Search results

If the fastener is in that poor of shape I'd rather not reuse it, hence not even messing around with penetrating lube or the time required after that. Shearing it off is the fastest method, not always the easiest but I've learned to just not **** around. Sometimes though, the satisfaction of...

Quite often, it's easier to sheer off those bolts than to try and back them off exposed threads. Yes, quite a bit of leverage may be required but it's simple and fast. Use a six point impact socket. I grabbed a 3/4" drive breaker bar, I think 40" in length along with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter just...

Almost looks spring loaded to maintain chain tension. Can't imagine it carries oil worth a hoot.

My mother grew up in Burnsville and we used to make lefse, rosettes, and krumkaka every christmas. I realize those last two are probably spelled wrong. We still have lefse but seems her and her mother always bring up lutefisk and I've heard them say exactly what you said. Maybe some day I'll...

To be fair, most of the boxelder I've cut up on my property was because it was dead or down and seemed pretty poor. The one I cut down this past fall for a guy was because it was competing with some evergreens he had planted. As stated, I didn't think it was boxelder until I noticed the red in...

I do know that but always thought it was a "soft" maple. This particular tree I cut down seems really decent and I'll find out next fall. Most of the boxelder I've come across was rather obvious, this one not so much.

It's not.

It's not either one, Chinese and Slippery aren't the same.

Were the chips kind of a yellow color? In my experience, mulberry has yellow tint to it when cut fresh and turns pretty dark after being exposed. Looks like it could be unless that's fresh cut.

I was going to say Linden, why I put in the work/time to split some to sell as campfire wood I don't know. I suppose because it beat just letting it lay around. I also mistook a boxelder for a hackberry last fall, bark sure looked like hackberry and there was very, very little red in it. Split...

I think you would enjoy a 261/194T combo a whole lot. I love my 193 and always grab it over the 171. It's ridiculous the tanks I've ran through that saw since I got it, and at half the cost of a 201 it's pretty comforting.

As far as I know, all rear axles the outer bearings ride in the same oil that's in your rear diff. It gets sloshed around in there as long as it doesn't have a leak. A lot of GM guys with 14 bolts will drive the passenger side up on a 2x4 to over fill them just a little. Just make sure the...

Good mechanics are hard to find now days. I worked for one but he didn't know how to keep a clean shop and that was why I left. There have been good suggestions here, if equipped with a sway bar I would definitely take a look at the end links, they're usually inexpensive to replace as well...

Hard to diagnose over the internet. My favorite thing to hear as a mechanic was that something was making a clunking sound. KYB Monomax or Bilstein will provide the best ride control, both will probably last a decade.

I forgot to add the funny part, I've never used the primer bulb before starting the saw. It's entirely unnecessary. :laugh:

Funny thing, my 193 is the only saw with a primer bulb and it starts within the second pull every time, funny thing.

I'm more afraid of the smaller saws, I think people get complacent with them. I've had my 661 kick back while stumping and the bar is buried but I don't know that it's ever "scared" me. I think with the big saws every second you hold them you're reminding yourself of how dangerous they can be...

Give 'er a twist.

I like cowhide leathers for handling wood, especially splits. I like the nitrile dipped for running saws and when they wear out, they work as insulation under a pair of leathers if need be. Kinco cowhides to be specific. I do wear other gloves, usually because they're free but kinco's and...

I run 3/8 on my 261, primarily 16" but it'll handle a 20" setup just fine. I do miss how smooth the .325 was.