Boot chaps?

[pauljoseph]

No substitute for properly fitted boots. It is hard when a lot of stores only carry a 'standard' width, and why buying boots through the mail is very difficult. When I sold boots (hiking, climbing, etc.) we would sometimes find fit differences between 2, 'identical' pairs. We could also stretch and condition leather boots to some extent. But steel and composite toes are less forgiving. I think that they are very important, and you may be finding a width problem if your toes get jammed up against them.

I do have a pair of Husqvarna / Viking rubber boots with chainsaw protection, similar to chaps, embedded in the instep and sides. These fit somewhat loose, like most rubber boots, and are also the least expensive chainsaw protective boots available. Good for cutting in snow and wet conditions on mostly level ground, but not for a lot of climbing over logs, etc.

https://www.staples.com/viking-timb...bber-orange-and-black-size-10/product_1931693View attachment 861693


Several places sell non-chainsaw rated 'trimmer chaps' which be lighter, and may not absorb water like leather would. Just remember, that they are not chainsaw rated!
https://www.forestershop.com/-trimmer-trouser-chaps-leg-protection-safety-green.html
Philbert

I have a pair of those. And bought a size too big, and I wear a boot liner with a pair socks. Its manageable but I am NOT running in those things. I like what you said about how boots fit people differently and it’s very different between people . If I find a pair of shoes that fit comfortably, to me it’s worth way more money than they are usually asking! There are certainly some things worth splurging on.

 

[Huskybill]

I cring when I see guys cut with sneakers or even Sandler. Scary.

I was wearing the Carolina heavy duty work boots and was greedy cutting small diameter tops when the saw kicked back and cut across the toe section of the sole. At the sametime I curled my toes under. Luckily the saw just touched the tip of the sole I got lucky.

Another time I was cutting a large trunk from a hickory tree I dropped. One trunk was up in the air about four feet. I was going quick bucking it up. I dropped one 20” diameter, 18” long on my foot. I busted toes. Luckily there was snow on the ground. I took off my boot and sock and stuck my foot in the snow. After cussing for 30 minutes I put my boot back on and went on bucking. You have to do what you have to do. Suck it up and move on. It hurt like hell. I had blue toes by the time I got home. Just showered and taped them up.

 

[2dogs]

Wesspur and Bailey's and other logging/arborist suppliers sell cut resistant boots. I believe they are all foreign made. Whites Boots while they are made well are owned by the same Japanese firm that owns Danner and Lacrosse.

 

[newforest]

I always think the rubber boots Husqy sells are the same as the Vikings?

I like the ones I have from Husqy but only for winter use. They are quite stiff but support is good and you get used to them quickly in the morning. But then are happy when you take them off. Helps a lot to have a “boot jack” but few know what those are any more. If mine ever breaks into pieces I will be using it to trace a new set of pieces to cut on a table saw and am thinking about making a dozen or more of them to sell. So handy with all knee length boots.

Another key to those Husqy rubber boots is to buy one size up and add the felt liners. Very nice in winter.

I don’t really care for the caulks they offer though. Better than nothing I guess.

Wish I could move up to Whites Or Hoffmans but I just don’t see that happening, for me. Have been thinking about trying the ones offered by Stihl, for a summer boot.

Instead I have been using Red Wing “King Toe” boots. I went to an Amish boot store (awesome inventory, cash only) and asked for a recommendation - the man pointed to his feet which had those King Toe model on them. They look a touch goofy, kind of like what are called “Engineer Boots”, but that big roomy toe area is comfortable. They are not true steel toe but a composite that is accepted wherever steel toe is required. Not 100% best for chainsaw work but $225 vs. $500 Whites or $350 Hofmanns or Stihl. I try to be extra careful with my feet near the saw and am at least content to have crush protection.

 

[Philbert]

Wesspur and Bailey's and other logging/arborist suppliers sell cut resistant boots. I believe they are all foreign made.

Labonville sells their own brand. Not sure where they are made.

I always think the rubber boots Husqy sells are the same as the Vikings?

I have a pair that I bought on sale. Good for walking around in wet or snowy conditions on relatively level land, but I would not want to be climbing over a bunch of stuff in them.

Philbert

 

[softdown]

Where you at? I'm in Del Norte.
I just wear some old corks (calks) from my timber cutting days. I'm fortunate to have never cut my foot, or anything else, but I'm only 70.

been hunting. Just got rescued after 23" fell in 16 hours - mostly overnight. Home never felt so good. Blanca area - had to blast through some drifts on the way home.

Considered trying to rescue others but it too a tractor to get to me. Mean conditions. How is Del Norte?

Just ordered some steel toed Red Wings last Friday.

My 32" bar swung and touched my chaps last week.

 

[hillwilliam]

been hunting. Just got rescued after 23" fell in 16 hours - mostly overnight. Home never felt so good. Blanca area - had to blast through some drifts on the way home.

Considered trying to rescue others but it too a tractor to get to me. Mean conditions. How is Del Norte?

Just ordered some steel toed Red Wings last Friday.

My 32" bar swung and touched my chaps last week.

I just sent you a PM. No snow in town here, but there's a lot upstairs.

Dang, a 32" bar. I rarely use anything bigger than the 30" that lives on my six cube saw most of the time. When I cut timber in the Northwest a long time ago, I'd take off the 36" bar and go down to 30' every chance I got.