what method do you use to tune your saw?

[vhmtach38]

Hardhat explains it all correctly.

 

[windthrown]

Here is a wild idea that I just pulled out of my azz: try read the farking saw manual on how to tune the saw. They vary. Use a tach for the best results. But default settings will usually get you by without blowing up saws running them too lean. If they can be tuned that is. A lot of carb jets are fixed. Or they are constantly being set on Mtronic or Autotune saws.

Also the best saw tuning method I have found is this one posted at Madsens. Its a combination of ear tuning (4-stroking) and tach settings. This used to be common knowledge on this forum. But then, this forum used to be all professional tree butchers and fallers. Meh...

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

Oh, and one last point. In the case of Stihl at least, the real red line is 500 RPM above the max RPM listed in the service manuals. Yes, the actual engineered max red line is higher. You can read Lakeside Andy's old posts about that buried here on AS. He is (or was) a certified Stihl mechanic. He left AS long ago to spend more time with his wife. Good move...

 

[Freudianfloyd]

It amazes me how easy tuning a carb sounds, yet every time I do it, it feels like I am doing it for the first time. Its much easier if you are starting with a carb that is set close. When you are starting with a carb that has been monkeyed with (somebody just turning screws without any rhyme or reason), it seems I rarely get them right.

 

[lone wolf]

It amazes me how easy tuning a carb sounds, yet every time I do it, it feels like I am doing it for the first time. Its much easier if you are starting with a carb that is set close. When you are starting with a carb that has been monkeyed with (somebody just turning screws without any rhyme or reason), it seems I rarely get them right.

Usually if everything is working right the stock settings on the H and L jet should be really close .You need to pay attention to if it holds idle first if not turn the L jet a 1/16 either way usually richer . When when it holds a good idle tune the H to factory spec RPMs. If you cant do it then something else is wrong that's where you lose your mind. Not hard really .Note high elev requires a bit leaner tune. And also you should have a new or really good known running carb in stock to swap so you know if its a bad carb or problem with the saw this can save so much trouble.

 

[arto_wa]

It amazes me how easy tuning a carb sounds, yet every time I do it, it feels like I am doing it for the first time. Its much easier if you are starting with a carb that is set close. When you are starting with a carb that has been monkeyed with (somebody just turning screws without any rhyme or reason), it seems I rarely get them right.

Here are instructions for MS660, carburetor without limiter caps.
Hardline tach can be bought for under $25 and will be well worth it!

 

[ammoaddict]

Here is a wild idea that I just pulled out of my azz: try read the farking saw manual on how to tune the saw. They vary. Use a tach for the best results. But default settings will usually get you by without blowing up saws running them too lean. If they can be tuned that is. A lot of carb jets are fixed. Or they are constantly being set on Mtronic or Autotune saws.

Also the best saw tuning method I have found is this one posted at Madsens. Its a combination of ear tuning (4-stroking) and tach settings. This used to be common knowledge on this forum. But then, this forum used to be all professional tree butchers and fallers. Meh...

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

Oh, and one last point. In the case of Stihl at least, the real red line is 500 RPM above the max RPM listed in the service manuals. Yes, the actual engineered max red line is higher. You can read Lakeside Andy's old posts about that buried here on AS. He is (or was) a certified Stihl mechanic. He left AS long ago to spend more time with his wife. Good move...

Very good guide. Thanks for posting.

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