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I have to agree; as long as the metal junction wasn't wet all the time I doubt there would be enough corrosion to ever cause a problem. But I also agree that an initial wrap of glass wouldn't hurt anything and would be good insurance.

I would disagree with that. A good friend of ours bought a 2004 EC/SB with the 6.0 the year after we got our DMax. Empty, they usually got pretty close (though usually a little lower) to ours, but loaded was a whole different story. We both pulled horse trailers on a ~600 mile round trip once...

My 2003 DMax EC/SB has 80,000+ miles and I've been a happy camper with it. Other than the intermediate shaft fix under warranty, and a leaking axle seal under warranty, I haven't had to do anything to it but fuel filters and oil/oil filters. I added a secondary fuel filter early on-has better...

Why don't you have it in your shop yet??

No worries...

Yes I realize that. That's why I prefaced my comment with saying that's what non-chainsawers call what he's describing.

What you're describing is what many non-chainsawers call kickback (chainsaw operators obviously have another use of that term) and it's common in pretty much any hand-started engine. A friend of Dad's had an old Farmall tractor (F-20 I believe, but could be wrong) that nearly broke my arm once...

I got an mid 70's Craftsman table saw last year for $35. Has cast table, 2 extensions, fence, gauge, etc., but was missing the motor. Figured I got a pretty decent deal even without the motor. Of course I knew Dad had a 1.5 horse motor laying around looking for something to do so I put it to use.

It's a particular concern with woods like cedar and pine that have a lot of oils and pitch in them. The green wood doesn't burn as hot, so the oils just vaporize rather than combust and can begin depositing on the inside of the chimney faster.

:agree2: Mark has it exactly correct. I wanted to switch my Explorer (Poulan 25 analog) to 3/8 for the same reason, but low profile was the closest I could get. I still changed it, but I don't think there's any advantage to 3/8 LP over 1/4 other than maybe it's slightly more available.

Dan, are you putting down Frankensaws??? I don't think any of my 920 series saws are completely original top to bottom. Of course, with Homelite it's not always easy to tell what is original. Doesn't much matter to me-they all cut just fine no matter what parts they're made from. Are you...

Not sure what you're talking about by spring post, but I've got two 360's in pieces in a box at home. I'd imagine I have what you need.

I'd venture to say there isn't likely a 900 series Homelite that's sold on Ebay in the last couple years I haven't looked at (and probably bid on better than half of them). I've seen some that I wouldn't give 10 bucks for go for 200 and have ended up with a few that I figured would go for 200...

Other than my little Sears, my SEZ is the lightest saw I own...and probably the quietest. :) I have thought about throwing .325 NK on mine, but never have done it. Maybe one of these days I'll get around to it.

Actually you use tangent (opposite over adjacent), not sine or cosine. Just remember SOH-CAH-TOA. At any rate, I agree with what you're saying about using trig for the measurement. Accurate angles and a calculator and you're golden-but just a small error in the angle can get things messed...

That's the way I was taught to do it in an environmental science class I took once upon a time (don't remember why they had us out measuring tree heights). The trouble is having an accurate way to measure the angle-unless you already have something to do that. With an accurate angle measure...

You can do it by using a little trigonometry (standing a known distance away, find the angle to the top, then calculate the height of the tree), but that's not always the simplest way. A quick and dirty method I've used is to strap a board of known length to the tree, then take a picture...

My brush has 1/4" NPT pipe threads on it-I don't know if that's what you mean by drainage rod or not. I tie a small rope onto the top of the brush that I lower along with it when brushing just in case I ever do accidentally unscrew it from the rod.

I call this phenomenom "4-wheel drive SUV syndrome". On slick roads, people driving 4-wheel drive SUV's tend to be the first ones to get themselves in trouble because they have the feeling of invicibility and drive like it. Does this mean no one should drive 4-wheel drive vehicles on slick...

You're likely to get flamed for your opinion, but I agree with it-at least to a certain extent. I have the same feeling about all the safety equipment on the new saws. People think I'm stupid for running my old Homelites with no chain brakes, but that's what I learned on, am used to it, and I...