Check this old boy out... Serial number dates it to, I think, 1974. Super dirty but seems like a gem underneath. Got it from a guy who found it in his crawlspace many years ago. No idea when it last ran, he (understandably) never used it since the chain cover is broken. The bar is retained but obviously, that's going to have to be replaced. With no kickback brake I won't use it for much other than show. Fuel lines hard as a rock, it's going to be a sort of long-term restoration project. Has good compression. It's a tiny saw, shockingly tiny for such a large bar. Homelite branded semi chisel still on it.
Snagged a Homelite Super EZ Automatic
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Nice saw in it's day. We used one and an XL12 to cut what firewood we burned back then. Used the EZ for some rough carpentry sawing, too.
They are snappy little saws. Really run great if you keep them in wood 12” or less. They’ll pull that 16” bar but not so hot when bar buried.
I have three counting their cousins the XL-1's which don't have the rubber on the handles, the manual oil pump and the decomp. Good for more than a wall hanger, I regularly use mine. A lot of them made, you should have no trouble finding a clutch cover for it. If the compression is up you will have quite a powerful little saw, in fact by today's standards still one of the best power to weight ratios in this displacement.
Their big advantage is the reed valve setup which contributes greatly to mid-range torque in this size of saw.
They have a deserved reputation for pulling out of their weight class.
Their big advantage is the reed valve setup which contributes greatly to mid-range torque in this size of saw.
They have a deserved reputation for pulling out of their weight class.
Leons is about the best place to get parts. I have two sez's myself that are restored. One is a west coast.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...per_EZ_Automatic,_Super_XL-Mini_Chainsaw.html
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...per_EZ_Automatic,_Super_XL-Mini_Chainsaw.html
If you have to do work on the ignition there are two types so make sure you get the right ones.
HDC carb, if you have to rebuild it don't use compressed air and get the check valve (separate from the kit.) And change it while you are in there, trust me it will need it or it won't run right and while it will run you won't be able to tune it and it keep the tune. Those HDC carbs are touchy to rebuild and very touchy to tune, width of a screwdriver blade turn when you get close.
HDC carb, if you have to rebuild it don't use compressed air and get the check valve (separate from the kit.) And change it while you are in there, trust me it will need it or it won't run right and while it will run you won't be able to tune it and it keep the tune. Those HDC carbs are touchy to rebuild and very touchy to tune, width of a screwdriver blade turn when you get close.
Here's a link to Leon's vids on the EZ, best to take a look at a few and easier than having someone explain ways to do things on the saw.
https://www.youtube.com/user/ChevroletC101/search?query=super ez
https://www.youtube.com/user/ChevroletC101/search?query=super ez
Should clean up nicely. Congrats on the find. I picked up a super clean one last year but haven’t run it much yet.
Leon's the man, great videos and a wealth of knowledge. Also he's not trying to make a fortune off parts. Carb is a pain to remove and install. As said above two different ignitions, the gas and oil caps have duck bill valves that turn to goo.
I have switched mine over to rim/drum and put .325 rims on them. I still need to pick up a couple of bars for them. New fuel lines, points, condenser's, Carb rebuild, new pull ropes. fuel filter, oil lines, spark plugs, air filters, seals, rebuilt fuel/oil caps, replaced isolation rubber bushings. Added bucking spikes, converted both from S type clutch to spring/shoe type and replaced the mufflers with the down throw so it's not throwing exhaust/noise backwards, installed spark arrestor screens so they are legal in National/State forest.
These saw's have a unique sound to them when they run.
These saw's have a unique sound to them when they run.
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Looking at the pics of the saw, I don't believe that saw has that many hours on it. I'm betting it just wasn't treated and stored very well. The front and rear handles don't show signs of much use.
When I got mine they did not have the flat plate, I ordered them and put them on but later switched them over to the other style clutch. I honestly don't know if they really need them or not since most outboard saws don't have it anyway. I believe it is just to try to keep debris out of there and where it doesn't seal it off stuff can still get in there and it would just help to trap stuff in there IMO.
Ebay is where I got my backup cover, they seem to go for around $20-25 in good shape, you will also need the chain guides #43 and #44 in Jasons diagram, they are different from each other.
EDIT: I can see the outside chain guide in your pic but I cannot see the inside chain guide so I'm not sure if it's there or not. If you notice the front clutch/bar cover nut in your pics is the proper nut the one towards the back is the wrong one and should not be used.
When you go to buy a clutch cover LOOK CLOSELY at it in the pics, there are at least 8 listed on ebay right now BUT you will notice where people lots their WASHERED bar nuts or WIDER than a standard nut and just put on a plain nut, it chew's into the cover or cracks it so look closely before buying (cheaper isn't always better).
Here's an example of what to stay away from, https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOMELITE-S...201104?hash=item262a1b7a50:g:RQ0AAOSwHSxdr0zu You can see where they used a standard width nut and over tightened it, you can see where it chewed into the cover and also split it at the front.
If I was going to try to buy one of the one's listed right now it would be this one, https://www.ebay.com/itm/HomeLite-S...577497?hash=item260e0e54d9:g:6hoAAOSwEJ1cHTTh no cracks or damage that I can see and it hasn't had the wrong nuts put on since there are no chew marks.
I don't know if your saw has the metal air filter cover or not but if you have the plastic one I recommend getting a metal one and when you do put it on don't over tighten it, snug it is all it needs since you will bend the inner bracket.
Edit: I just looked at the pics of your saw, you have the metal air filter cover already.
Your recoil cover possibly has a crack in it at the bottom just in front of the screw for the dust guard.
Here's an example of what to stay away from, https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOMELITE-S...201104?hash=item262a1b7a50:g:RQ0AAOSwHSxdr0zu You can see where they used a standard width nut and over tightened it, you can see where it chewed into the cover and also split it at the front.
If I was going to try to buy one of the one's listed right now it would be this one, https://www.ebay.com/itm/HomeLite-S...577497?hash=item260e0e54d9:g:6hoAAOSwEJ1cHTTh no cracks or damage that I can see and it hasn't had the wrong nuts put on since there are no chew marks.
I don't know if your saw has the metal air filter cover or not but if you have the plastic one I recommend getting a metal one and when you do put it on don't over tighten it, snug it is all it needs since you will bend the inner bracket.
Edit: I just looked at the pics of your saw, you have the metal air filter cover already.
Your recoil cover possibly has a crack in it at the bottom just in front of the screw for the dust guard.
Here's the SEZ's bigger brother. I should have been arrested for stealing for what I paid for this one. I don't believe this one has more than one or two hours total on it. Piston and Cylinder are pristine with no carbon build up and almost no saw dust/dirt or oil buildup on the outside. The bar (stashed here somewhere) had no wear at all on it and the chain looked like new.
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Those covers on the clutch in most cases are for holding the shoes in on the style that have a spring around it. But on the S style I'd have to agree the only purpose I see is to keep out dirt.
