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Finally got back to pw. I turned pw on side so that unloader tube faced upward. Then squirted PBlaster in tube and let sit for a few days. I loosened nut and backed screw out a half turn (adjustment screw is Allen head), re-tightened nut. It starts easily and unloads now. Which variable fixed...

I hope to mess with it tomorrow and I'll report back.

Yes, wand trigger is open - load happens anyway.

And pw forum threads are few and far between.

Neighbor brought me a TB PW to fix. I know nothing about these pumps. Engine is Briggs 11P702 dated 2013. I can't find a model # on PW. I first disassembled and cleaned carb in the USC but it looked good inside. Doubt I needed to do it. Symptoms - Engine starts and runs for 1 sec. Then rope is...

Sorry. Those bars are gone.

A saw is really known by it's powerhead name and/or model #. Eg: Poulan 2150 is the saw...it can wear a 14", 16" or 18" bar. Like Philbert says, the effective bar length is measured case to bar tip. So, a 16" bar measures 18-19" when off the saw. A cringing and swooning scenario...."My Stihl...

Maybe wrapping teflon tape around that elbow will lessen leakage - esp if the pickup hose and/or the pump hose are wallowed out some.

The straight nipple is the fuel line. Plug the bent purge return nipple.

Check tank vent like Scott says. If not that, you could replace all pickup and pump parts - it'd probably still leak. When done, loosen oil cap and re-tighten. Set on a towel.

No duckbill in the carb. The metering diaphragm has a button that pushes on the lever. Duckbill - 1 in the fuel cap to vent tank, 1 in the oiler check valve behind the clutch - that goes bad and really tedious to fix. That part is NLA. Plug is CJ7Y or BPM7A.

Needle lever set too high? Needle seat bad? Reed valve too open? Horizontal cyl is pretty common is older saws. The 2000 is from the 1980s.

They are Chinese Communists - lying is no problem to reach the party's goals.

I was given this non-runner Craftsman 358350981 / 5020AV. 20" .325 78DL. I got it running and tested it today - bucking and noodling some maple. I was impressed even with the crappy shark fin chain. It's missing brake guts in the clutch cover and AF cover. I look to find the brake parts and they...

I've seen a lot of the Greek's parts with $100 shipping.

That Jred 370 looks too dayum complicated for gasketitating.

The 3.4 Timber Bear, Eager Beaver, Silver Eagle, ProMac is worth it.

That's the tank vent - duckbill valve failed. A new cap is ~$6. Or get a green duckbill and see if you can get it seated - I never had much luck.

Chris's PTO crank pic solves clutch mystery...sprocket on 1 level, then clutch on lower level.

It's been years, but I think the clutch is smooth bore and has a dust plate and nut cinching it on the crank. Thrust washer behind sprocket. When you torque nut, I'm not sure how it doesn't compress sprocket, so that it doesn't turn. Maybe crank has a shoulder that sprocket bearing rides on. Or...