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If you follow R Squirrel's advice and go to the nursery, that should give a few good leads.

Since about 2/3s of those guys don't know about the structural weaknesses, and other tree related idiosyncrisis, bring back the list to this forum and let the guys and gals on here do a genus cleansing for you.
 
Stay away from over planted species too. If you drive down the road and every fifth tree you see is one you are thinking of, pick something else.
In my area, honeylocust, green ash, norway maple, and linden, top the list of overplanted weeds.
When you think you have a winner, find one growing that has reached a mature size, so you can see what you'll have some day. Go to the planting site and look up, is there room for your tree, or are there power lines?
Consider how messy the tree is too, can you deal with nut hulls or seeds in your gutters?
 
Since your site is sandy and full sun, I would suggest a drought tolerant tree.

Kentucky Coffee Tree adapts well.
 
How long do you plan on living at the property? If less then 20 years then most trees planted will not be big before you move.

An 8 foot tree that putss on 1 ft/yr on average will be 28 ft tall when you sell.
 
JPS,
Let's not make it some one elses proplem if it is the wrong tree. Don't you hate having to take down trees that are squeezed into a site?
 
I'm just trying to put some perspective into the shade tree discussion.

It dawned on me that we never talk about the fourth dimention when this comse up, except for my frequent referance to some study done somewher that sh0owed that smaller trees recover and overtake larger caliper trees.

I for one do not believe that most faster growing trees are "wrong" in landscape locations. Silver maple and storm damage is a red herring.

Get a tree you like, have it proffesionaly installed and managed. It takes 25-40 years for a tree to reach structural maturity.
 
And the professionally installed is another topic. Their are some "professioinals" I wouldn't let dig a hole let along install a $300 tree.
 

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