STIHL Progressive Depth Gauge Tool

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In general, with most depth gauge gauges: I check, remove the tool and file, then re-check.
If the tool is soft, I do not want to damage it with my file.
If the tool is hard, I do not want to damage my file.

With the 'basic' Oregon/etc. offset tool, I learned to tilt it to protect the cutter edges, when filing the depth gauges. Dual duty.

photo 6.jpg


Philbert
 
Thanks for the report, sir! This is what eventually happens to the stamped out Husky gauges after moderately aggressive use. Granted, they're inexpensive, but there is a point of diminishing returns in accuracy and consistency when one is used on a regular basis. I buy several at a time for the obvious reason illustrated below...., and also obviously get my money's worth out of one. LOL

Your meant to file the depth gauge, not the guide :)
 
Feel like I’ve used the Euro Stihl gauge enough now to offer some opinions.

It’s much harder steel that the husky gauge, but could stand to be a bit harder still.

The hard setting in my timber is about as close to perfect as I can imagine. Very smooth, but aggressive, cutting chain. Self-feeds well. Bore cuts smoothly.

Overall...well worth purchasing.
 
In general, with most depth gauge gauges: I check, remove the tool and file, then re-check.
If the tool is soft, I do not want to damage it with my file.
If the tool is hard, I do not want to damage my file.

With the 'basic' Oregon/etc. offset tool, I learned to tilt it to protect the cutter edges, when filing the depth gauges. Dual duty.

View attachment 884321


Philbert
Exactly what I do. Stand the gauge on end in the gullet to protect the tooth. Saves tooth and saves the gauge.
 
I think it's good for left-handed people, although there are probably too few of them to be profitable to produce for them
 
Speaking of left-handers ;-) Photos come from the Swedish Magnus Forum. Tutaj 30
 

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