush all around them but what's the best way to get them untangled and on the ground?

What's the best method of attack for this?

 

[Brownthumb]

Chainsaw?

 

[rarefish383]

Well, if you look at the picture in my avatar, It's a big blow down White Pine. I cut the tree top off, screwed my ladder to it and milled away. Made a fold up table for my hunting camp out of the slabs.

Here's a White Ash ready to mill.

 

[goncalo alves]

Chainsaw?

3120xp with 42" bar. I have the mill part taken care of, just wanted to make sure I cut this tree down without putting myself at any greater risk than necessary. Not sure which end I should attack first?

 

[Brownthumb]

Up the middle from the bottom

 

[Franny K]

I really only see one tree. The root ball probably will tend to stand up when freed. How about filling in under the elevated portion with cord wood size stuff from de branching. Mark out the log lengths desired. Somewhere in the middle sacrifice 4 inches or so cutting a v from 4 sides leaving a square to be severed last.

 

[rarefish383]

If you want to mill it in the woods, I would put blocks of wood under the log so it can’t drop to the ground. Limb the top out in small pieces. The root ball is 90 percent out of the ground so I wouldn’t worry about it standing up with a piece of log, as much as just flopping down with the last cut. If the weight of dirt on it is off balance, it can also make it roll right or left. As always, chock it so it can’t roll and keep an eye on the ball.

 

[rarefish383]

Pretty much as Franny said. I started typing this yesterday and didn’t hit post till this morning.

 

[BlackCoffin]

I’m with some points already mentioned. Start at the small end and buck some rounds long enough to make a snug fit when placed under the log to support it along the way where you make your cuts. Put a V notch into each round to cradle the tree when you buck it into lengths so it ain’t roll to the sides. Basically used bucked rounds to build saw horses to support the tree. Then starting from the small end buck it into the lengths you want to mill until you come back to the rootball.

 

[goncalo alves]

Thanks everyone, we didn't tackle it Saturday because we were milling a different tree. Hope to get to those trees shortly. I'll post more pics and replies when we get back to those trees.

 

[csmillingnoob]

I am fortunate in having quite a few six to eight ft cedar “poles”” varying from 4 to 8 inches in diameter. I just slide them under a blowdown where I want to buck it into logs. It drops on the poles and I can roll the logs into the position I want for call milling with a can’t hook. Termites won’t travel through the cedar so I can let the logs lay there til I can get around to milling. Sealing the ends of course.

I try to use a big enough pole so that I can later slide a floor jack under the end I decide to elevate for milling. If need be, you can dig out under one end to slide the jack on plywood underneath. Jack to desired height and put a block underneath

 

[rarefish383]

I am fortunate in having quite a few six to eight ft cedar “poles”” varying from 4 to 8 inches in diameter. I just slide them under a blowdown where I want to buck it into logs. It drops on the poles and I can roll the logs into the position I want for call milling with a can’t hook. Termites won’t travel through the cedar so I can let the logs lay there til I can get around to milling. Sealing the ends of course.

I try to use a big enough pole so that I can later slide a floor jack under the end I decide to elevate for milling. If need be, you can dig out under one end to slide the jack on plywood underneath. Jack to desired height and put a block underneath

I like the way you think. Some people just make it harder than it is. I think the first time I pinched a chain I never sat around trying to figure out how to get it free. I just went over to the truck and got the scissor jack out from under the hood, scooped out enough dirt and leaves to get the jack under the log, and jacked it up. Where there is a will, there is a way.

 

[csmillingnoob]

90 bucks for a 3!ton floor jack at harbor freight was some of the best money I have ever spent. I lifted a 15 ft 36” diameter pecan last week. One end that is.